Anyone have photos of the bedroom slide out mechanism?

DocData757 · 06-17-2012, 05:41 PM

I'd like to see what the slide out mech looks like under the bed in the Alpine 5vrs to see if there is a safe way to reclaim some of that lost space.

Anyone got any pics?

geo · 06-18-2012, 02:21 PM

Dave -

I'm disappointed! You didn't think about me for obscure Alpine photo info? Here's a couple of photos. The chip-board covering the slides has two screws holding it in place. It is not any part of the structural component of the bed. The wheel tracks will give you the needed measurement of the slide travel. When extended, you have to measure that distance back from the head of the bed for slide travel. Note the power and hydraulic lines that come up from the front compartment. There's no insulation under that part of the floor. I finished adding insulation this weekend. You need to stay clear of those lines.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Ron

turbopilot51 · 06-18-2012, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DocData757

I'd like to see what the slide out mech looks like under the bed in the Alpine 5vrs to see if there is a safe way to reclaim some of that lost space.

Anyone got any pics?

When I installed the Sleep Number bed in my 3500RE I found out there is not much room under the the bed. Most of the space is taken up by the slide mechanism. I ended up putting the bed air pump on the ledge towards the head board. Do not remove the chip board at the head board. There is some tension on it and it is a pain to put it back!

DocData757 · 06-19-2012, 04:11 AM

That's where I have met pump uint for my SN bed as well. I was hoping to add a sliding door to the sides or ends to access some of that space for misc. storage but from the photos there is little space to claim.

Thanks!

geo · 06-19-2012, 04:39 AM

Yes, there is not much usable space due to the slides and the bed travel. The chip-board I referred to is the one under the bed that covers the slide area. Mine was held in place by two screws about 18" apart at the foot of the bed. Mine was very easy to remove. And putting access openings in the sides or end would be a bad idea since that is the support structure for the slide and the bed. I do have pictures of the head area from when I installed some wiring. Let me know if you want to see them.

Ron

DocData757 · 06-19-2012, 04:46 AM

I'd take whatever photos you have. You can never have too much info!

Thanks!

Roberson4 · 06-19-2012, 05:02 AM

I agree there is not much space to claim. Never the less I did claim what I could. The DW keeps some "rainy day games" hidden in the camper. This seemed like the perfect place for them.

All I did was remove the screws. Added 4 hinges. Cut a piece of PVC to help hold the bed up. I had 2 cardboard boxes that were the perfect size, just needed to be cut down in height.

geo · 06-19-2012, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DocData757

I'd take whatever photos you have. You can never have too much info!

Thanks!

Dave -

This is a shot of the slide hydralic slick rod connection under the head of the bed. Note that this is just an angle iron braced into the floor of the slide. Note that this "whole scene" moves with the slide. The chip-board you see under the slide slick rod is the "floor" of the slide.

I started having problems with the lower part of the slide deploying, but the slide awning was putting just enough tension to hold the top of the slide in. My attempt to correct this by putting a wood 1x4 across the head of the bed level with the bed sides, plus a couple of cross-members going back to the bed's cross-member. Didn't really work well for long. The final fix - as DW extends the slides, I push on the top of the slide frame to start it deploying.

If you, or anyone else, decide to go here, you MUST secure the "liftable" part of the bed platform. Use either two screws to secure the sides of the liftable part of the bed platform, or (my recommendation) use three screws - one on each side and one at the foot of the bed frame. This will lock the bed platform in place and keep the gas lift cylinders down.

Let me know if there is any other part of the Alpine you need to see. Just remember, my shots are 3640RL specific. For example, did you know the rear fiberglass cap acts as an air scoop (Inside_rear_cap.jpg)?

Ron

geo · 06-19-2012, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roberson4

I agree there is not much space to claim. Never the less I did claim what I could. The DW keeps some "rainy day games" hidden in the camper. This seemed like the perfect place for them.

All I did was remove the screws. Added 4 hinges. Cut a piece of PVC to help hold the bed up. I had 2 cardboard boxes that were the perfect size, just needed to be cut down in height.

Roberson4 -

Have you thought about notching the ends of the PVC pipe to provide a little more stability?

Ron

Roberson4 · 06-19-2012, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geo

Roberson4 -

Have you thought about notching the ends of the PVC pipe to provide a little more stability?

Ron

No, had not thought about it. Makes sense though.

Paul

DocData757 · 06-19-2012, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geo

Let me know if there is any other part of the Alpine you need to see. Just remember, my shots are 3640RL specific. For example, did you know the rear fiberglass cap acts as an air scoop (Inside_rear_cap.jpg)?

Ron

Scooping air why and for what?

geo · 06-19-2012, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DocData757

Scooping air why and for what?

Dave -

That's a great question! For what?

Look under the rear of your Alpine underneath. The fiberglass cap is just screwed into the structural member between the I-beams. And it is not sealed or even a close fit! Besides, at both side "ends" the cap is "open to the outside" from below the outer skirt. When I installed the Sirius and WiFi Booster, I just ran the wires into this open area and into the underbelly!

So, anytime the wind blows in the right direction, or if you are running down the road, the fiberglass cap is catching the air and channeling it into the underbelly area and up the rear wall! I found only fiberglass insulation between the rear wall and the fiberglass cap (and not really that much) in my unit. Also, if you look, the front of the underbelly area is open behind the WaterWorks area to the utility basement, and then into the living space! So, not a direct route, but an "S" route, air from outside (or mice, etc.) have a channel to enter the living area. In the same light, since cooler air sinks, all that A/C we pour into our units down here in Texas just runs out the bottom of the Alpine!

Ron

sandy43 · 06-20-2012, 01:12 PM

geo, your correct about the back cap. I even looked at a Mobile Suit and it's exactly the same. They all cut corners. I have some aluminum a/c tape that I used to close the scoop with. It's working so far with about 2K on it. Ref the front underbelly, mine is designed a little different than yours. The underbelly around the water works is sealed pretty good. Theirs no open areas from outside to inside. It appears to be very tightly closed. Hopefully I understood your statement correctly.

rudythegreat · 07-06-2012, 09:17 PM

That, my fellow 5er is just gorgeous !!! I had to refurbish my new Keystone bed slide, so I will look at that perfect idea also.

randy69 · 07-12-2012, 03:53 PM

My bed is not a slide out. The closet is I like what you did but they make shocks to hold the bed up. Mine has these. Lev361 toy box

Roberson4 · 07-12-2012, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randy69

My bed is not a slide out. The closet is I like what you did but they make shocks to hold the bed up. Mine has these. Lev361 toy box

Not sure if you are talking to me or not, but. The shocks would make it easier for the kids to raise the bed up and look under there.

The only thing we keep under there right now is 'rainy day' games and whatever else the wife has bought them and wants to keep hidden.
If we stored something else under there I would probably buy some shocks to make it easier.

You may also like: