Weight Distribution with Sway Control

[Weldon]

I currently have a HF WDH and 2 of their sway control bars. I clean the "brake" in the sway control bars every 3rd or 4th trip to remove the dust. I haven't really had a problem with the hitch or with sway, although I tighten the bars pretty good before towing.

It has been suggested to me that my WDH is "Chinese junk" that does not give me a "true towing" experience and that I need to upgrade. This person was trying to help me and keep my family safe, which is extremely appreciated. I do not mean to belittle the advice. This is my first WDH, so I want to get opinions from others. Be gentle...I said this was my first.

Since I tow fragile cargo (wife & 2 kids), anything that makes us safer and towing easier, I'm all for it. However, there are so many options for a TT WDH with Sway, I don't know where to start. I normally go for a middle-of-the-road option...I'm not a "least expensive I can get" kind of guy, nor am I a "money is no option" kinda guy. I normally buy whatever model includes the options I feel are important.

WDH I have:
https://www.harborfreight.com/10000-...tem-67649.html

Sway Control (x2) I have:
https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...kit-96462.html

Any suggestions on models, brands, or options that must be included? Anything I need to stay away from?

Thanks for the input.

[Sarge2]

I am upgrading from a Curt round bar with friction sway control to an Equal i zer brand with integrated sway control.

I had thought about using two friction sway bars but have decided not to do that. But that's my thoughts...

be careful about making the WDH chains too tight.. as I understand it, it unloads the rear tires and shifts more weight to the front...hence why you try to get the front and rear measurements as close to normal ride height as possible while trying to keep the truck and trailer level... but as a relative newbie, someone here will have a better grasp on the in's and out's of WDH set ups.. as for HF WDH I'm not experienced with those.

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by Sarge2

I am upgrading from a Curt round bar with friction sway control to an Equal i zer brand with integrated sway control.

I had thought about using two friction sway bars but have decided not to do that. But that's my thoughts...

be careful about making the WDH chains too tight.. as I understand it, it unloads the rear tires and shifts more weight to the front...hence why you try to get the front and rear measurements as close to normal ride height as possible while trying to keep the truck and trailer level... but as a relative newbie, someone here will have a better grasp on the in's and out's of WDH set ups.. as for HF WDH I'm not experienced with those.

Sending PM

[Weldon]

This is one that I was thinking of. Any feedback? Curt 17500

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...BoCj1cQAvD_BwE

[chuckster57]

IMO you can’t beat the Equilizer E4 with integrated sway. I have always had a fiver so I don’t have any first hand towing experience. But I do know every customer that I have installed it for has said it is the best bang for the buck.

[JRTJH]

Weldon,

Let's change the "Chinese junk" to a more "politically correct term"... The Harbor Freight hitch is a "bare bones, entry level, basic hitch with no advanced features and no sway control. The Harbor Freight "brake shoe type sway control" is a bare bones, entry level, basic sway control system with no advanced features and only rudimentary ability to control sway.....

OK, with that out of the way, your system is not "junk" any more than a Model T was "junk" when compared to today's self driving cars....

What you've got is limited in its ability to do more than "barely basic functions"...

I use a CURT fifth wheel hitch, so I'm not "dissing CURT" when I suggest this:

Take a look at the box right under the photos on the etrailer link that you posted. You'll see in that box, "Is it right for you" Yes, if you and No, if you. Take a look at that "NO" column before you settle on a CURT sway control hitch....

I agree with Chuck, before you spend your money, check out the Equalizer E4 hitch system. It costs a bit more, but.....

Your current HF hitch is a "basic hitch with no frills". It's a perfectly good hitch for some people who don't need a lot of quality or a lot of "performance" from their hitch. For them, it's great at doing what it does. But, when you get to the "outer fringes" and need a hitch that can perform in the "demanding environment of towing a heavy travel trailer", I think what you've seen and experienced with the Harbor Freight hitch/sway control is essentially that "You get what you pay for"...

[JDDilly]

I also recommend the Equalizer.

[cavie]

Pluse 4 on the Equilzer. Anything Curt is Chinees entry-level. Advanced Auto Parts replaced Reese with Curt.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by cavie

Pluse 4 on the Equilzer. Anything Curt is Chinees entry-level. Advanced Auto Parts replaced Reese with Curt.

Attachment 32841

Actually if I read right Curt makes stuff in the USA and Philippines.

https://www.curtmfg.com/news/curt-gr...mily-of-brands

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Weldon,

Let's change the "Chinese junk" to a more "politically correct term"... The Harbor Freight hitch is a "bare bones, entry level, basic hitch with no advanced features and no sway control. The Harbor Freight "brake shoe type sway control" is a bare bones, entry level, basic sway control system with no advanced features and only rudimentary ability to control sway.....

OK, with that out of the way, your system is not "junk" any more than a Model T was "junk" when compared to today's self driving cars....

What you've got is limited in its ability to do more than "barely basic functions"...

I use a CURT fifth wheel hitch, so I'm not "dissing CURT" when I suggest this:

Take a look at the box right under the photos on the etrailer link that you posted. You'll see in that box, "Is it right for you" Yes, if you and No, if you. Take a look at that "NO" column before you settle on a CURT sway control hitch....

I agree with Chuck, before you spend your money, check out the Equalizer E4 hitch system. It costs a bit more, but.....

Your current HF hitch is a "basic hitch with no frills". It's a perfectly good hitch for some people who don't need a lot of quality or a lot of "performance" from their hitch. For them, it's great at doing what it does. But, when you get to the "outer fringes" and need a hitch that can perform in the "demanding environment of towing a heavy travel trailer", I think what you've seen and experienced with the Harbor Freight hitch/sway control is essentially that "You get what you pay for"...

Im going to take everyones experience to my benefit. I dont know what i dont know, so i appreciate your feedback. As for being politically correct, no promises. :-)

Looks like the poll is equalizer E4 = 4, everything else zero. I will add the current WDH to my growing Craigslist add that I will get to one day.

[markcee]

Another vote for Equal-i-zer 4 point.

When purchasing I would recommend using their web tool to determine correct sizing of the hitch and spring bars:

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/find-your-hitch-size

The GVWR on your trailer is 7200 lbs. Don't assume you will need an 8K hitch and call it good. You will likely need at least a 10K. Unless you have scaled for tongue weight and have an exact number to enter I would use the standard 13% of GVWR guideline when you use the calculator.

[dutchmensport]

My last travel trailer was a Keystone Outback, that rang in at 35.5 feet long. My tow vehicle was (is) a 1 ton diesel, long bed, crew cab, dually. The trailer before that was a Keystone Springdale that came in at 31.5 feet. I used a Reese WDH and a friction sway bar that attached separate. It was the type that had the chains attached to the bars. It worked perfectly fine on the Springdale and I used it for over 10 years on 2 different trailers.

Then I got the Outback and it weighed in a lot heavier. About the second trip out, I realized the Reese hitch head was bending. The weight of the new trailer was just too much, or the metal in the hitch was too fatigued? I'm not sure which.

I then purchased an Equal-i-zer 4 point WDH. It did not require the separate sway bar, and after hitching and unhitching a few times, I realized I really like the Equal-i-zer a LOT more than the Reese. I never experienced sway with either trailer with either hitch. I attribute most of that to a great tow vehicle.

I now have a fifth wheel and I gave the Equal-i-zer to a friend to use with his new camper. He's still using it, more than 2 years later.

If I were to do it again, I'd get another Equal-i-zer. It's not the cheapest, but for the price, I think it's the best. Those types that insert the bars from the bottom, you have to lift them up and snap them onto the hitch head, that's such a pain. The Equal-i-zer, just slip the end of the shaft into the slot and put a pin in it. Done.

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Actually if I read right Curt makes stuff in the USA and Philippines.

https://www.curtmfg.com/news/curt-gr...mily-of-brands

I read somewhere where some of their parts are imported then ASSEMBLED in the states. Regardless, this time I'm going up a level to the Equalizer

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

If I were to do it again, I'd get another Equal-i-zer. It's not the cheapest, but for the price, I think it's the best. Those types that insert the bars from the bottom, you have to lift them up and snap them onto the hitch head, that's such a pain. The Equal-i-zer, just slip the end of the shaft into the slot and put a pin in it. Done.

With 2 kids under 10, I appreciate easy peasy more and more every single day. I'm not afraid to work hard, but I'm also not opposed to spending 20% more for safety and ease of use.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Weldon

I read somewhere where some of their parts are imported then ASSEMBLED in the states. Regardless, this time I'm going up a level to the Equalizer

A LOT has changed with CURT Hitch Company in the last couple of years. Lippert announced that they bought CURT on Dec 19, 2019. Before that, CURT had some "transitional issues". When I bought my CURT equipment, it was advertised as "manufactured in the USA". Then, sometime around 2014 or 2015, they changed (without a public announcement) to read "Assembled in the USA". I think they were having budget issues and outsourced some of their faster moving parts to an overseas location, trying to keep the business afloat.

Then in December, 2019, Lippert bought the company for $340 million. I'd suspect that much of the parts are now outsourced overseas to the cheapest source, much like the rest of Lippert's products. I've noticed the "quality appearance" seems to have slipped with CURT. What used to be a "high quality, durable paint finish" now seems to scratch much sooner than on older hitches. Who knows what else is no longer "up to CURT standards" ... My guess would be that it's all assembled where the labor is cheapest and Lippert can make the most profit...

https://www.curtmfg.com/news/lippert...-of-curt-group

[sourdough]

Weldon I've used the type of wdh you have now with the add on anti sway bars. Never could tell they did anything for sway but did found out those chains could/would make the rear of my truck so light the tires would just spin going over a hump in the street. Not trying to be ugly or anything but it was plain useless....and dangerous in winds/crosswinds.

I used the Equalizer 4 point for years and you can't beat them IMO; particularly considering how well they work vs how much they cost. I wouldn't even look or worry about another type/brand of hitch. The Equalizer is a proven, extremely popular, reliable and effective hitch. I highly recommend it.

When you order the Equalizer you need to "size" it for your trailer/load. Your trailer has a 7510lb. gvw. At 13% your tongue weight would be 976 lbs. IMO that's cutting it pretty close for 1000lb. bars. If it were me I would go with 1200lb. bars on the Equalizer. Some worry about a stiffer ride but I never had that and it gives you a little cushion on those bars as far as weight. I just don't like "marginal" in anything.

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Weldon I've used the type of wdh you have now with the add on anti sway bars. Never could tell they did anything for sway but did found out those chains could/would make the rear of my truck so light the tires would just spin going over a hump in the street. Not trying to be ugly or anything but it was plain useless....and dangerous in winds/crosswinds.

Had someone PM me and said the same about the rear end. I haven't noticed but again, I don't know what i dont know. Appreciate the help. I will take your advice about the larger TW. Was gonna pull the trigger on the 10k tonight but will wait until the AM and grab the bigger one.

How do y'all install these? My torque doesn't go anywhere near the required 265 lb (or whatever it was with the HF WDH) and had to ask a local mechanic to secure for me. Is that what you do, or do you have a torque that goes that high?

[chuckster57]

I use an air impact gun rated at 700 lb/ft. If you know the height of the coupler with the trailer sitting level, and place with air tools should be able to set the hitch up in about 20 minutes.

If you were close by, I would do it in my driveway.

[Bill-2020]

Originally Posted by Weldon

This is one that I was thinking of. Any feedback? Curt 17500

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...BoCj1cQAvD_BwE

Jason,
T
hat's what I have, the Curt WDH. No issues in two years travels (and we camp year round = lots of miles). Considering how the Curt brand is looked upon here, I'll just...

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Bill-2020

Jason,
T
hat's what I have, the Curt WDH. No issues in two years travels (and we camp year round = lots of miles). Considering how the Curt brand is looked upon here, I'll just...

I have nothing bad to say about the Curt, I have installed a few.