How to Winterize Your RV Using Compressed Air

[notanlines]

Lynette! Oh, Lynette! I thought maybe you'd join the "my town's colder than your town" discussion. Tough competition with Moses Lake and western New York.
God, I love this forum....

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by Jim2366

I use a compressor to blow out all the lines. Then I use the RV antifreeze method too. Why not do both then you have any water mixed in with the anti freeze so it's full strength.

Don't forget por antifreeze in the drains to fill the traps.

The main reason I use compressed air only is because it works. I also don't have to put any antifreeze in my lines that I'll have to purge out in the Spring. And don't forget, that antifreeze costs money and is also toxic. Also, blowing out the lines is quicker.

So I save time, money, and I'm not putting anything in my water system that isn't meant to be consumed.

And you're right about the pee traps.

[61Hawks]

I have used the compressed air method for years. The only differences are that i empty the HWH then put the plug back in and use the heater as an air tank. My compressor is set to 30 psi and i get a steady flow of air. I start with the toilet and go to each tap after. I dont use the pink stuff for my traps but I use winter windshield antifreeze as it is about $3 cheaper per gallon. it is good to 50 below here in Canada. When I'm done i release any pressure at the HWH and take out the plug. I have never had a problem in 25 years.

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by 61Hawks

I have used the compressed air method for years. The only differences are that i empty the HWH then put the plug back in and use the heater as an air tank. My compressor is set to 30 psi and i get a steady flow of air. I start with the toilet and go to each tap after. I dont use the pink stuff for my traps but I use winter windshield antifreeze as it is about $3 cheaper per gallon. it is good to 50 below here in Canada. When I'm done i release any pressure at the HWH and take out the plug. I have never had a problem in 25 years.

An air tank? Curious about that. On my unit I just utilize the bypass valve on my hot water tank so no air or water can seep into it while blowing out the lines. Do you leave your plug out all winter? Never know, critters might get in there. lol

I also start with the toilet, which is the closest water input from my city water connection in my RV system. Then continue that path to the next closest water input (bathroom sink/shower/kitchen sink/outside shower). Not sure if this makes a huge difference as most water has already been purged before using air pressure.

And I'm with you on the windshield washer fluid. But where I live, the RV antifreeze is cheaper.

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by notanlines

Lynette! Oh, Lynette! I thought maybe you'd join the "my town's colder than your town" discussion. Tough competition with Moses Lake and western New York.
God, I love this forum....

LOL...gotta love a little banter to keep things alive.

[Keip911]

I am not understanding the "gunk". is that from the person's compressed air? or are you guys saying blowing air leaves crap stuck in lines? The tutorials I have seen still have you put in the pink stuff even after blowing lines....just not completely filling the lines with pink stuff.

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by Keip911

I am not understanding the "gunk". is that from the person's compressed air? or are you guys saying blowing air leaves crap stuck in lines? The tutorials I have seen still have you put in the pink stuff even after blowing lines....just not completely filling the lines with pink stuff.

When I'm done operating my compressor I always drain the tank using the left over air pressure and the material at the bottom will come out. Because air is full of moisture, water itself is very corrosive and can produce that gunk you're talking about, but that gunk settles at the bottom of the air tank.

I've used an air compressor for decades and I've never seen that waste come out of the attachment I'm using. And even if some did come out and into the RV water system, when Spring comes I thoroughly flush my lines with fresh water.

My owners manual does not recommend using the RV antifreeze after blowing out the lines. Use one method or the other.

And as I mentioned in a previous post, look at the warning label on the "Pink Stuff". Supposed to call a physician immediately if consumed.

[Falcon67]

Not finding the "gunk" reference but all air compressors by nature create moisture in the tanks from the compression process. That has to be bled out periodically. Depending on the compressor - it's not a little water, it's a bunch. Airless worse than portable 20 gallon single cylinder compressor worse than 60 gallon upright, etc. The water will also come into the air line which can "contaminate" attached equipment. Why there are coolers and abundant water and oil filtering + line traps on lines feeding a paint sprayer and why there should be a water/filter trap on a feed to an air tool. Every air drop in my shop has a water trap below the connector port and attached lines use at least a water trap. The bitty "pancake" compressors are terrible about making tons of water mostly because they are small and run nearly constantly to do anything.

Bottom line - it's a good idea to have a water trap somewhere in your air line to keep from pumping in residual moisture when you are actually trying to get moisture out of the system LOL.

Marineman has it also - flush all lines with fresh in the spring.

ALSO - if you use air tools AND use a water trap/oiler in front of the hose feeding the air tool - DO NOT use same hose to blow out your water lines. RE: Fresh water hose vs black water washout - similar issues.

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by Falcon67

Not finding the "gunk" reference but all air compressors by nature create moisture in the tanks from the compression process. That has to be bled out periodically. Depending on the compressor - it's not a little water, it's a bunch. Airless worse than portable 20 gallon single cylinder compressor worse than 60 gallon upright, etc. The water will also come into the air line which can "contaminate" attached equipment. Why there are coolers and abundant water and oil filtering + line traps on lines feeding a paint sprayer and why there should be a water/filter trap on a feed to an air tool. Every air drop in my shop has a water trap below the connector port and attached lines use at least a water trap. The bitty "pancake" compressors are terrible about making tons of water mostly because they are small and run nearly constantly to do anything.

Bottom line - it's a good idea to have a water trap somewhere in your air line to keep from pumping in residual moisture when you are actually trying to get moisture out of the system LOL.

ALSO - if you use air tools AND use a water trap/oiler in front of the hose feeding the air tool - DO NOT use same hose to blow out your water lines. RE: Fresh water hose vs black water washout - similar issues.

And the older the tank the worse the problem.

LOL...pumping in residual moisture? Definitely not enough to matter.

Good advice on a water separator if someone is concerned about that gunk coming out of the line.

[Falcon67]

I don't - but then my shop is 960 sq/ft for 5 air drops from a 60 gallon compressor. I have traps at every drop and a massive air/water trap/natural cooler setup on the tank output.

If I was using the backup 25 gallon portable (motor plus compressor head) - yes, there's a crap-ton of water that comes out of that thing. I've painted a car with that compressor and it took a big moisture filter at the tank, an inline trap and a filter at the gun changed every time the paint cup was refilled.

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by Falcon67

I don't - but then my shop is 960 sq/ft for 5 air drops from a 60 gallon compressor. I have traps at every drop and a massive air/water trap/natural cooler setup on the tank output.

If I was using the backup 25 gallon portable (motor plus compressor head) - yes, there's a crap-ton of water that comes out of that thing. I've painted a car with that compressor and it took a big moisture filter at the tank, an inline trap and a filter at the gun changed every time the paint cup was refilled.

Wow, that's a massive setup! I'm jealous! lol

I have a little Iron Horse 4 gallon compressor that I mainly use to air up my tires and blow out my RV water system every Fall. And I don't use it for any power tools so it gets used very little.

I also hardly use any air when I blow out my RV as most of the water is out of the system before I use the compressor. And I drain the tank after each use and I leave the valve open so any water in the air tank can evaporate.

I've done this for 14 years, on 2 different TT's, with no issues.

[SummitPond]

Originally Posted by Falcon67

[clip]
Bottom line - it's a good idea to have a water trap somewhere in your air line to keep from pumping in residual moisture when you are actually trying to get moisture out of the system LOL.
[clip]

THIS is not exactly what I use, but it's close. Moisture or gunk coming out of the tank is trapped by this little device and doesn't get into the air hose, tools or the water lines when being blown out.

And, of course, drain the air tank when you're through using the stopcock at the bottom of the tank. It's amazing how much water comes out!

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by SummitPond

THIS is not exactly what I use, but it's close. Moisture or gunk coming out of the tank is trapped by this little device and doesn't get into the air hose, tools or the water lines when being blown out.

And, of course, drain the air tank when you're through using the stopcock at the bottom of the tank. It's amazing how much water comes out!

That looks like an excellent upgrade to keep water and debris out of the water lines. And not expensive.

[flybouy]

On my home compressor I installed an "automatic drain valve" that drains the tank automatically when I shut off the compressor. Saves me from getting on my hands and knees everytime I use it.