Show RV's with 120V refrigerators

[Pmedic4]

Been to a couple RV shows recently, and noticed quite a few RV's now have a regular 120V residential type refrigerator, running with power from a 1000 watt inverter (and of course battery).

Personally, having a residential refrigerator in place of the dual mode RV type doesn't seem that big of an issue, since I don't really plan on doing much, if any boondocking so a 120V frig wouldn't be that big of an issue, and running from an inverter while driving doesn't seem to be a big problem if you have the 160 amp alternator? Even have noted that Dometic now has a 'Super Hybrid' type of refrigerator which has a compressor that runs on 110V or 12 volts.

Does anyone have a residential type refrigerator in their RV? Use it while towing with the inverter? Is it noisy, which seems to supposedly be one of the complaints of these compressor driven models?

Has anyone retro fit a apartment size frig in their RV when the absorption unit failed? Did you install an inverter to run the fridge while on the road?

I don't think I'll do something unless I have a problem with my current unit, but sure seems like comparing a $1200 absorption unit with a $500 apartment model seems like a good option. Even if buying a 1000 watt inverter, it would still be less. Of course, not forgetting the removal and installation of the frig - and you'll have to do that anyway.

[denverpilot]

Originally Posted by Pmedic4

... and running from an inverter while driving doesn't seem to be a big problem if you have the 160 amp alternator?

What's the current draw on them?

One thing you may not have considered is that there's a limitation to how many amps you can draw from the TV. Usually both limited by wire gauge and a fuse hidden somewhere.

An inverter to run a full sized fridge is going to pull a lot of amps on the DC side. You could have a 200A alternator on the TV and it won't matter if you can't get them through the wire to the trailer, possibly through the battery charger (if yours does a DC to DC pass through), and to the inverter input.

You may find that some gets there and the wiring at the RV plug gets a bit toasty warm but it isn't enough and you'll make up for it from the RV battery, meaning a slight deficit in battery power instead of your TV topping them off.

It all can be managed... I just mention it in case you haven't researched how many amps you can draw comfortably from the TV through the RV connector and wiring. I think mine is fused at 10 on the TV side, but I'd have to go look. I never run 10A worth of DC stuff while hitched up with the TV ignition on, and mine does disconnect when the TV ignition is switched off...

Which is another problem be managed that I've seen people fight when the DC circuit is wired to the connector incorrectly and not switched. They have to make sure their trailer doesn't drain their TV battery at stops.

[cw3jason]

Yes, my Montana has a residential fridge. It runs very well while being towed. and The noise from the inverter is only a cooling fan, cant even hear it with the compartment door closed. The draw on the tow vehicle is not an issue. Most of the time the inverter is running off the installed battery and the Tow vehicle is recharging that battery just as it would any other setup, after 2 days travel the battery has seen sufficient drain, that the inverter will not stay running unless the tow vehicle is running. (I believe it is a safety feature in the inverter as to not drain the battery below 50%). But as long as the truck is running the refrigerator keeps running. Better batteries would help, but I have not invested in them yet.

[dcg9381]

Originally Posted by Pmedic4

... and running from an inverter while driving doesn't seem to be a big problem if you have the 160 amp alternator?

That's true if you're in a motorhome, but in a truck, you're subject to the limits of the hookup in back. I believe that limit is around 30A of possible charge capacity... 30A * 12 = 360 watts, so that's about the draw that you can cover while towing very best case.

[JRTJH]

Another consideration for whether to replace with the same LP/110 RV refrigerator or go with a "cheaper apartment refrigerator" is resale value. Doing the conversion, buying an inverter, hooking up/wiring the new system may save a few bucks at the time, but you'd also need to consider resale. By not having the "dry camping option" you'll eliminate some of the potential purchasers and by having a "home conversion" trade in value may be decreased even if you trade it in at a dealership.

There is a "calling" for home refrigerators in larger "live in" or "full timing" RV's, but not so much with "camping trailers" where people want the versatility to be "off the grid" for a weekend without doing anything "extraordinary" to their trailer.

[chuckster57]

I'm starting to see residential fridges in lower/mid priced "camping" trailers. It seems to be a new trend, good or bad? The latest one I did was in a 30' travel trailer and had an inverter and auto transfer switch. The inverter had a remote on/off switch just below the monitor panel.

I prefer the LP/110V myself, but I just PDI and deliver them.

[dcg9381]

I'd consider the residential refrigerator a plus option, not a detractor to value. Too many people having bad luck with Norcold, they cost a lot to repair, and they just don't do that well if you're opening/closing a lot.

I understand why this would be a no-no for dry camping.. But we don't do that a lot, so it's my personal preference.

[Pmedic4]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I'm starting to see residential fridges in lower/mid priced "camping" trailers. It seems to be a new trend, good or bad? The latest one I did was in a 30' travel trailer and had an inverter and auto transfer switch. The inverter had a remote on/off switch just below the monitor panel. Re

I prefer the LP/110V myself, but I just PDI and deliver them.

That's what prompted my questions, seeing many of the lower priced RV's at the shows with residential refrigerators and inverters. My assumption is like all decisions regarding RV equipment is cost/price. We really have to wonder if the manufacturers are just doing for 1. cost and then 2. many newer RV purchasers wouldn't really understand the difference between the two types of refrigerators, and how they operate. In other words, naive purchasers would just assume that's how the refrigerators always operated, and be satisfied, when the objective was just a cost savings to the manufacturer.

Thanks for the discussion!

[chuckster57]

Any RV refer can have issues as can any residential refer. Consider this:RV refers are designed to bounce down the road and not come open. Residential refers have to have some sort of travel lock installed.

If your camping and have an issue with an RV refer, the fix may be just a short drive to any RV dealer for a part. I'm not sure any residential refer owner will have the same luck especially on a weekend.

I've had Dometic refers and no issues. The newer Norcold RV refers do have circulating fans in them.

[CWSWine]

To address some of issues. If you cool down your fridge before leaving by hook to house current it will last easy 12 to 18 hours off the battery since it doesn't run all the time after it's already cool and you're not opening the door.

The model we have has a screw in that holds all doors closed for travel and shorter one to hold them open for storage.

Power doesn't go straight from the truck to the fridge but is used to charge the batteries and the inverter will protect batteries from being drained. I have not tried it yet but I have told by others that they stayed over night at Wal-Mart with the TV not hooked up and the fridge will say cold - of coarse it will depend on what other 12 volt things you use.

It sure is nice having a full size fridge and ice maker!

[dcg9381]

Chuckster - good points. I've had good luck (generally) with my Dometics too, even those 10+ years old. I did the "recall" stuff on most of the older ones, but never had an real issue.

My latest Norcold pulls more DC power than my older units. I believe that power draw comes from the fans that are mounted on the back side of the unit designed to pull heat away... Probably makes for a more efficient unit overall, but it does draw a little more power. I think these fans run all the time, but not totally sure, it'd make more sense only to have them run when cooling.

I added a inside circulation fan to the newer Norcold fridge recently - helps prevent frost on the fins and I think it helps distribute air a bit better. It pulls more power, like .35 of an amp - something relatively low.

My unit has 2 batteries installed with a mount for a 3rd. I definitely wouldn't do a residential fridge on a single battery unit. And we'll probably keep the Norcold unit:
1) It dies, which I hope will be a long time from now
2) I need a bigger fridge
3) I'm installing an inverter anyway for some other nutty reason.