Cougar thru-frame slide

[gregm2k]

Hey all,
The main slide (thru-frame gear driven) on our 17 Cougar 327RLK is out of whack. We first noticed that it is very slow to extend/retract and now while treating the seals I noticed the under fabric is tearing (img1) and the rear side of the slide appears to be sagging (img2) when the slide is closed.
I don't know if these are related (sagging on the left = tearing on the right?) but I suspect the slide is out of alignment somehow. I watched the Lippert YouTube videos but don't find them much help.
Hope that one of you give me some ideas/pointers.
--Greg

[sourdough]

That tear doesn't look like anything I've seen caused by a wear bar, roller etc. from sliding back and forth. Looks almost like something literally tore a hole in it?? Anything happen under there that might have caused that or the anomaly with the slide?

[gregm2k]

Sourdough - Thanks. I really don't think so...'normal' usage. There is also a smaller tear in the fabric about the middle of the slide (see img here).

[sourdough]

Just guessing out of the blue but is there something under the slide cutting/tearing that darco under there when the slide comes inside maybe?? They sure look like some sort of specific wear/pressure points.

[bsmith0404]

That looks like a rock or something may have been under the slide at one point. Have seen it tear them and also tear the flooring inside. As for the decals not lining up, that’s nothing new.

I know you’re conditioning your seals, do you also use a dry lube on the rack? That makes a big difference and could be why your slides are slowing down.

[bobbecky]

This is copied from the Lippert Master Owners Manual-Towable:

The Lippert Slide-out System has been static tested to over 4,000 continuous cycles without any noticeable wear to rotating or sliding parts. It is recommended that when operating in harsh environments (road salt, ice build up, etc.) the moving parts be kept clean. They can be washed with mild soap and water. No grease or lubrication is necessary and in some situations may be detrimental to the environment and long term dependability of the system.

This means that no lubrication of the rack or slide tubes is needed. This applies to both the electric and the hydraulic through frame slide mechanisms. Lubrication can be done with a little oil on the bearings of the gear packs, but is not necessary because the shafts ride in bronze bushings. This is the link for this manual: https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0001573.pdf

[bsmith0404]

That’s what they say, but I’ve found that when they start to get slow or jerky, that cleaning and dry lube improves them. IMO, anytime you have metal on metal, keeping things clean and lubed is never a bad thing.

[ChuckS]

I would be looking close from the inside up under that slide out with a bright light to see if there is a rock or something.. the Slide out also looks to be out of adjustment vertically and needs to be checked..

If you have some basic skill sets you can do all this yourself.. including adjusting the vertical height on that slideout if needed...

The torn Darco can be reppaired by using UHMW strips attached over the damaged Darco area..

DO NOT try and use ANY tape or you will just make the issue 100 times worse...

The slowing down can be caused by the slide dragging because its out of adjustment, Dirty gear packs ( two for thru the frame ) slide, and worn wear tabs or very dry and dirty slide guide bar to frame thru point for guide bar

Seal conditioners are nothing more than snake oil... I only use baby powder on the seals .. interior and exterior...

I also apply dry graphite spray lube to my guide bars where they meet with the 3 wear tabs and use dry silicone spray on the gear packs

Lippert 4000 cycle statement and not to apply any lubricant is their opinion... Eight years of use on my 3 hydraulic slides I DO lube them a few times a year and my slides move smooth and fast.

If you want to know how to fix that torn Darco I have a video on my Youtube channel that will give you a good overview of how I repaired one of mine that tore the Darco..

No matter what you do with these slide outs with Darco on the bottom sooner or later one is going to wear the Darco

NOTE - I would also look closely at the edge of that slide out where the drip strip is at on the outside wall and look at the flooring edge for any evidence of a swollen floor or leaking drip strip

[ChuckS]

Here is an couple of images from a PDF i wrote detailing my repair.. The Darco you see torn happened after 7 years of use... The repair was made early last April.. Today the repair looks as good as the day installed.. The slide moves silky smooth and the rest of the Darco on the bottom is perfect..

Most likely a rock or something got under my slide out - never did find out what it was and I even raised the bottom of the slide and looked up underneath from outside and saw nothing that would have caused the damage to occur..

[gregm2k]

All - thanks for the thoughts and comments. I do try to treat the seals on all the slides and did not see these problems last summer.

- Will first try to get up under the inner edge to see what (if anything) is under there.

- back to YouTube to research vertical adjustments.

- Chuck - can you point me to your channel so I can see how you repaired yours darco. Def wanna get this patched before I have bigger problems. Did you consider using the sleds (Duo, RecPro)?

best regards...Greg

[ChuckS]

IMO the Recpro skis are over priced junk. They work well for some folks but I prefer a permanent repair and with the UHMW 0.125 thick material it will outlast anything else on the entire fifth wheel..

From my YouTube Channel...

https://youtu.be/EtgzzhXodlk

[JBM3M]

I was having trouble with one slide 'sticking' and 'tipping' funny and not seeming correct. I was just slightly off of level to the side that the slide is on. So maybe double check that, but the fabric does look like something grabbed it. Could have come from the inside even.