Inside LED light strip Valance fell off!

[geb52]

This past summer I noticed the top of my slide which held the stove and refrigerator was not coming in all the way. Never noticed that the valance (or trim panel) was missing on the above LED light strip. I got a step stool to looked up there and saw the valance lying on top of the slide, keeping it from coming in all the way. (Wow, how did that fall off with all those nails sticking out of it??)

The valance is not damaged at all. I just need to take the nails out and then nail it back up.

My question is, does anyone know what air pressure setting I should use with my trim nail gun? I don’t want to shoot a trim nail through the thin walled 2017Montana 3661RL

[jsb5717]

I had to reapply a couple thin trim strips and used a stapler rather than a nail gun to avoid going through.

[geb52]

Originally Posted by jsb5717

I had to reapply a couple thin trim strips and used a stapler rather than a nail gun to avoid going through.

For the 1” thin trim strips, I would use a stapler too or short finishing nails. But this is like crown molding. It’s a lot heavier. The nails Keystone put in stick out about an inch from the molding. I didn’t know if anyone has experienced the same thing and how to repair it w/o going to Camping World where it would sit for two to three months!
Thanks for your advice.

[JRTJH]

I'm not sure exactly which piece of molding you're talking about, so this may not apply to what you're trying to reattach... That said, if it's the header on the top of the slide, if it's a cable operated slide, you'll need to remove it to access the "emergency drive system" if there is a problem with the motor or the wiring. So, it may be a good time to drill holes, and use screws to reinstall it.

If it is the "access to the cable drive system" I'd be inclined to drill holes for the screw threads and also 1/4" holes for wood plugs to cover the screws.

[geb52]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I'm not sure exactly which piece of molding you're talking about, so this may not apply to what you're trying to reattach... That said, if it's the header on the top of the slide, if it's a cable operated slide, you'll need to remove it to access the "emergency drive system" if there is a problem with the motor or the wiring. So, it may be a good time to drill holes, and use screws to reinstall it.

If it is the "access to the cable drive system" I'd be inclined to drill holes for the screw threads and also 1/4" holes for wood plugs to cover the screws.

As soon as I can figure out how to send pictures, I will. I've taken 5 that will give you a better understanding about what I'm referring to. Just don't know how to put them as attachments on this forum. If someone can tell me where to look for instructions, I can get them to you.

[jsb5717]

Below Quick Reply, click on Go Advanced. At the bottom click on Manage Attachments

[ctbruce]

There's a sticky about how to do pictures in the new members area.
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

[Roscommon48]

I had problems trying to get nails into the trim boards.



If you are concerned about psi try to do a couple of tests on the board before you put it up.

[CedarCreekWoody]

To answer your original question I usually use a narrow crown staple gun at 60 psi. BUT you might want to consider screws with stainless decorative washers that you often see on marine applications. They hold good, look good, and easily remove if needed.

[geb52]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

To answer your original question I usually use a narrow crown staple gun at 60 psi. BUT you might want to consider screws with stainless decorative washers that you often see on marine applications. They hold good, look good, and easily remove if needed.

I have one of them too. Guess I'll remove the original nails then try the staple gun at 60 psi in a different location on the board to see how it handles the food. I'm still working getting the pictures on this thread.

Thanks for your help.

[geb52]

I copied the pictures using attachments. Hope this is the correct way to do this. Now you can see the type of wood and location that I'm referring to.

[sourdough]

just looking it appears those are either 16 or 18 gauge staples (maybe brad nails?)...thinking maybe 16. I would pull the old ones, note the line they were stapled into (I'm worried about what that was since it fell off) and make sure there is something to staple into.

With a trim piece like that I think I would probably go with the brad nails into a known support behind the wall vs the staples since trying to make those look "nice" when covering the holes can sometimes be difficult. With the depth of that wood, unless just pure mush wood, I would run at least 75psi for a 16ga nail and check it. You want it to sink a bit to allow sealing of the hole. If it was the front facia board I would think that screws would be the appropriate fastener but with this location you just want it to go up and stay it appears. JMO

[chuckster57]

It seems like the factory likes to use 24G on lots of things. I use an 18g Brad nailer. A little putty on the Brad holes and it’s “better than factory”!!

[JRTJH]

This looks like a "decision waiting to be made" kind of situation. This is NOT the fascia header that I was thinking about (on the top of the slide) that you can see in your photo, about 8" above the refrigerator. So, what did "fall off" is more a "light cover/corner molding" than it is a functional strip.

The only reason you'd need to remove it in the future is to replace the LED strip lighting behind it. So (to me) the "decision to be made" is whether to use some type of adhesive or to just use brads/staples to reattach it.

It looks like two pieces of wood and I'd suspect that the small 3/4x3/4 inch square strip was stapled in place, the LED strip installed on that (or laid on that) and then the outer molding strip was stapled in place.

The "problem" is that in the area where it's attached, all you have to hold it is 1/8" luan paneling that's bonded to Styrofoam insulation. There are aluminum "square tubing frame members" in the area, but whether a "light gauge staple/brad" will penetrate that aluminum or just deflect and bend ???

I'd cut off the existing "staple ends" to get a smooth rear surface, apply a light coat of adhesive (similar to clear silicone or ???) to the back surface, use some 1.5" 18 ga or 24 ga staples in places where there are no "existing staples" (so they are located in "fresh luan"). As for pressure, depending on the equipment you're using, I'd start around 45 PSI with a "test staple" and adjust up from there. There's little chance of pushing a staple through the vinyl wrapped MDF but depending on the gauge of your staples, you might split the "real wood outer strip".....

If you do use adhesive and find in the future that you need to remove the strip, you'll need to use a razor blade/X-acto knife to cut the vinyl coating on the wallboard so you won't peel the wallpaper away when pulling down the strip. Otherwise, it should "stay in place this time"....

[jarnold60]

I had the same problem except it was just one end that came loose. I tried some construction adhesive but it did not hold. I guess I will have to try some brads.