Ceiling Fan/Light Switch Relocation/Upgrade

Roberson4 · 05-16-2012, 07:08 AM

AS WITH ANY ELECTRICAL PROJECT MAKE SURE YOU TURN OFF THE BREAKER AND OR UNHOOK 120V SHORE POWER BEFORE EXPOSING WIRES. MAYBE BEST TO TEST WITH A METER TO MAKE SURE POWER IS OFF.

For some reason our ceiling fan/light switch was located inside a coat closet along with the 'control center'. I decided to relocate the switch to the outside of the closet. While re-installing the wires in the switch I broke the cheap switch. After searching around the house for another switch to use I found a Lutron Maestro (MA-LFQM WH) I had not used. So, my relocation turned into an upgrade.
This switch requires a remote module to be wired/installed into the fan canopy. This required the removal of all the fan blades and the canopy. After wiring in the moduel and securing it to the ceiling fan mount I replaced the canopy and the blades.

Here are some pictures of what I did. Sorry, I forgot to take pictures of the ceiling fan module installation.

The switch I moved is located at the bottom left of the 'control center'. I removed the switch.

I used the switch to draw an outline of where I wanted to install it. The switch was moved from inside the cabinet to the left 'wall' of the cabinet. With the switch removed I was able to ensure there was nothing in the way where I wanted install it.

I used a reciprocating saw to cut the hole in the wall/cabinet.

Continued next post.

Roberson4 · 05-16-2012, 07:17 AM

Now I pulled the wires for the switch thru the new hole.

While installing (pressing) the wires back into the switch I broke one of the tabs that the wires get pinched between.

After searching around the house, I found this Lutron Maestro I had not used.

Continued next post.

allentx1 · 05-16-2012, 07:28 AM

So with the Maestro is it using the RF wave to control fan/light? I have those in my media room and had not considered for the RV. I actually am thinking now that I can wire it up and use the remote mounted outside for the flood lights. or who knows... I also have a Logitech RF remote kit that they sent me as part of some class action suit that I never used. I may be able to RF the whole camper. Keep 'em coming!

Roberson4 · 05-16-2012, 07:40 AM

I had to pull the wires back out of the hole and enlarge it to install this 'old work' switch box.

I attached a wire nut to the two white wires. I attached one black wire to the bottom screw and the other black wire to the top screw. And, used wire nut for ground wire.

I then installed the switch in the switch box.

Here is the completed switch installation.

Not in a picture, but I used a blank switch plate cover to cover the hole inside the cabinet where the switch was removed.

Roberson4 · 05-16-2012, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by allentx1

So with the Maestro is it using the RF wave to control fan/light? I have those in my media room and had not considered for the RV. I actually am thinking now that I can wire it up and use the remote mounted outside for the flood lights. or who knows... I also have a Logitech RF remote kit that they sent me as part of some class action suit that I never used. I may be able to RF the whole camper. Keep 'em coming!

Yes I can now control the fan speed and the light (dimmer) from the switch.

Yeah this 'mistake'

has my mind wondering also. Our house is almost totally controlled by INSTEON devices. I can use remotes, internet, or my iphone to control most all lights, fans, and AC/Heater.

If only I had not broken that switch.

One thing to remember is this fan/light is 120v so this switch will work with it. The flood lights you are talking about are 12v.

**hankpage** · 05-16-2012, 08:09 AM

I'm not sure what brand remote fan control I have in my stick house but ..... after a power interruption it reverts to the on position. Does this one do the same.

I can always tell if there has been a power failure when I come home to the dining-room fan/light on. (There is a small slide switch to turn remote off but I usually forget it)

Roberson4 · 05-16-2012, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hankpage

I'm not sure what brand remote fan control I have in my stick house but ..... after a power interruption it reverts to the on position. Does this one do the same.

I can always tell if there has been a power failure when I come home to the dining-room fan/light on. (There is a small slide switch to turn remote off but I usually forget it)

This one does not do that.

When the power comes back on the LED lights on the switch move from low to high several times (looking light night rider except not red) but the light and fan never come on.

Roberson4 · 05-16-2012, 10:03 AM

Ok so I took the fan back appart to take pictures.

Note: Ensure the pull chain positions on the fan is set to HIGH and the pull chain position on the fan-light is set to on. After I did this I removed the lower sections of the pull chains.

This is the ceiling huger type fan we have in our 5er.

I removed the light globe and the fan blades.

Next, there are 4 screws holding the cover on. There are two (on each side) that have to be removed and two (on each side) that can just be loosened.

More in next post.....

Roberson4 · 05-16-2012, 10:12 AM

Next there are 3 screws in the fan mounting bracket that need to be removed. Two you can see in the picture. The other screw is on the opposite side of the fan. This will allow the fan to hang down on the ceiling mount.

I used zip ties to attach the module to the fan mount. The module has 4 wires. (black, white, red, yellow) The black wire from the module hooks to the black wire coming from the switch. The white wire from the module hooks to the white wire coming from the switch. The yellow wire from the module pigtails hooks to the fan wire (black (in my setup) wire going into fan housing). The red wire from the module hooks to the light wire (blue (in my setup) wire going into the fan housing). The green wire from the fan stays connected to the ground wire from the switch.

Murphie · 05-27-2012, 08:07 PM

Roberson4, Great job on the documentation. Don't sweat it about the switch. I went to war with one too a few years back and had the same result. I had spent the day wiring at work only to come home to fight with those friggin switch boxes. They must use a punch down tool at the factory. I'm sure your posts will be helpful to many.

Murphie · 05-27-2012, 08:11 PM

I forgot to ask in my last post, do you have plans on installing a digital t stat? If so have you chosen which unit you'll go with?

Thanks. Richard

Roberson4 · 05-28-2012, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murphie

I forgot to ask in my last post, do you have plans on installing a digital t stat? If so have you chosen which unit you'll go with?

Thanks. Richard

Yeah, I have thought about it. I will probably go with the Coleman Digital Heat/Cool Thermostat. 8330-3362. Found one at rvplus.com for $66

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