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Old 01-13-2014, 04:43 PM   #1
game warden
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Grey tank too small

I have a 2012 303TG and it only has a 30 gal grey tank. I was looking on the Keystone web site and the new line up in the Laredo series has a 60 and 72 gal tank for the travel trailer series. I was wondering if any one thought the larger tank would work on my 2012 ?? or would fit ??
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:12 PM   #2
JRTJH
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The 68 gallons of gray water is probably not contained in a single tank, but rather in two 34 gallon tanks, one for the kitchen and one for the shower/bathroom sink. Your 2012 apparently has a single 30 gallon gray tank for everything. You may be able to drop the coroplast, plumb in another gray tank (30 gallons or around that size) under the bath to service that area and replumb the existing tank to service the kitchen only. It wouldn't be "that hard" to do, but would probably take at least a weekend of work and the tank/strapping to install it would run roughly $3 or 4 hundred.

It's doable, but if you decide to try, make sure you plan to install insulation around the new tank to incorporate some winter protection (at least as much as is currently in your RV) so you don't decrease your ability to camp in cooler weather.

I'd think it would be a LOT cheaper and easier to just get a 35 or 40 gallon blue tote and keep it under the RV to drain the existing tank when it's full. That way you would have the best of both worlds.... Increased holding capacity when dry camping and the existing, lighter weight of a single tank when you're using full hookups.
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:45 PM   #3
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Common issue in TT's. The biggest single tanks in TT's are about 40 gals which is still not much. The ones with tanks that size are few and far between.
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:12 AM   #4
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My blue tote goes everywhere with me!!!!
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:59 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by game warden View Post
I have a 2012 303TG and it only has a 30 gal grey tank. I was looking on the Keystone web site and the new line up in the Laredo series has a 60 and 72 gal tank for the travel trailer series. I was wondering if any one thought the larger tank would work on my 2012 ?? or would fit ??
If you are using full hook-up sites leave the gray water tank open until the night before you leave. Making sure that you close the gray water tank valve the night before; this way you can use the gray water to clean the drain hose when you leave. We leave the kitchen gray water tank open every time we hook-up. This tank never seems to drain fully in my case so we leave it open and close the tank valve after the slide goes in.
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Old 01-16-2014, 04:52 PM   #6
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When we camp in COE parks with no sewer HU, we always run out of tank with the galley tank with volume to spare on the shower tank. I've read that by leaving the sewer cap in place and opening the grey tai valves, the two tanks would equalize. If that's true, that would get us through a long weekend. I know I would have to stand back when I removed the sewer cap.
Has anyone tried this?
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:18 PM   #7
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I've read that by leaving the sewer cap in place and opening the grey tai valves, the two tanks would equalize. If that's true, that would get us through a long weekend. I know I would have to stand back when I removed the sewer cap.
Has anyone tried this?
Bob -
I'm not sure if opening both of the gray tank valves (galley and shower) would ""equalize" the two tanks. Trying to visualize it and can't see how that would work - if you do have two separate gray tanks.

I cut off about 8 in off the sewer outlet and put on a Valterra 3" slide valve and a Valterra end cap with a hose fitting on it. This setup prevents any sudden gush of stuff coming out of the tanks by letting me control the flow with the valve. It also stops any surprises that might happen as a result of not closing your tank valves and then loosening and removing the end cap.

The hose fitting at the end cap also provides a means of "bleeding" off small quantities of liquids from the gray water tanks - into a hose or into a bucket.
It's just another way of having a bit more control over the volume of liquids coming out of the tanks and perhaps not requiring you to "stand back" when emptying the tanks.
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:37 AM   #8
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Festus2

If both of the grey tanks are tied into the common 3" dump line (most are) opening both grey tank valves while keeping the cap on the common dump would allow water to flow from either the highest or fullest tank into the lower however as was eluded to by both you and Bob it would make a mess as any liquid left in the lines after closing both valves is there to stay until the cap is removed.

The fix you advocate is a good one and I think one we should all consider if for no other reason than to provide a stopgap to a leaking valve. I know I currently have one that I made up with a quick disconnect and always install it when we reach a campsite. Having it allows me to either equalize the two grey tanks or to provide a leak stop when using the dumpette.

I also have started using a macerator pump and leaving the 35 gallon dumpette in the back of the truck. That way I don't have to tow it through the campground; as some of the dump stations in the Texas parks are quite a ways from the campsites.
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:01 AM   #9
Bob Landry
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Javi,
Would you post a photo of the valve assay you made up?
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:18 AM   #10
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Valtera makes a twist on slide valve that replaces the cap on your sewer outlet. You simply remove your existing cap, twist this assembly on your sewer dump and install your existing cap on the other side of this valve. To "equalize" the gray tanks, twist on the end valve, close it and open both the gray tank valves. There will be no gray water leakage and there is a valve to dump the water that is in the plumbing lines. No muss, no fuss and equalized gray tanks. Cost is about $20 - $25.

Here's the CW link, and for those that don't like CW, here's a picture so you can pick one up at your local RV store. I'm guessing that unless you have the "spare parts" laying around, it would be cheaper to buy the assembled valve than it would be to buy the components and try to glue it together yourself.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...on-valve/27868
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:47 AM   #11
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That's basically it... I made mine out of a leftover 3" slip valve, a piece of clear PVC and slip fittings, all left over from a project here at work... If I hadn't of had that stuff laying around the shop, I'd have bought the one John posted.
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:19 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Valtera makes a twist on slide valve that replaces the cap on your sewer outlet. You simply remove your existing cap, twist this assembly on your sewer dump and install your existing cap on the other side of this valve. To "equalize" the gray tanks, twist on the end valve, close it and open both the gray tank valves. There will be no gray water leakage and there is a valve to dump the water that is in the plumbing lines. No muss, no fuss and equalized gray tanks. Cost is about $20 - $25.



Here's the CW link, and for those that don't like CW, here's a picture so you can pick one up at your local RV store. I'm guessing that unless you have the "spare parts" laying around, it would be cheaper to buy the assembled valve than it would be to buy the components and try to glue it together yourself.



http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...on-valve/27868

This is the one I use. I open both grey tanks, after the other valve is closed. Based on my tank level indicators, it pretty much equalizes the tanks on MY trailer.
Good $20 spent for me!!
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