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Old 05-24-2020, 11:07 AM   #21
JRTJH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood View Post
FWIW I tried using some of the FlexSeal spray filler to stop a leaking gutter on the house. I put on three coats, waiting for each to dry between applications. And the gutter still leaks.

I would not use FlexSeal anything on something I really wanted to protect.
All of my gutter seams still leak as well. I've got 2 to 3 coats of Flex Seal on all of them. This year, when it warms up a bit more, I'm buying a couple tubes of DICOR self leveling and fix my "gutter problems" that Flex Seal couldn't.
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Old 05-26-2020, 01:15 AM   #22
Hugo-H
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I have some similar problems on my roof... but in the US they name products differently I see...
And since I want to care for my recently obtained 31 BHPR very much, I want to make sure I use the rights products and the right methods from the first time.
You mentioned about "removing" the old sealer and apply Dicor, while time ago someone told me not the remove the old sealer, but apply Dicor on top of it... what's the difference? (over time I guess...)
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Old 05-26-2020, 04:47 AM   #23
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Hugo,

DICOR is one of the few sealants that will adhere to itself. The "general guidance" from DICOR is to clean the sealant beads, carefully inspect the margins and remove any "non-adherent" sealant by cutting it away "back to where it adheres to the surface properly". Once that is accomplished, wipe down the sealant surface with alcohol (or other approved solvent) to remove all contaminats, oils or grease that might have come from fingers, gloves, etc. Allow that to dry, then apply a fresh coat of DICOR sealant directly over the surface, overlapping the old sealant, allowing at least a 1" margin of fresh sealant in contact with the surface being covered.

DICOR self-levelling and DICOR non-leveling sealant are compatible with each other and there is no need to remove "all the old sealant". The company suggests that any "damaged or non-adherent sealant be removed before fresh sealant is applied to the surface.

It's my understanding that anything with silicone in it will not adhere to itself. I do not use any sealant with silicone on my RV "anywhere"... And, I completely avoid the $1.99 tubes of "latex caulking with silicone" for use on anything I own. Whether it's a "knot hole in an old lawn chair" or a loose piece of vinyl siding, that crap is exactly that: CRAP.
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Old 05-26-2020, 10:43 AM   #24
EMTPRescue
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Why re-invent the wheel

Dicor exists for a reason. The two different rubber materials used on RV roofs are also used for a reason. Why on God's green earth would you even want to risk damaging your RV's roofing material by "experimenting' with an infomercial "Johnny come lately" imitation. Dicor seals, adheres, is UV resistant and most importantly remaining very flexible for years. I just took off solar panels I mounted 6 yrs ago on our 2014 Jayco and the Dicor is still flexible. I think your are nuts using anything that the industry has not embraced. Roof leaks are the number one cause for an RV being deemed worthless. Don't even think the risk is worth it.
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Old 05-26-2020, 04:25 PM   #25
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I keep a 25' roll of Durabond on hand just in case for emergencies. I used a clear Flex seal product on an awning & it turned yellow. You get what you pay for.
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