Winterizing issue with hot water tank

Capebreton · 10-14-2013, 02:57 PM

Hey guys,

I`m in the process of winterizing my trailer and have drained my hot water tank. I removed the anode rod and opened the check valve to empty the water from the hot water tank. Water drained nicely, but the problem I encountered is that the rod will not tighten back into the tank. The threads appear to be fine and I noticed some buildup of teflon tape so I cleaned it up as best as I could with a small brush. But it will not tighten into the threads of the tank. I have just purchased the trailer this year and it is a 2013 Keystone Cougar Xlite and it has the suburban water heater. Any thoughs would be appreciated. I haven`t called keystone but I will be making a call soon.

Kirk

Here are a few pics

Dave & SUe · 10-14-2013, 03:35 PM

I don't see any thing that would keep it from going in.On ours,I have to push on the bottom edge just a little to start it.The long length of the rod will make it tip down as you try to get it started.Hope this helps some.

Festus2 · 10-14-2013, 03:38 PM

It is common to have some buildup of scale around the threads of both the anode and the HW tank. I soak the HW tank threads with baking soda then take a dental pick and carefully remove as much scale as I can without damaging the threads. I then use a small brass brush to remove anything left over.

I'd get rid of the anode and go out and buy a new one. A new anode won't set you back that much money. That anode has too much build up on the threads and could be the reason why it won't screw in smoothly. Use Teflon tape when inserting the new rod.

While the tank is empty, it is good practice to rinse the inside of it out with a solution of vinegar followed by a good hosing using a small metal hose adapter - small enough and with a bit of an elbow on it so it goes inside and reaches to the sides of the tank.

You can get one of these gizmos at CW I think. It just screws on to end of your water hose.

**JRTJH** · 10-14-2013, 04:16 PM

I'm cheap, probably too cheap, so I made my own hot water tank cleaning wand. I used a $2 jet nozzle that was laying around, stretched a 2 foot piece of windshield washer hose onto the end and screwed the contraption onto the end of my hose. I stick the washer hose into the anode rod opening, it "flops around" spraying the inside to rinse almost everything out. Then I unscrew the contraption from the hose and hold it over the end of my wet/dry vac and suck out anything that is left inside.

Works well and I assembled it from spare junk my DW keeps hounding me to throw away.... So far, I've been able to just shift it around in the pole barn and she "thinks" I'm making progress on reducing the volume of "spare parts" that she calls "junk"

Here's the nozzle I used:

Capebreton · 10-14-2013, 04:47 PM

Great ideas fella's, thanks for the help!

**hankpage** · 10-14-2013, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave & SUe

I don't see any thing that would keep it from going in.On ours,I have to push on the bottom edge just a little to start it.The long length of the rod will make it tip down as you try to get it started.Hope this helps some.

I don't see anything wrong with the threads on the female or male sides. I think your problem is what Dave & Sue suggested. It is a little tricky getting that first thread to catch because of the weight of the anode pulling down on the rod. If you push in hard you will feel the rod tip up and down ... when it feels level start turning it with your other hand. It is a knack you have to develop. You are better off opening a faucet to drain the tank ... the Temperature & Pressure relief valve (what I assume you called "check valve") can get debris in it and leak if it is opened too often.

Capebreton · 10-20-2013, 01:55 PM

DaveSue, you hit the nail on the head. A little pressure on the bottom and it threaded in no problem at all. I also used my shopvac with a small hose to suck any additional water and material at the bottom of the tank clean. Thanks for the help guys! Much appreciated.

Kirk

Capebreton · 10-20-2013, 02:28 PM

Other than draining my hot water heater completely, I just want to make sure that I don't need to add antifreeze to it? Thanks.

Festus2 · 10-20-2013, 02:32 PM

Now that you've drained the HW and cleaned it out with the Shop Vac, there is no need to fill it back up with pink stuff or add any. It will do quite well over the winter.

Capebreton · 10-20-2013, 02:54 PM

Thanks festus

**JRTJH** · 10-20-2013, 03:07 PM

You are better off NOT adding any antifreeze to your hot water tank. The RV antifreeze can cause oxidation of the anode increasing the amount of debris in the tank next spring and also increasing your probability of needing to replace the anode rod "again"

Chip999 · 10-22-2013, 05:44 AM

Does anyone know if there is a simple plug made for this hot water heater? I got in the habit of draining the heater after every trip with my old TT and want to continue that practice with this water heater. A simple nylon plug is much easier than that bulky anode rod that came with it when installing and removing on a regular basis.

Thanks!

**JRTJH** · 10-22-2013, 06:59 AM

Chip,

Any hardware store will have a brass plug to replace the anode rod, but are you sure you want to give up the corrosion protection afforded by the anode rod? Water heater tanks are expensive to replace and the only protection it has is that anode rod.

Chip999 · 03-20-2014, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Chip,

Any hardware store will have a brass plug to replace the anode rod, but are you sure you want to give up the corrosion protection afforded by the anode rod? Water heater tanks are expensive to replace and the only protection it has is that anode rod.

Makes sense. My old TT had a ceramic lined hot water heater, and an anode rod wasn't necessary because of that. What about draining after each trip, what do you think of that practice? I mean if we're one week in then back out next, I'm not going to drain, but if we are a few weeks in, probably would think about it.

vantage32fls · 03-20-2014, 06:11 PM

mine has a 10gal. so they say aluminum tank and no anode rod is needed. I did replace the plastic drain plug with a brass ball valve which is supposed to not work against the aluminum??

**JRTJH** · 03-20-2014, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vantage32fls

mine has a 10gal. so they say aluminum tank and no anode rod is needed. I did replace the plastic drain plug with a brass ball valve which is supposed to not work against the aluminum??

Yours is an Atwood HWH, they don't use an anode rod. The tank lining is an aluminum alloy compound and the anode rod if "built in" so to speak. The Suburban HWH requires an anode rod and removing it or replacing it with a plastic drain plug will shorten the tank life. Depending on the type of water used, the tank can fail in as short as a couple of years, however with "mineral free" water, it could last as long as one would with an anode rod and "bad water".

As for whether to drain the tank between uses, I don't. We have well water, not chlorinated, and subject to "spoiling" in storage. I usually add a bit of chlorine to the fresh water tank if we're not going to use the RV for several weeks, however, as short as the camping season is here, there's very few occasions when we're parked for more than a couple of days......

vantage32fls · 03-21-2014, 08:52 PM

we always stay at either Oregon state parks or private campgrounds, so I assume that it's chlorinated water, never drain the tank as we use it at least once or twice a month from May till October. Then drain at end of season.

Ram189 · 03-27-2014, 11:46 AM

On my old TT I would hold the hose nozzle kind of close an just spray up in the hot water heater to flush it out.
Spray up inside the tank, stop let it drain, repeat until it flows clear.

Usually only takes a time or two to keep it clean.

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