Destination Trailer Re-Leveling

[Lighthouse]

Hi everyone,

I have a 2021 Keystone Retreat 39FLFT.
When we bought the trailer it was delivered and set-up ( Leveled ).
The front jack was set with a concrete block and a 2x6 piece of wood.
We are in our 3rd season now and I am noticing that the jack has sunk
into the wood. I would like to replace the piece of wood with another
concrete block. What is the best method of doing that ? Should I jack up the
frame ? And if so, should I relieve the pressure on the stabilizer jacks first ?
Let me know what you think.

Thank You !

[jsb5717]

Probably more than one way to do this but if it were me I would pull up the stabilizers. If you have a vehicle with a hitch to use to hold the trailer nose up while you replace the brick then that would be easiest. Otherwise you'll need a decent bottle jack somewhere under the frame at the front or a jack stand to lower the frame onto. It won't take long to replace the block so anything that will safely suspend the tongue will get you there.

Get the block replaced, then reengage the tongue jack to level front to back. Then lower your stabilizers again.

[TXiceman]

The stabilizers are just that and not meant to support a lot of weight as in lifting the trailer.

Ken

[Lighthouse]

Thanks all for your comments.
I do have a jack so I go that route.

Thanks Again !

[notanlines]

If you plan on leaving the RV at that location you should buy concrete blocks to level and stabilize the RV and just retract the stabilizers and leave them alone. Your frame of the RV is much more firm.

[Lighthouse]

Notanlines,

Thanks, that makes sense, good advice !

[Kirk's Keystone Outback.]

Originally Posted by Lighthouse

Hi everyone,

I have a 2021 Keystone Retreat 39FLFT.
When we bought the trailer it was delivered and set-up ( Leveled ).
The front jack was set with a concrete block and a 2x6 piece of wood.
We are in our 3rd season now and I am noticing that the jack has sunk
into the wood. I would like to replace the piece of wood with another
concrete block. What is the best method of doing that ? Should I jack up the
frame ? And if so, should I relieve the pressure on the stabilizer jacks first ?
Let me know what you think.

Thank You !

It sounds like you're stationary, or have parked for a long period of time. My concern is flat spotting the tires. Just an observation.
Good Luck with Leveling.

[JRTJH]

The Retreat line is a "park model" with a removeable tongue. If the tongue is left in place, then the "crank down stabilizers" will help prevent movement when walking in the trailer. If the tongue is removed and skirting installed around the trailer (typical for park model homes), then the stabilizers don't have the strength to support the trailer weight at the ends of the frame.

If your tongue is still in place, then the tongue jack should support the front of the trailer while you raise the stabilizer to replace the wood (preferably with a concrete pad)... If the stabilizers are on the rear, then there is more weight forward of the axles and you can raise one at a time to replace the pad. The "tongue weight of the trailer" will offset the possibility that raising the rear stabilizer would allow the trailer to "tip onto the ground"... DO NOT RAISE A FRONT STABILIZER IF THE TONGUE JACK IS NOT IN PLACE AND SUPPORTING THE TONGUE WEIGHT !!!!! If the tongue jack is present, just crank it down until it touches the ground and raise the stabilizer jack to replace the pad.

I would think that if your trailer tongue has been removed, there are blocks under your frame rails and the "delivery team" just lowered the stabilizers as well as blocked the frame.... The stabilizers are not designed to support the weight of the trailer without the tongue jack in place.....

If your trailer is skirted, go to one of the vents, shine a flashlight into the vent and see if you can determine whether there are "frame rail blocks AND stabilizer jacks" or just stabilizer jacks.

[Carrottop]

I have the same trailer in the Residence line. You need to have three sets of blocks on each side to level the trailer properly. I have my tongue down on wood but in reality is is not needed. I have attached a photo of how the dealership did mine. It has not budged or sank at all. I would recommend this route.

[Kirk's Keystone Outback.]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The Retreat line is a "park model" with a removeable tongue. If the tongue is left in place, then the "crank down stabilizers" will help prevent movement when walking in the trailer. If the tongue is removed and skirting installed around the trailer (typical for park model homes), then the stabilizers don't have the strength to support the trailer weight at the ends of the frame.

If your tongue is still in place, then the tongue jack should support the front of the trailer while you raise the stabilizer to replace the wood (preferably with a concrete pad)... If the stabilizers are on the rear, then there is more weight forward of the axles and you can raise one at a time to replace the pad. The "tongue weight of the trailer" will offset the possibility that raising the rear stabilizer would allow the trailer to "tip onto the ground"... DO NOT RAISE A FRONT STABILIZER IF THE TONGUE JACK IS NOT IN PLACE AND SUPPORTING THE TONGUE WEIGHT !!!!! If the tongue jack is present, just crank it down until it touches the ground and raise the stabilizer jack to replace the pad.

I would think that if your trailer tongue has been removed, there are blocks under your frame rails and the "delivery team" just lowered the stabilizers as well as blocked the frame.... The stabilizers are not designed to support the weight of the trailer without the tongue jack in place.....

If your trailer is skirted, go to one of the vents, shine a flashlight into the vent and see if you can determine whether there are "frame rail blocks AND stabilizer jacks" or just stabilizer jacks.

John,
When you say "park model", or "residential", does that mean it's permanently parked?

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Kirk's Keystone Outback.

John,
When you say "park model", or "residential", does that mean it's permanently parked?

There is a class of Keystone trailers called "Destination Trailers"... Keystone likes to "separate them from Park Models" (more advertising than reality)...

They are typically bigger (102" wide) taller (11'4" to 11'11") and most are in the 40' length range.

IMO, some of the "weaknesses associated with them" that make regular towing and boondocking, etc impractical are things like the glass patio door as the main entry, 10K empty weight range, 1200+ tongue weight on 15" LRE tires, less than 1000 pound cargo capacity. Most are available with a "loft" and some have "double lofts" for sleeping and children's play areas.

Most have larger kitchens, many have "house type appliances" that don't work well for anything but being on a "permanent or semi-permanent site".

The two brands of Destination trailers Keystone markets are Residence and Retreat. They are "off-shoots" of the Springdale and Hideout lines. Most are built with wood frames, fiberglass insulation and "built in RV furniture"...

You can see what Keystone currently offers at this link: https://www.keystonerv.com/rv-type/destination-trailers

The last "destination trailer line" that Keystone advertised in brochure form, was the Residence in 2021. Here's the link to tge brochure for that brand: https://keystone-rv-dealer-app.cdn.p..._Dec20_WEB.pdf

Looking at the Keystone website, they may be moving away from the Destination lines of Residence and Retreat and incorporating some of those features and floorplans in Springdale and Hideout's larger trailer models... Who knows what 2024 will bring ??????

[Kirk's Keystone Outback.]

Wow,

I had no idea. I've seen them on the Keystone site, but couldn't imagine having to tow them on a regular basis, now I know why, because ya can't.

Thanks John for the explanation.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

There is a class of Keystone trailers called "Destination Trailers"... Keystone likes to "separate them from Park Models" (more advertising than reality)...

They are typically bigger (102" wide) taller (11'4" to 11'11") and most are in the 40' length range.

IMO, some of the "weaknesses associated with them" that make regular towing and boondocking, etc impractical are things like the glass patio door as the main entry, 10K empty weight range, 1200+ tongue weight on 15" LRE tires, less than 1000 pound cargo capacity. Most are available with a "loft" and some have "double lofts" for sleeping and children's play areas.

Most have larger kitchens, many have "house type appliances" that don't work well for anything but being on a "permanent or semi-permanent site".

The two brands of Destination trailers Keystone markets are Residence and Retreat. They are "off-shoots" of the Springdale and Hideout lines. Most are built with wood frames, fiberglass insulation and "built in RV furniture"...

You can see what Keystone currently offers at this link: https://www.keystonerv.com/rv-type/destination-trailers

The last "destination trailer line" that Keystone advertised in brochure form, was the Residence in 2021. Here's the link to tge brochure for that brand: https://keystone-rv-dealer-app.cdn.p..._Dec20_WEB.pdf

Looking at the Keystone website, they may be moving away from the Destination lines of Residence and Retreat and incorporating some of those features and floorplans in Springdale and Hideout's larger trailer models... Who knows what 2024 will bring ??????

102" is 8.5' My understanding was that 8' was the limit on highways. How are these trailers wider?

[Carrottop]

the dimensions are

Length
40.92 ft. (491 in.)

Width
8.5 ft. (102 in.)

Height
13.42 ft. (161 in.)

Weights
Dry Weight
13,013 lbs.

Payload Capacity
987 lbs.

GVWR
14,000 lbs.

Hitch Weight
1,445 lbs

My understanding from my dealer is that it is at the maximum width and height of vehicle. if it was any wider or taller it would require special transport. As said before these trailers are not meant to be towed other than from the dealer to the seasonal site they sit on. I cannot imagine anyone towing this as a regular travel trailer. Mine does not even have leveling jacks on it. The dealer put it on blocks when it was placed at the campsite.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

102" is 8.5' My understanding was that 8' was the limit on highways. How are these trailers wider?

Max width in TX is 8.5' (102") and is the same in FL. I don't know all the other states but I figure they're the same (at least) since the wide body RV (or boats) are sold nationwide.

[Alibaddy]

Originally Posted by Lighthouse

Hi everyone,

I have a 2021 Keystone Retreat 39FLFT.
When we bought the trailer it was delivered and set-up ( Leveled ).
The front jack was set with a concrete block and a 2x6 piece of wood.
We are in our 3rd season now and I am noticing that the jack has sunk
into the wood. I would like to replace the piece of wood with another
concrete block. What is the best method of doing that ? Should I jack up the
frame ? And if so, should I relieve the pressure on the stabilizer jacks first ?
Let me know what you think.

Thank You !

I would definitely relieve the pressure on all but the front jacks. Then raise the frame using a hydraulic jack positioned in the middle at the front. Use a jack rated for the expected front end.

[crowbar]

I drove truck in B.C. Alberta, Washington, Oregon, California, Idaho, and Nevada. The max width in all those jurisdictions was 102 inches whick is 8 foot 6 inches. (do the math). Only the max height was different in different states/provinces.