Slide pulley plate ripped off wall

[Northofu1]

(In my best Maxwell Smart voice)
Would you believe I went in there to hang the drapes?
Lots of fun
I opened the kitchen slide, no issue, Then started to open dinette slide and ripped the plate off the wall at around the 12" mark. All the screws are out except two, they were sheared off flat. Nothing else is damaged. In the attached picture of the plywood plate, I have some room to reinstall the plate if I slide it right by 3/8". Is there a problem with that or should I dig out those two screws and attach a new plate?
TIA for any advice.

[JRTJH]

I would file/grind the existing broken screws down so they are flush with the plywood, move the current, undamaged pully block over about1/2" and reinstall it. You'll also need to readjust the cables as they will be "adjusted shorter" once you "extend the length by widening the pulley installation distance". The biggest concern would be making sure the cables still clear the guides where they transition from inside the trailer to outside the trailer. Those aluminum guides can wear easily and/or cut the cables if they are too far out of alignment.

My concern would be "WHY" the pulley block separated from the wall. One guess would be "stuck/sticky slide seals" another would be "damaged slide components, possibly jammed or bound so they can't move"... If it's stuck slide seals, pushing on both sides of the slide may help "get it unstuck" as someone activates the cable slide system switch... If it's jammed, damaged, locked mechanism, then you may risk "pulling the pulley block off the wall" again... So do some "Maxwell Smart sleuthing" to see if you can move the slide manually by pushing on it once you have the cable assembly reinstalled.

The slide box is supposed to "ride in the center of the opening, supported by the cables and resting on the slide guides/roller assemblies"... If it's crooked, jammed or bound, it won't move out easily and could cause even more damage. Be sure it's "free to move" before you push the switch the next time.....

[sourdough]

As John pointed out the why is as important, or more so, than how to fix. I once had a slide that I thought was going to rip the brackets off because it was binding up. Got to looking at all the seals and under the bottom the rubber seal had been turn off and rolled into a wad under the slide binding it up so check those seals all the way around and anything else that may be causing it undue stress on those brackets.

[Northofu1]

Ok.
I checked the slide seals, the sides and top look great, bottom looks a little distorted, but not bunched. Inside the trailer I measured the sides from the trim to the wall. Both bottoms are 24", top left is 24" top right is 23 1/4". Outside the slide looks even.

After re-evaluating the wood backer I decided to take it off by removing remaining screws. I used a drill to make a moat around the screws and turned them out with Vice grips quite easily. I am going to cut a new piece of wood to cover everything and try to find the same size screws at hardware store/ home depot?

On picture 3 above where the cables come out of the track / wiper bar, there is a screw hole there and I don't know what was there.

I am thinking I need to raise the slide up from outside to better inspect that seal. I definitely don't want to push the button before finding the source of binding, thanks guys for that gem.

My only other concern is that are the screws only holding that pulley assembly by the luan?
The odd thing is I have had the trailer home for almost 2 weeks and have been running the slides with no real issues, the first time they were jerky and sprayed the darco(?) with the WD40 with PTFE on both and they were moving nicely. Maybe inspecting the bottom seal will reveal more.
Thanks guys.

Added: would it be better to install it a little higher than to the right a bit?
John's comment about the angle the cables come out have me thinking.

[JRTJH]

If you're replacing the plywood block, you should be able to install the pully block in the same location. If you go higher, you run the risk of lifting the slide as it reaches the end of travel. If you mount the pully block further out, you run the risk of wear on the guides/cables. I say that because most aluminum cable guides are diamond shaped. Your "best bet" would be to install it in the same location, using a new plywood block and possibly go up one size in screw size. That would give you a means to "bite any aluminum structure" behind the plywood plate. If there is nothing behind the plywood plate but 1/8" luan and Styrofoam, you might consider an aluminum backer plate behind the plywood.