Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Tech Forums > Keystone Questions
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-05-2020, 05:20 PM   #21
jalad12
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Vista
Posts: 27
So I disconnected the liquid propane from the furnace and removed the furnace. I checked the sale switch and it was clean and operational. I tested it for continuity with my multi meter and it tested OK. I noticed however that there were wood shavings in the area around the furnace as well as charred wood shavings in the furnace immediately below the exterior exhaust port. I’ve vacuumed these areas immediately. I turned on the furnace without hooking up the propane just to see what would happen. The blower started and I clearly heard the clicking of the igniter. The igniter cycled three times before the entire furnace turned off. At this point the red light on the circuitboard was flashing three flashes every three seconds. According to the sticker on the furnace this was an indication that the ignition was bypassed. I turn the unit off at the thermostat and 3 to 5 seconds later I heard a click at the air-conditioning unit. If everything I read is correct this is an indication that the furnace was now reset. I Placed the furnace back into its location and reconnected the ducks and the liquid propane line. I turned on the propane at the tank and turned on the furnace at the thermostat. The furnace worked properly and the propane ignited and before too long I had heat. I adjusted the temperature at the thermostat to see if the furnace would turn off on its own. I cycled the furnace three times in this manner and each of the three times it turned off and then back on. It worked properly all three times giving me heat.

I don’t know what I did to get it to work. Perhaps vacuuming the debris from inside helped or perhaps moving the wires around and making sure the connections were tight possibly could’ve done something. As it stands now I’m taking the unit out during Christmas week and I’ll test it before we leave. I will not however cancel my appointment with the dealership in case the problem flares up again while we’re on the road. Thanks to everyone for your input and if you think you have an idea as to why it started working again please let me know thank you
jalad12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2020, 06:23 PM   #22
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,836
Someone several months ago was describing the process they went through removing, checking and reinstalling their furnace. I remember one comment they included in their description: "There was a decal on the side of the furnace case that said "Hit here with hammer" (or something along those lines)...

While I don't know for sure if there really was a decal on the furnace case, it does bring to light a well known "troubleshooting technique":

If all else fails, use a bigger hammer.......

In your situation, you may have "reseated the loose connector or plugged in the loose wire or freed up the binding sail switch or ????? In any case, you may never know what "fixed" your furnace, but as long as it's working, another old saying "rings true":

Don't look a gift horse in the mouth.....

Glad you got it working, hopefully you'll stay "toasty warm" on that trip !!!!!
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2020, 07:55 PM   #23
jalad12
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Vista
Posts: 27
. You are correct! It’s working and that’s all I care about (no hammer necessary)!
jalad12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2020, 08:32 PM   #24
bobbecky
Senior Member
 
bobbecky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,897
You also might make a note, that your propane lines are strictly propane gas in its gaseous state, not liquid. No where in your trailer should you have any liquid propane except for in the propane cylinders.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
bobbecky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2020, 10:11 AM   #25
jalad12
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Vista
Posts: 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbecky View Post
You also might make a note, that your propane lines are strictly propane gas in its gaseous state, not liquid. No where in your trailer should you have any liquid propane except for in the propane cylinders.
Thanks! That was a faux pas on my part. I know it’s gas, I wrote LP as a short cut. You make me realize that others read this and I should be as accurate as possible to avoid confusion.
jalad12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2020, 04:00 PM   #26
mm01moose
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Port Saint Joe
Posts: 2
Smile Fixed Heater Issue 2020 Keystone Raptor 356

I pulled the sail switch and cleaned it up with air hose attachment and installed it back into the chamber and the heater worked. I tested it twice to make sure it turned off and then on again without making the reset switch turn off. Hopefully it will work like it should this evening when the temperature drops. Thanks everyone that helped list suggestions regarding having heating issues! This forum definitely helps us diy to fix things ourself without paying the outrageous cost per hour for RV Repair! Merry Christmas!
mm01moose is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2020, 06:29 PM   #27
LHaven
Senior Member
 
LHaven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Wickenburg
Posts: 3,270
Quote:
Originally Posted by mm01moose View Post
I own a 2020 Keystone Raptor 356. Trying to troubleshoot, as to why my propane heater will turn on but will not ignite and then will click off. The propane tanks are full and stove works. I pulled outside cover and hit reset switch and it started and reached temp and when it turned on again it would not ignite. Checked black 15 amp fuse and then switched it to a blue 15 amp fuse. It ignited and then it reached temp and turned off but it would not ignite back up when heat turned it on. Do I need to check sail switch? Any advice as what could be wrong? I just had the year warranty work done and dealer stated everything worked correctly. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
So it always works the first cycle but never the subsequent cycles? My go-to answer of "it's the sail switch" may fail me here.

Do you hear the snap-snap-snap of it attempting to ignite, or not? If it's snapping, the sail switch and temp sensor should be OK, and you should look for a propane feed problem. If not, I'd rank the possibilities as temp sensor, circuit board, and really creative fouling in the sail switch (to work the first time but not afterwards).

Edit: Sorry for chiming in late, I plumb missed seeing there was a second page to the thread.
__________________
2019 Cougar 26RBSWE
2019 Ford F-250
LHaven is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2020, 06:30 AM   #28
ChuckS
Senior Member
 
ChuckS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Home, Idaho
Posts: 2,975
The one issue with “cleaning” the sail switch is... you can’t possibly clean the small contacts inside that relay.

You can remove dust and animal hair and such BUT... the contacts have most likely arced a bit because of the interference from the junk that prevented sail switch paddle arm from moving far enough to depress that micro switch and properly close the contacts.

They are pitted and now have a higher resistance then clean new contact surface would... this in turn will only continue to increase in resistance and the sail switch will soon not be able to properly complete the electrical path to complete the circuit...

I’d order a new sail switch and have on hand
__________________


2007 GMC Classic club cab 4x4 Duramax LBZ
2014 Alpine 3010 RE. 34 foot fifth wheel
ChuckS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2020, 06:30 AM   #29
gkainz
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 708
My first go-to response to troubleshooting the furnace (any gas appliance, actually) is "check and clean the nozzle" ... spiders LOVE to spin webs in or near the outlet. Doesn't take much of a web to screw up the gas flow enough to not light or cause inconsistent behavior.

It's also WAY easier than checking the sail switch, testing the board or pulling the furnace to bench test.

I have to disassemble and clean the gas nozzle on my gas smoker at least every spring or I get a really smokey yellow flame.

A buddy just threw a WHOLE bunch of parts on an indoor gas fireplace/stove in his mountain cabin only to finally clean the jet with good results. He's now got a tool box full of spare parts.
__________________
2010 Laredo 245RL
2007 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD 4x4
Andersen Ultimate Gooseneck mount
gkainz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2020, 06:46 AM   #30
ChuckS
Senior Member
 
ChuckS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Home, Idaho
Posts: 2,975
But in an RV furnace unless it has an outside access panel you can’t get to anything without pulling the furnace ... the burner assy is buried inside with the ignitor/ flame sensor
__________________


2007 GMC Classic club cab 4x4 Duramax LBZ
2014 Alpine 3010 RE. 34 foot fifth wheel
ChuckS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2020, 03:04 PM   #31
jlonginav
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Aliso Viejo Ca
Posts: 108
I had the same issues being described in this thread. Last spring I changed out the control board for a Dinosaur version. So far this winter, no issues
__________________
jlonginav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2020, 03:27 PM   #32
jasin1
Senior Member
 
jasin1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Upper Chesapeake Bay
Posts: 4,804
I am a residential hvac contractor. I have very little experience with rv systems. Most here know more then I do. I did notice that suburban furnaces control boards look for a minimum of 9.5 volts at the board in order to work. If not it goes into standby mode until it see’s at least 9.5 ...I wonder if ground issues can cause low voltage intermittent problems at the furnace
__________________
2020 Cougar 315 RLS
2020 Ram 3500 6.7HO 4.10 Dually Aisin
jasin1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
heat, heater

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:33 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.