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Old 10-20-2020, 09:01 AM   #1
Sherwolfe
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Slide Starts and Stops

So our camping partners have a 28RLSWE and recently the slide out starts and stops. At times it will start moving then stop after 4 or 5 inches. Domes longer sometimes shorter. Going in or out same issue. I have heard the Buss Fuse click when it stops, then click again and it will move again. We’ve checked the batteries, 12.9 volts. I cleaned the battery connections, cleaned some rust off the power wire to the slide and it started working fine until our next trip. Now not only haas the slide started this again but now even his tongue jack is doing it. This happens regardless if just on batteries or when connected to shore power. Any suggestions on a solution to this issue?
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Old 10-20-2020, 09:31 AM   #2
flybouy
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So how old is this camper and how old is the battery? When was the battery voltage checked? While plugged into shore power? Sounds like it could be the battery or the 12v dc circuit breaker could be weak.
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Old 10-20-2020, 10:11 AM   #3
Sherwolfe
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Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
So how old is this camper and how old is the battery? When was the battery voltage checked? While plugged into shore power? Sounds like it could be the battery or the 12v dc circuit breaker could be weak.
Trailer is a 2017. Voltage when checked is 12.9 and are original batteries.
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Old 10-20-2020, 10:19 AM   #4
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If the slide AND the tongue jack are stopping "midstream" it's a voltage issue as both have separate motors and likely separate wiring from the battery to the motor. So, focus on VOLTAGE not on MECHANICALS.....

My guess: Bad battery that won't accept a "full charge" because of a bad cell.
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Old 10-20-2020, 10:47 AM   #5
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OK, so then even though the batteries are showing 12.9 volts this might not indicate a full charge?
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Old 10-20-2020, 11:05 AM   #6
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OK, so then even though the batteries are showing 12.9 volts this might not indicate a full charge?
This is why I asked how/when the voltage was tested. If you take a voltage reading of the battery while on shore power then you will be reading the charger induced voltage as it charges the battery. If you take a voltage reading rio9ght after disconnecting from shore power you could be reading a "top charge".

The battery is over 3 years old and who knows the history. If it's been discharged below 50 % repeatedly it's most likely shot. Take the battery out and have it load tested at a l;ocal auto parts store that sells batteries. That's usually done as a free service to the customer.
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Old 10-20-2020, 11:18 AM   #7
Sherwolfe
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Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
This is why I asked how/when the voltage was tested. If you take a voltage reading of the battery while on shore power then you will be reading the charger induced voltage as it charges the battery. If you take a voltage reading rio9ght after disconnecting from shore power you could be reading a "top charge".

The battery is over 3 years old and who knows the history. If it's been discharged below 50 % repeatedly it's most likely shot. Take the battery out and have it load tested at a l;ocal auto parts store that sells batteries. That's usually done as a free service to the customer.
I have checked the voltage even before plugging into shore power, still showed a low of only 12.4 volts. Doing the load test should help clear up a weak or bad cell.
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Old 10-20-2020, 12:50 PM   #8
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12.4 volts would be about a 75% charge. Sounds like you need to check the battery.
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Old 10-20-2020, 12:56 PM   #9
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12.4 volts would be about a 75% charge. Sounds like you need to check the battery.
Yup, plan on getting a load test. Hopefully this will correct the issue.
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Old 10-20-2020, 01:44 PM   #10
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Yup, plan on getting a load test. Hopefully this will correct the issue.
Is there more than 1 battery? I've seen where you've referenced the plural batteries. If there are two batteries then both need to be test and if one battery is defective then both batteries need to be replaced with identical units. In a 2 battery bank an old battery will "cannibalize" a new battery reducing it's performance and causing it to fail prematurely.
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Old 10-20-2020, 02:33 PM   #11
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Is there more than 1 battery? I've seen where you've referenced the plural batteries. If there are two batteries then both need to be test and if one battery is defective then both batteries need to be replaced with identical units. In a 2 battery bank an old battery will "cannibalize" a new battery reducing it's performance and causing it to fail prematurely.
Yews, two batteries and I have always understood if one goes bad, best practice is to replace both, cuz the other will ultimately fail due to the bad one working the good one so hard. Thanks for the reminder.
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Old 10-22-2020, 07:53 PM   #12
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So my Buddy replaces both batteries with new RV Deep Cycle and the problem is still happening. Slide moves about 2-4 inches and stops. Tongue Jack does the same thing. Again, we have cleaned the connections at the buss fuse, which we hear click off and on. Now what ?
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Old 10-22-2020, 08:00 PM   #13
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So my Buddy replaces both batteries with new RV Deep Cycle and the problem is still happening. Slide moves about 2-4 inches and stops. Tongue Jack does the same thing. Again, we have cleaned the connections at the buss fuse, which we hear click off and on. Now what ?
If you can hear that "click" then it's disconnecting and cooling down and connecting again. Replace it (them). You can pick them up at any auto parts store or online.https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Aut...29853966&psc=1
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Old 10-22-2020, 08:36 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
If you can hear that "click" then it's disconnecting and cooling down and connecting again. Replace it (them). You can pick them up at any auto parts store or online.https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Aut...29853966&psc=1
What we hear is click then the slide stops, then it clicks again and the slide will move again. So first click, stops, let go of slide button till second click, then slide will move again. I understand this to be the draw on the fuse is causing it to overheat and open. Then when it cools it will make connection again, so isn’t this buss fuse doing what it is suppose to do?
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Old 10-22-2020, 10:10 PM   #15
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Those auto reset breakers get weak over time and replacing them is the only solution. Also, running with weak batteries increases the amperage which also causes the breakers to open up sooner and that also shortens the life of the breakers.
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Old 10-22-2020, 10:27 PM   #16
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Those auto reset breakers get weak over time and replacing them is the only solution. Also, running with weak batteries increases the amperage which also causes the breakers to open up sooner and that also shortens the life of the breakers.
We will likely replace them as a process of elimination, thanks.
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Old 10-23-2020, 06:32 AM   #17
flybouy
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That will be a very inexpensive replacement and not a waste of time nor money. Those auto resetting breakers don't last forever. Look at it when you remove it as it will have the amperage rating stamped on it. Also note how it's mounted. It is directional as one post is for the battery and the other is for the load.
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Old 10-23-2020, 07:18 AM   #18
Sherwolfe
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So I’m curious, other than the obvious of a auto reset fuse, could we install a in line 30 amp fuse? This could eliminate the corrosion issue, albeit it would require replacing the fuse instead of the auto reset. However the in line fuse wouldn’t get weak or as easily corroded?
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Old 10-23-2020, 08:08 AM   #19
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So I’m curious, other than the obvious of a auto reset fuse, could we install a in line 30 amp fuse? This could eliminate the corrosion issue, albeit it would require replacing the fuse instead of the auto reset. However the in line fuse wouldn’t get weak or as easily corroded?
I'd guess that the mini-breakers, although they do corrode and/or fail occasionally, the reason manufacturers haven't gone to the "fuse solution" is because the failure rate for the mini-breaker doesn't justify the frustration level of carrying fuses and going out to replace it "10 times" as your friend would have had to do, every time that mini-breaker "clicked and the slide stopped"...

For me, replacing a 3 or 4 year old mini-breaker for $4 is still much preferred over carrying fuses and going to the tongue to replace it every time it blows. I don't think the "failure rate" or the "reliability of mini-breakers" is that much of an issue for most people.

I'd guess that once your friend replaces his, he won't have any more issues with that system until he trades the trailer for his "next greatest floorplan"...
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Old 10-23-2020, 08:23 AM   #20
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Thanks JRTJH, that makes sense. Funny you mention “Next New Floorplan” as they have been looking but need to get this one operational first.
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