No power in my unit

Laredo60 · 04-12-2014, 03:00 AM

Oh boy first trip out and got power issues.
So I don't here the fan coming on on my converter? It comes on for a second when I trip the breaker. I am getting some power to the appliances but not all of them. No heat, no fridge, etc. it is freezing out right now. I'm not sure where to start. All fuses are good in panel. No breakers are tripped. My lights inside we're working but dim. Any suggestions on where to start here. Thanks

bsmith0404 · 04-12-2014, 03:08 AM

Just want to make sure I understand your problem. Are you on shore or battery power? Which appliances are working and which are not? Is the fridge working on propane?

Laredo60 · 04-12-2014, 03:16 AM

I am on shore power. Fridge will not turn on. It comes up with both lights on. Check light comes on. TV comes on microwave clock come on. Out list seem to work? I did not try hot water heater yet.

bsmith0404 · 04-12-2014, 03:30 AM

This is a strange one, first thing I would recommend is disconnect from shore and make sure everything that is supposed to work on battery does. I.E. the microwave and A/C should not have any function at all. The fridge should start on propane, make sure your lines are purged, light the stove burners first. Once you know what works on battery, then you can plug back into shore to see what you gain or lose.

Laredo60 · 04-12-2014, 03:32 AM

Seems like anything that works off of 12/doc and 120 volt a/c is not working

bsmith0404 · 04-12-2014, 03:35 AM

Was there any change at all, with anything, when you disconnected shore power? I'm just wanting to make sure.

Laredo60 · 04-12-2014, 03:48 AM

No change at all. My surge protected is saying I have an open ground some where.

bsmith0404 · 04-12-2014, 04:00 AM

Sounds like your surge protector is correct. It is rare that you will lose both sides 12 and 120 volt at the same time. I've seen shore power cables cause problems, but 12 V will still work. I doubt this will help you at all, but my first step in trouble shooting is always to eliminate everything I can easily just to make sure. Disconnect shore power cable from the camper, not from the box, disconnect from your truck as well if you haven't already. Basically isolate down to your RV wiring only. Hopefully you have a volt/ohm meter and you can start at the batteries and check your power at different points along the way to figure out where you lose power. Since all of your breakers are good, I suspect it is somewhere early in the circuit.

Maybe someone else will chime in with some better ideas. You are obviously getting some power through to get the clock on the microwave. Sorry I couldn't be more help.

Laredo60 · 04-12-2014, 04:46 AM

Thanks for your help seems like everything works that is on 110 only everything that's on both no good.

bsmith0404 · 04-12-2014, 04:48 AM

A/C works?

Laredo60 · 04-12-2014, 04:57 AM

Yes ac works

bsmith0404 · 04-12-2014, 05:03 AM

There is an in-line fuse from your batteries, is it good?

Bob Landry · 04-12-2014, 05:10 AM

This is a confusing thread and that's compounded by the OP's lack of understanding of the electrical system in the trailer. The first thing is to understand the difference between AC & DC and what runs on each. The AC power distribution works the same as in a stick house. The AC panel gets power and distributes it throughout the individual circuit breakers. If anything works, the AC power is good. The converter is also powered from an AC circuit breaker and provides 12V as well as charging the battery. With the battery turned off/disconnected, everything else is powered from the converter. if the lights flicker or dim with the battery turned off, the converter is bad. If you disconnect from shore power, the battery should run the lights at a stead brilliance.
An open ground, indicated by the EMS, while a potential safety hazard, will not keep any of the AC appliances from working. It will also not keep DC devices from working because the DC ground comes from the negative side of the battery and the frame of the trailer.
People have a tendency to ask a lot of irrelevant questions when these electrical issues pop up, but troubleshooting a trailer's electrical system isn't rocket science. and a little understanding about how everything works, goes a long way.

bsmith0404 · 04-12-2014, 05:21 AM

Bob, I agree, that is why I was asking him so many questions to try and isolate exactly what the problem is. Doesn't make any sense that the fridge doesn't work since it should switch over to gas if there is no power. Additionally, if the A/C and microwave are working, the fridge should also be working on AC. The more I read about what is and what isn't working the less sense it makes. I figured by isolating to battery power will help narrow the problem down. You either get it or you don't. If not, where are you losing it?

Laredo60 · 04-12-2014, 05:54 AM

Thanks for your help. I disconnected the battery, leaving shore power connected and the lights do not turn on at all. The circuit breaker for the converter is on and does not seem to have any issue. Does this sound like a bad converter?

Bob Landry · 04-12-2014, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laredo60

Thanks for your help. I disconnected the battery, leaving shore power connected and the lights do not turn on at all. The circuit breaker for the converter is on and does not seem to have any issue. Does this sound like a bad converter?

It does sound like a converter to me, but as a final check, turn off the breaker to the converter and check ech individual fuse. if they are all OK, then the converter needs to be replaced. Also, just the converter section can be replaced if it's bad, the entire unit does not have to be replaced.

bsmith0404 · 04-13-2014, 03:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

It does sound like a converter to me, but as a final check, turn off the breaker to the converter and check ech individual fuse. if they are all OK, then the converter needs to be replaced. Also, just the converter section can be replaced if it's bad, the entire unit does not have to be replaced.

X2, your 12 V uses fuses, the breakers are for 120. Sounds like you have isolated down to not getting 12 volts out of the converter, now you just need to determine why. Should be a group of automotive type blade fuses in your panel. If they are good, the converter is most likely your problem.

Laredo60 · 04-13-2014, 03:47 AM

Thanks for your help guys. The fuses in the converter were blown. $3.50 and we are back in business:-).

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