Sometimes 30A Just Isn't Enough

[Bob Landry]

We all end up running out of power and tripping breakers, especially when the AC is going, the water heater is on electric, the coffee pot is on and to top it off, DW needs to run the hair dryer.

As much as I would love it, my Outback is not set up for a second air conditioner, so it doesn't make sense to go to the expense to upgrade the electrical to 50A service, not to mention having to replace a PI EMS with a 50A version

This is a break-out box that plugs into 50A CG service and splits it into two 30A circuits. I'll add another Marinco power input with the existing inlet and I have a Blue Sea power distribution panel with a double pole 30A breaker and 5 branch circuits that I used in a Class B that I built a few years back. The idea is to take all of the electrical loads and balance them between the two circuits while leaving all of the inductive loads protected by the EMS. I also currently have an additional 20A service that I use to run space heaters so I'll probably keep that, just move it so I can have the new panel close to the inverter. Or, I may build an enclosure for it and put it on one of the shelves in the corner pantry. I'll do it in a way that minimizes the amount of wire splicing I'll need to do.

Details on the box.. I started with a 240V 4 wire dryer cord from Lowe's. it had the two hots of #6 wire and the neutral and ground are #8. I would have preferred to have the neutral also #6, but as short as the length of wiring is, it will probably be OK. All the components are available at Lowe's. You'll see a Camco 50A plug attached. That's because when I cut the dryer cord, I was planning on using boxes with 1/2" openings. BIG MISTAKE. The junction boxes with 1/2" openings are two shallow to allow the necessary flexing and bending of the #6 wire needed when you screw the outlets to the junction boxes.The #6 wire is already hard enough to work with. So, I switched to boxes with 3/4" openings and that worked. With careful planning and measuring before cutting the wires, the plug on the dryer cord would have worked fine.The 3/4" coupling coming from the 50A plug does not make a tight seal around the cable, so some silicone down in the coupling is going to be in order. I can tell you that working with #6 wire in those small spaces will test your faith more than a long sermon on a pretty Sunday.

[billb800si]

Or you could have bought one of these already weather proof- marine approved.
http://tweetys.com/rv-y-adapter---50-x-30-x-30-amp.aspx

Happy trails,

[Bluewater]

Just a thought. Wouldn't it be a lot easier to just turn off one device before turning on another? My 5er has the 50 amp service but once in a while we are at a CG with only 30 amp. We leave the hot water off till needed and turn items off to use the micro. No real problem.

[Bob Landry]

Originally Posted by billb800si

Or you could have bought one of these already weather proof- marine approved.
http://tweetys.com/rv-y-adapter---50-x-30-x-30-amp.aspx

Happy trails,

Yes, I suppose I could have purchased it however,

1. It's cheaper to build it

2. The quality is as good

3. Theft prevention is easier using a piece of chain and a padlock around it and the pedestal

4. I enjoy doing this kind of stuff.

[byrdr1]

YOU'RE !!
I like it.. for sharing.
On my 50a camper I still use the 30a drop cord most trips. I plug my camper into the 50a circuit. A 30a drop cord into that circuit and run it under the camper.
It serves as my extension cord for everything outside. My kitchen setup and any outside ligths(rope, led, spot). I still have the 20a if needed used it last trip to plug in my diesel to keep it warm during the cold snap.
randy

[GaryWT]

When I am at a site that the 30a trips I blame it on bad power. I usually just put the water heater on propane and all is good. We do not have an electric coffee pot and we rarely use the microwave so it is usually just the AC and water heater.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by GaryWT

When I am at a site that the 30a trips I blame it on bad power. I usually just put the water heater on propane and all is good. We do not have an electric coffee pot and we rarely use the microwave so it is usually just the AC and water heater.

Gary,

If you have a 50/30 amp adapter, you might try plugging into the 50 amp side. I've found that in many campgrounds, people plug/unplug their RV with the circuit breaker on and the resulting arc tends to burn the contacts in the pole plug. Since the 30 amp plug gets used more often, it goes "bad" faster than the 50 amp side. It seems to arc and burn the contacts creating a high resistance connection that can trip the pole breaker easier. I just plug into the 50 amp side using the adapter and almost always, the problem goes away.

[Bob Landry]

An EMS such as the PI will help you narrow it down. If the 30A connection on the pedestal is bad, it will read correct voltage with no load, but will drop when something is turned on. The same applies if you have a burned cord end or inlet on the trailer. Either will generate a high resistance connection and a voltage drop. If you inspect the cord and it looks burned, both it and the trailer inlet need to be replaced. Thats why I went to the dogbone and to using the 50A service. I got tired of replacing shore power plugs.