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Old 05-21-2020, 11:04 AM   #41
MikeRP
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I tend to think a little differently about these things. Like one of the above said, I would know your weights. So get it loaded like you are going camping and weight it.

You are selling your camper and you maybe 500-600 lbs below your GVWR on the one you have now. All these calculations were based on GVWR, but will you really load your camper to GVWR?

I recommend the equalizer hitch. It will help get weight off the rear of the truck onto the front axle.

Once you go to the CAT scales and get the actual weights. There maybe some changes if you are too heavy on the front for the truck. You might move heavy stuff to the rear of the camper and maybe, depending upon fresh water tank location, adding fresh water could lower weight on the hitch.

But like others said you want to stay at or above slightly above 10% of the trailer weight on the hitch.

You can add air bags and E rates tires to stiffen up the rear end of the truck if needed.

Now if you just want a new camper, then go get it. But if you like the old one, I think you will be able to make it work and be safe. Like take out items you haven’t used in a year. Work on your front to rear load balance. The Toyota is a capable truck. I wouldn’t sell your camper quite yet if you like it.
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Old 05-21-2020, 11:47 AM   #42
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I have the same Tundra, 2014 model Platinum, and the tow capacity is 10,600. We pull a 2017 Bullet Premier 31BKPR, 6800/8700. Added air bags, but only keep 5-10 lbs of pressure and the truck is level with the trailer. Loaded out for a 5 week out west trip, across the scales the TT weighed out 7700#. Out WD Hitch is a Fastway3 1000 Trunion square bar. We have pulled this camper through 33 States and 27,000 miles from California to New York and in the Montana mountains without one single problem. Also, we live in Arkansas and we camp at a lot of Ozark mountain State Parks, I mean lots of 14% grades up and down.
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Old 05-21-2020, 12:28 PM   #43
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You need to give reasons why you wouldn't get a Toyota, which is in fact the last American made truck (santa fe), and has the highest reliability rating of any truck, and, has a higher payload rating than other trucks of its size - 1850 pounds. FYI: Most Ford and Chev trucks are made in Brazil, Mexico and Canada. Do you have a problem with giving American workers jobs? Or is there some other reason? I have owned them all, and to be perfectly honest, it appears only people who haven't owned a better truck and think of the usual problems as normal feel the way you do. Life time reliability is meaningful. Any pos can make it 3 years without problems. Well, almost any. My Fords and Chevys never did.
Purchased my Tundra in 2012 to match up with trailer. Reliability was one of the major considerations, have never had any problem over the years and the truck has the tow package and works well with our Cougar trailer. When you move up in size of the trailer you also move up in the amount of wind sail you have following you, heavy trucks are the answer. Always stay within the numbers, discounting 1/2 ton trucks as tow vehicles when the are designed to tow is incorrect. The bigger and heavier the truck is the less you will feel the trailer you are towing but you pay in ride and cost.
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Old 05-21-2020, 12:30 PM   #44
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We have a Tundra and love it as a truck, but I'll be the first to tell you it wont work for your setup. Depending on configuration you may get one that is rated to tow the weight but the limitation is load carrying capacity of the truck. We learned the hard way on our first visit to a CAT scale with our 2020 Cougar 22RBS. The hitch weight is more than we expected and we had to make some hard decisions of what not to bring (like water in the camper and we boondock alot ) and we took almost everything out of the truck bed except folding chairs. We are now towing within specs and our setup rides well but there is little margin.
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Old 05-21-2020, 02:07 PM   #45
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I had a 2016 Tundra and now have a 2020 Both 5.7l, 10,000+ tow capacity, 1850 payload. My truck pulled a lighter trailer fine (4600 pound dry). I only noticed it in the the wind. But the crewmax has a lower tow capacity. I have owned every brand truck out there and in IMHO, the Toyota is the only one worth keeping. I got sick of repairs, breakdowns, computer problems, spark plug problems, check engine lights, etc., on all the other brands. Simply sell the trailer and get something smaller or a 5th wheel.
In your 1st sentence you mentioned 2 of the most useless weights that the truck & RV manufacturers can post, the max tow weight of a truck & RV dry weights.
The RV weighed that dry weight once when it rolled out the factory door then the delivery guy added a battery so the break away brakes were active then once at the dealership they added full propane bottles, at least one or 2 batteries & should test the holding tanks which will NEVER be dry again.
The truck max tow rated at 10k lbs, TT tongue weight run between 10-15% of GVWR meaning a 10k TT tongue would be 1000-1500lbs + 100+/- lbs for the hitch subtract that from 1850lb payload leaving 250-750lbs for everyone/everything you add to the truck that didn't come on it from the factory. Heavy stiffer tires, airbags which may level the ride height & improve handling add nothing to increase payload & weight difference of those add-ons subtract further from the payload.
I would agree with the Toyota & Nissan trucks as grocery getters, for the DIY handymans trip to the lumber yard, or towing a boat/utility trailer, but for rv towing you will need a real tow vehicle.
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Old 05-21-2020, 02:21 PM   #46
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You need to give reasons why you wouldn't get a Toyota, which is in fact the last American made truck (santa fe), and has the highest reliability rating of any truck, and, has a higher payload rating than other trucks of its size - 1850 pounds. FYI: Most Ford and Chev trucks are made in Brazil, Mexico and Canada. Do you have a problem with giving American workers jobs? Or is there some other reason? I have owned them all, and to be perfectly honest, it appears only people who haven't owned a better truck and think of the usual problems as normal feel the way you do. Life time reliability is meaningful. Any pos can make it 3 years without problems. Well, almost any. My Fords and Chevys never did.
My Ford was built in Kentucky
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Old 05-21-2020, 03:19 PM   #47
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Bbells, I’m calling BS on your entire post. My truck was made in Louisville, that’s in Kentucky, which I’m sure you didn’t know. I have toured the Ford plant in Michigan where American workers pump out 1,500 F-150’s EVERY freaking day! And it is not owned by the country that brought us Pearl Harbor!
Have just a speck of pride, man, don’t just make s&$t up.
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Old 05-21-2020, 03:52 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Logan X View Post
My Ford was built in Kentucky
+1 And I have had no issues with it @ 73K miles other than a fuel pump fuse.

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Bbells, I’m calling BS on your entire post. My truck was made in Louisville, that’s in Kentucky, which I’m sure you didn’t know. I have toured the Ford plant in Michigan where American workers pump out 1,500 F-150’s EVERY freaking day! And it is not owned by the country that brought us Pearl Harbor!
Have just a speck of pride, man, don’t just make s&$t up.
Amen!

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Old 05-21-2020, 03:57 PM   #49
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All in my opinion, I do have different thoughts about stickers on trucks or the trailer. I don’t see those stickers as mandates. It’s one point in time when the truck Or Camper leaves the factory.

So on my camper I have strengthened the suspension frame, added improvements to the slide mechanisms and many other improvements. It’s heavier but within tires specs. On my truck, I’ve added tires w a 4080 lb rating instead of 3640 out of the factory. I have a 300 lb hitch and a 350 lb extra fuel tank. The only thing I haven’t done is airbags.

So a 1500 series truck, one can have e rated tires that improve the load carrying ability of the tires, likewise air bags that keep the ride height level or a bit above keeping some weight on the front axle, one can upgrade the brakes to improve stopping power., etc.

Now I’m not saying that you can take a 150 and spec it up to out tow a 3500........ well.... well

Actually that has happened, my brother has a Ram 3500 that according to Ram and compared to Ford limits the weight to a few hundred lbs less than 150 or 1500 series trucks w the max tow package. To be fair the payload is over 4000 lbs and it will yank anything put behind it up to the tire limitations.

Most folks can’t assess the risk of doing these upgrades. Thus folks change trucks and camper and blow a lot of cash. I’m looking at myself in a mirror.

Why buy a 2500, it’s obsolete. Couple hundred bucks and you got a 3500 that rides just as well.

So In my humble opinion, the OP could make their truck very competent to handle that trailer. But if they are not comfortable, then they have to make a change.
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Old 05-21-2020, 05:02 PM   #50
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Old 05-21-2020, 05:13 PM   #51
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Yep, I think we just drifted past the impossible to the unbelievable. Wow, I'm dumping this new 3500, get me an old 1500, spend a couple hundred bucks and have me a 3500 PLUS my 70k back!! Unbelievable!!

I COULD tell you about Tundras but I'm busy at the moment.....
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Old 05-21-2020, 05:34 PM   #52
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Look it up folks, 2018 Ram 3500 CC SB 6.4 L gasser w .373 is 12450 lbs max tow.

The 150 Ford and Ram 1500 max Tow is above that.
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Old 05-21-2020, 05:36 PM   #53
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Look it up folks, 2018 Ram CC SB 6.4 L gasser w .373 is 12450 lbs max tow.

The 150 Ford and Ram 1500 max Tow is above that.


You really need to look at "real life" numbers vs dreamed up "max tow" numbers. Didn't the Tundra just pull the space shuttle right down the road....max tow?? Help me please.
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Old 05-21-2020, 09:59 PM   #54
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Look it up folks, 2018 Ram 3500 CC SB 6.4 L gasser w .373 is 12450 lbs max tow.

The 150 Ford and Ram 1500 max Tow is above that.
Yes that may be, but the 3500 will have a payload of 3k-4k where the 1/2 tons will have 1500-1800lb payloads which is why max tow numbers are totally useless to the RV owner.
This is the reason that truck salesman all spout max tow ratings & never point to the actual payloads posted on the door sticker, that and they don't have a clue about either of the numbers or any experience towing.
The max numbers are achieved by the manufacturers hauling low trailers loaded with blocks which in no way can be compared to towing any RV other than total weight.
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Old 05-22-2020, 01:58 AM   #55
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Yes that may be, but the 3500 will have a payload of 3k-4k where the 1/2 tons will have 1500-1800lb payloads which is why max tow numbers are totally useless to the RV owner.
This is the reason that truck salesman all spout max tow ratings & never point to the actual payloads posted on the door sticker, that and they don't have a clue about either of the numbers or any experience towing.
The max numbers are achieved by the manufacturers hauling low trailers loaded with blocks which in no way can be compared to towing any RV other than total weight.
Exactly my point I was making, my brothers Ram 3500 with a 4000+ payload, is way more competent than any 1500. I’d say the upper end of his truck is really towing around 15,000 lbs.

But if we do look at the OP’s original camper, if their Toyota is near the limit or over on payload with this camper, the truck can be strengthened to handle the payload because it’s not far out of the ratings.

Matter of fact it may not even be out if the ratings if the OP is careful on loading the camper w weight, works on load distribution with the camper and has a good equalizing hitch.

Peace
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Old 05-22-2020, 05:00 AM   #56
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Exactly my point I was making, my brothers Ram 3500 with a 4000+ payload, is way more competent than any 1500. I’d say the upper end of his truck is really towing around 15,000 lbs.

But if we do look at the OP’s original camper, if their Toyota is near the limit or over on payload with this camper, the truck can be strengthened to handle the payload because it’s not far out of the ratings.

Matter of fact it may not even be out if the ratings if the OP is careful on loading the camper w weight, works on load distribution with the camper and has a good equalizing hitch.

Peace
The bolded section of your statement will spark a debate among the "experienced" folks on this forum every time. While there's a great debate on the safety and possible ramifications of towing overloaded I know the vast majority here will not endorse doing so. That number on the door states what the "Tested" and deemed safe maximum capacity numbers are by the manufacturer, just like the load ratings on the tires. They are not suggestions. Claims that you can alter the towing capacity by changes in tires,air bags, and even springs get shot down constantly and here's the reasoning. When someone asks the question can I tow X with Y truck they are obviously seeking information that they do not know. Telling someone in that situation that gee, with these couple of add ons you can tow "just like" a larger truck is false and misleading. Following that advice could lead them to "grossly" overload their truck and get them into a dangerous situation.
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Old 05-22-2020, 06:46 AM   #57
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Would you put a new driver who got his learner's permit yesterday on a NASCAR track with 50 other cars all going well over 150 MPH and expect a good result???

What's the difference in putting a new RV'er with no towing experience in an ill equipped tow vehicle and a "too big trailer" on the PUBLIC highway with everything from 18 wheelers, school busses, speeding "new drivers with their first learner's permit" and MY FAMILY ????? Now, if you want, add in the "makeup appliers, cell phone talkers, texters, coffee drinkers, GARMIN inputers, "little old ladies" (and old fart men), SUV taxi moms filled with kids, and don't forget the drunk drivers, those with "socially acceptable medical marijuana" and any other distracted drivers, Oh and MY FAMILY ?????

Now, just how much "built in safety" is adding LT tires and air bags to a "barely adequate or overloaded truck OF ANY BRAND ??????

Any recommendation from this forum "ought to be responsibly written" not a "hey, hold my beer and watch this"...….. YMMV
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Old 05-22-2020, 07:42 AM   #58
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Some of us have been titled "weight police", when it comes to the safety of my family on the highways I will wear the badge proudly.
Folks can add every device on the market to their "not enough" truck, legally it'll still be overloaded, but if the worst happens then there's about 500 tv lawyers standing ready to sue your heiney off & in today's world don't think for a moment that it won't happen.
If it's my family is harmed by someone towing grossly overloaded I'm calling one of those lawyers.
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Old 05-22-2020, 08:13 AM   #59
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I can also tell you that I've seen numerous 3/4 tons pulling 5th wheel/ tow haulers that you know are overloaded and or at their max. Most have airbags added as well.
So again.....look at your trucks spec OEM towing chart; check your trailer specs than make an educated decision.
1/2 ton....3/4 ton whatever works for you-BUT be safe.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-22-2020, 11:47 AM   #60
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IMHO these sales people, RV & truck, that are misleading folks to buy a RV or truck that will not be able to tow or be towed safely should be held accountable.
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