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Old 09-26-2021, 12:35 PM   #1
TopoTony
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Brakes not working…

Have adjusted the shoes to a snug fit. Traced all electrical. Everything looks new, and rightly so since its a 2021. Tested with the neighbors trailer and my truck locked up his trailer’s brakes. Means my controller is working. Then tested my trailer with my truck and it did not work 😩
We hear a humming at the wheels when engaging the manual lever/button on the Curt controller, but the current seems to be deficient since they don’t respond.
It’s a mystery. Any ideas? We’re on the coast of CA, and gotta get this sorted before driving home 🙁
I need to find another person to try their truck on my trailer, I guess, but I don’t think that will provide any new feedback, unless it worked.
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Old 09-26-2021, 12:40 PM   #2
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Hook your trailer up, pull the break away pin. If the brakes lock up, then you know the trailer brakes are good. Then make sure all the 7 way connections are good. Look at the trailer side and make sure none of the slots are too wide.
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Old 09-26-2021, 12:52 PM   #3
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Is the breakaway pin easily inserted back into the switch after that test? Seems it’s quite tight when I try to pull it.

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Hook your trailer up, pull the break away pin. If the brakes lock up, then you know the trailer brakes are good. Then make sure all the 7 way connections are good. Look at the trailer side and make sure none of the slots are too wide.
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Old 09-26-2021, 12:57 PM   #4
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Yes it should go back in.
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Old 09-26-2021, 03:13 PM   #5
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Pull the drums & check for grease. If you, or anyone, have ever pumped grease into the zerks on the ends of the spindles attempting to grease the bearings you've most likely filled the drums covering the shoes with grease. If so purchase new brake backing plates with everything preassembled, it's much less work/mess than trying to clean them up, the brake shoes are ruined once saturated with grease.
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Old 09-26-2021, 05:22 PM   #6
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And in case you did not know there should be boost and gain setting on the controller if not set strong enough it feels like brakes or controller are not working. In that case they are just not adjusted to that trailer.
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Old 09-26-2021, 06:31 PM   #7
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Breakaway switch did not lock up the brakes. There’s something seriously wrong in there. We took off the tire, but the drums can’t pull off without removing a bearing nut. That was past what we are capable of doing here in the campground. Kind of stuck at this point.
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Old 09-26-2021, 06:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopoTony View Post
Breakaway switch did not lock up the brakes. There’s something seriously wrong in there. We took off the tire, but the drums can’t pull off without removing a bearing nut. That was past what we are capable of doing here in the campground. Kind of stuck at this point.
Are you going to tow it home? If not, there is another test you can do without taking anything apart. You will need a DC amp clamp put it on one of the wires from the break away and measure amp draw. If it’s not 12-16 amps, the issue is most likely the wiring. Crawl underneath and inspect all the connections

One side will have a pair coming out of the underbelly, connected to a set going into the brakes and another set going to the other side. Same thing on the other axle. If all of that is intact, then you probably lost a wire going to a magnet.
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Old 09-27-2021, 11:13 AM   #9
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We measured about 6 amps. Inspected all connections except removing the ground to chassis. Googling amperage for electric trailer brakes, it said 3. We got 12v readings from ground to hot at all junction points. Everything seems to be correct, but yet the issue persists. It’s raining out there today so I’m waiting for a break the weather. Whatever is going, it’s affecting both sides, so it would have to be some electrical issue or grease on the drums, as another poster said. We have a couple more days to figure it out before leaving.
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Old 09-27-2021, 11:16 AM   #10
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Yep. I cranked the power up. It worked fine on the other trailer I tested. With the break away not working, that says the problem is post the truck, but I can’t locate where…yet
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Old 09-27-2021, 11:23 AM   #11
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Makes sense, but the previous owner never had the rig serviced, nor did it himself. It’s not likely this is the case here. It’s still a mystery coupled with no options to talk to, or consult with anyone at a shop. There’s only 1 Rv repair in this town and they are a month out for appointments ��
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Old 09-27-2021, 11:25 AM   #12
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Yep. I cranked the power up. It worked fine on the other trailer I tested. With the break away not working, that says the problem is post the truck, but I can’t locate where…yet
Based on my past experiences, I'd start with the 7 way pigtail...

Your truck most likely has a Bargman plug and the trailer has a cheaply made imitation... I've seen more than one give connection problems..

You might try an application of Dielectric grease it could help in the short term.. but my solution has always been to swap out the pigtail for a Bargman..
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Old 09-28-2021, 03:31 PM   #13
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Wow! You are the winner of the mystery challenge. I finally found a tire and brake place that could look at it today. After tracing all the electrical, and seeing it was fine, he pulled the drum. Everything was saturated in grease. But the other mystery that has been born is there are no shoes left. It’s metal on metal. Possibly the previous owner did not notice his controller was crushing the system? Both sides are like this, so there’s another clue. He certainly did not know this was happening. Another odd result of something unknown.


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Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
Pull the drums & check for grease. If you, or anyone, have ever pumped grease into the zerks on the ends of the spindles attempting to grease the bearings you've most likely filled the drums covering the shoes with grease. If so purchase new brake backing plates with everything preassembled, it's much less work/mess than trying to clean them up, the brake shoes are ruined once saturated with grease.
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Old 09-28-2021, 04:07 PM   #14
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Glad you got it figured out.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 09-28-2021, 05:02 PM   #15
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Wow! You are the winner of the mystery challenge. I finally found a tire and brake place that could look at it today. After tracing all the electrical, and seeing it was fine, he pulled the drum. Everything was saturated in grease. But the other mystery that has been born is there are no shoes left. It’s metal on metal. Possibly the previous owner did not notice his controller was crushing the system? Both sides are like this, so there’s another clue. He certainly did not know this was happening. Another odd result of something unknown.

Glad you found the issue. Maybe the previous owner didn't consider pumping a tube of grease into the zerks "maintenance"? I've never had a new one with brakes saturated with grease but have had what I considered a "sketchy" (small) amount of grease in them.

Pulling hubs is an essential part of looking after your trailer...or having it done but for sure if anyone buys a "used" trailer, seemingly new or not, the simple things like that must be done prior to taking a trip or things like this happen. Not chiding, been in the same boat, just saying that going forward, and for any newbies reading, KNOW what's in those hubs and the status of your brakes.....they can save you or kill you.
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