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Old 01-28-2018, 12:12 PM   #21
Baguak
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Having a multi meter and understanding how to use it would be invaluable. The meter is not an expensive item to purchase and there are numerous videos, etc that will teach you how to correctly use one..


I have one and can use it.


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Old 01-28-2018, 12:13 PM   #22
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Have you used a multi meter at the batteries and measured voltage. It should read around 13.4 to 13.8 with shore or generator power..if. It then as others stated check the two reverse polarity fuses on the converter..

If slid3s have hydraulic pump motor and it’s not running then either the resettable breaker from battery to pump has failed or the two way solenoid on the pump motor itself has failed or It is not getting power to run pump


It’s not even just the slides. Nothing works from battery except the generator will start off battery power.


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Old 01-28-2018, 12:15 PM   #23
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I appreciate all the ideas! Currently busted out the multimeter to check the thermal breakers and both are fine.
The only thing I can’t seem to find is the two 40 amp reverse polarity fuses everyone is taking about. I even removed the fuse panel and nothing. Arg...


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Old 01-28-2018, 12:28 PM   #24
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I appreciate all the ideas! Currently busted out the multimeter to check the thermal breakers and both are fine.
The only thing I can’t seem to find is the two 40 amp reverse polarity fuses everyone is taking about. I even removed the fuse panel and nothing. Arg...


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Old 01-28-2018, 12:29 PM   #25
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You need to locate the converter... it’s usually behind a panel in the basement.. it will have two 40 amp fuses located on back side of the converter


Is the converter different from the transfer box?


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Old 01-28-2018, 12:39 PM   #26
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Some (not very many) Keystone trailers use a "stand alone converter" that installs behind the power center. On some trailers it can be installed up to 4 or 5 feet away and connected to the DC distribution panel by two large gauge wires. It will look something like this picture and may be installed under the steps with the power center installed in a cupboard base near the steps. (just an example of how they can be remotely installed). The power center can be removed by taking out the 4 screws and gently pulling it away from it's mount. If the converter is not located on the back of that assembly, follow the two large wires to find the converter. You'll find the reverse polarity fuses located on the converter (rather than on the power center DC panel) in that type of unit.

Trust me (us) when we say that you have a converter and you have reverse polarity fuses "somewhere".

You can download the WFCO owner's manual/operating instructions for the stand alone converter here: http://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-conten...ors-Manual.pdf
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Old 01-28-2018, 12:55 PM   #27
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Directly from Trekwood.. your converter is stand alone and will look like this in the link





http://www.trekwood.com/products/413...ck-Mount-w-PFC


That is exactly what it looks like and you and a few other incredible people here have helped me to find it located behind a panel covering the water heater. There are 3 35amp fuses and they are all good.




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Old 01-28-2018, 01:02 PM   #28
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So measuring DC power at the battery with shore power hooked up are you seeing 13.4 or better?

Since slides are the main issue I would check the dual solenoid to the hydraulic motor and see if power is present.

If you Are in a bind and need to move you do know you can manually close those slides?


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I think I didn’t articulate the issue well enough. Nothing that will run on a battery will work, not just the slides.

I know the slides can manually be cranked in. I have never done it but am I assuming correctly that the wood frame around the slideout on the inside needs to be removed?


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Old 01-28-2018, 01:05 PM   #29
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That is exactly what it looks like and you and a few other incredible people here have helped me to find it located behind a panel covering the water heater. There are 3 35amp fuses and they are all good.




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Might I also say that on the front of the converter there are three lights. None of them are on.


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Old 01-28-2018, 01:07 PM   #30
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So if nothing DC is working trace from battery to converter. If DC present trace from converter DC wires to main distribution panel.

Is DC present at bus? If yes then issue has to be at the distribution panel.

Are all the heavy gauge white and black DC wires tight connections at converter and dist panel.


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Heading out to check now. I am starting to think the converter is shot


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Old 01-28-2018, 01:29 PM   #31
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Also I missed it but you state non of the 3 LED lights are on. If the green LeD is not lit either you have no AC power to converter or converter is BAD


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That was what I was assuming. Can I use my volt meter to test at the converter?


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Old 01-28-2018, 02:12 PM   #32
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Baguak......back in your post #28, where you show a picture of the breaker panel....all the way to the left of the panel there is a breaker that is either tripped or turned off. Would that be the breaker that feeds the 120VAC to your converter? Possibly?

One other question....are there any of the 120V items in the trailer not working.....receptacles, microwave, water heater, etc, etc.? What I'm getting at with that question is that if you have other 120V items not working, there may be a possibility that you've lost one side of the incoming power to the breaker panel. If you are comfortable and know what you are doing with a meter, check across the load side of the two main fuses in the breaker panel and see if you have your approx. 240VAC.
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Old 01-28-2018, 03:19 PM   #33
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What and where do you have your shore power plugged into? Is it a GFI plug at the house?

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Old 01-28-2018, 03:24 PM   #34
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Nice catch on that beaker


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I think I hit it when I took the panel off. I checked anyways. It’s to the water heater. No change once flipping it back on. Good catch though!


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Old 01-28-2018, 03:51 PM   #35
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It looked like it was off vs. tripped, but was worth asking about. How about the rest of the question.....are you missing some 120 volt power anywhere else in the trailer?
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Old 01-28-2018, 03:52 PM   #36
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It looked like it was off vs. tripped, but was worth asking about. How about the rest of the question.....are you missing some 120 volt power anywhere else in the trailer?


Everywhere when trying to run off battery. Thanks!


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Old 01-28-2018, 03:55 PM   #37
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Everywhere when trying to run off battery. Thanks!


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So the microwave is working? The electric 110v plugs in the trailer are working? How many volts do you read across the battery terminals with your meter? Where are you plugged into? A campground pedestal or a extention at home?

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Old 01-28-2018, 04:03 PM   #38
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Everywhere when trying to run off battery. Thanks!


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Okay... now I'm really confused.. the battery don't do 110 ac without an inverter..
I thought you wasn't getting 12 volts

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Old 01-29-2018, 12:32 PM   #39
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Baffling power issue

I feel like things are getting confusing. Probably my lack of understanding. Sorry about the late reply but I work long hours as well.
Currently everything except my slide outs work off shore and generator
The slide outs require a battery
Nothing like my lights for example run off my battery
I have verified both thermal breakers are fine
I verified all fuses on the control panel are fine
I verified all breakers on control panel are fine
I verified the reverse amp fuses are fine
There are no power lights in the converter box lit up
Even if the converter is bad itself this doesn’t explain why my lights do not work correct?

Again, I cannot thank all of you enough for your patience and help on this!


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Old 01-29-2018, 01:14 PM   #40
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Please see my questions in post #49. Answering these may help us get back on the rails.

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