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Old 05-20-2021, 03:05 AM   #1
Weldon
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EZ Lube Question

I have EZ lube hubs, but I still repacked all bearings by hand last weekend. When I have fully reassembled the hub, am I supposed to then use the zerk and pump grease until I see it coming out the top of the front bearing? I used a lot of red tacky grease when I repacked the bearings but didn't put any additional grease using the zerks when done (i.e. slowly spinning hub assembly while pumping grease). Since I'm replacing with better seals and nev-r adjust brakes on sunday, I'd rather not touch my hubs again for a year after this weekend.
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Old 05-20-2021, 03:18 AM   #2
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Don’t use the zerk and don’t pump any grease.
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Old 05-20-2021, 03:38 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Don’t use the zerk and don’t pump any grease.
As always, you give me exact info I need. Much appreciated.
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Old 05-20-2021, 03:49 AM   #4
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Red and Tacky grease is one of the best out there and its all I've used for decades.. If you cleaned, inspected and hand packed those bearings properly then there is NO reason for 12K miles to touch the brakes and certainly not the EX Lube Zerks...

One of the Key things when you put that hub back on and install the axle nut is Torque the axle nut to 50 ft lbs and THEN BACK OFF and Finger tighten the axle nut and install the EZ lube axle nut keeper spring clip...

My OEM Dexter bearings and races have well over 35K miles on them .. cleaned and hand packed once a year for the last 8 years. they look like new
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Old 05-20-2021, 04:10 AM   #5
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Weldon, you've gotten great advice. NEVER use the zerks. They are designed for marine use.
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Old 05-20-2021, 06:35 AM   #6
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never Never NEVER USE THE EZ LUBE SYSTEM !!!!!

The discussion last night about "single lip seals" and "double lip seals" has a direct implication on the EZ Lube system. The double lip seals (7 PSI rating) are required to "hopefully keep the grease from leaking past the seal. The single lip seals (3 PSI) just don't stand a chance of protecting your trailer brakes from being contaminated....

Take a look at the diagram and you'll see the ONLY defense against high pressure grease being forced out the back of the spindle/hub/bearing system is that grease seal. As you "pump grease at 1500 PSI into the zerk, it flows through the center of the spindle, hits the rear grease seal and is "exuded through the bearings" and back to the weep ports around the spindle.

THE ONLY DEFENSE AGAINST CONTAMINATION IS THE DOUBLE LIP SEAL...

NEVER TRUST A RUBBER SEAL TO KEEP YOUR STEEL/METALLIC COMPOUND BRAKES CLEAN !!!!!
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Old 05-20-2021, 08:38 AM   #7
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"never Never NEVER USE THE EZ LUBE SYSTEM"

This is the best advice!
If you don't have the time, ability or $$ to have them hand packed then wait til you do, but DO NOT use the EZ Lube zerks.
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Old 05-20-2021, 08:51 AM   #8
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Ask a question, and you better be ready for the reply. My new double lip seals will be here tomorrow by EOD. On Sunday, I'll replace the single lip seals i put on last weekend with the new doubles, and will replace the brake plates (as mentioned, new nev-r adjust dexter brakes) as well. I'll spray down the hubs and brakes with brake cleaner afterwards.

I didn't use the EZ Lube system, but that "i wonder" question was in the back of my mind. I'm glad I asked. Now there is no doubt ( none whatsoever) that I will continue to NOT use it.

I appreciate all the feedback. John, I really like that diagram. Very helpful.

I have officially put the EZ Lube system on the blacklist. Why would they include this on a TT if you're supposed to never use it?
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Old 05-20-2021, 10:26 AM   #9
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Think of it this way, before the Ez lube system folks pulled the hubs, cleaned, inspected, relubrication, install new seals, install hubs. If you do that, then there should be no reason to "add more" grease. Wheel bearings on the steer axles of vehichles and the axles on trailers have been maintained this way for well over a century.


The Ezlube system in theory is great as you can just pump in fresh grease as the "old grease" comes out the front. In reality, the force required to "push out" that existing grease thru the bearings and out the relief hole will overcome he force required to blow out the inner seal and push grease into the brake drum.
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Old 05-20-2021, 10:58 AM   #10
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I actually removed the zerks & replaced with 1/8" pipe plugs so NO ONE could pump grease into them.
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Old 05-20-2021, 02:11 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
I actually removed the zerks & replaced with 1/8" pipe plugs so NO ONE could pump grease into them.
That Sir is an excellent idea.
When I am cleaning the bare spindles I will pump a couple shots of grease through the EZ Lube zerk and wipe it off. I just don't like the idea of that old grease sitting in there. They call me Mr. Anal.
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Old 05-20-2021, 06:44 PM   #12
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I like to show this video made by Dexter Axle showing how to lube a wheel bearing.. the thing to note in this video is… it’s an EZ lube axle yet they made the video showing the bearing being packed by hand..

And yes.. they also made a video showing how to use the EZ lube feature.

Video link…

https://youtu.be/GnH-h3W9XvI
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Old 05-20-2021, 08:58 PM   #13
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This video from Timken actually says not fill the void between the inner and outer bearing.
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Old 06-01-2021, 09:25 AM   #14
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Ez lube axels

I'm a retired marine mechanic.
We always used the Ez lube fittings.
Boat trailers get submerged in water fresh & salt.
We never had any problems other than ware & tare
30 + years my boat, Utility or Rv. Trailers the same treatment.
I do use marine wheel bearing grease.
Just use a hand operated grease gun.
Occasionally a seal failure but after many years.
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Old 06-01-2021, 02:07 PM   #15
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From what I can remember from my last boat trailer with BEARING BUDDIES used on boat trailers & EZ Lube system on rvs are different animals. The BB systems were spring loaded to keep the water pushed out. The EZ Lube is not, the grease is forced through with pressure from the grease gun, very often right past the seal.
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Old 06-01-2021, 02:25 PM   #16
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Bearing Buddies and EZ Lube are 2 different animals. As previously stated with EZ Lube you will pump grease through the zerk and through a horizontally drilled passage in the spindle, then through a radially drilled passage so that the grease comes out between the inboard bearing and the grease seal. Continuing to pump the grease will fill the hub void between the inboard and out board bearing until you see the grease appear through the outboard bearing rollers.
Bearing buddies do nothing more than keep the hub pressurized to help keep water out.
Vault hubs are an improved version of Bearing Buddies and what comes on many new boat trailers in my area. I have them on a tandem axle boat trailer and love them.
http://haulritetrailers.net/wp-conte...T-HUBS-002.jpg
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Old 06-06-2021, 08:38 AM   #17
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Ez lube axels & bearing buddys

Exactly different systems.
Most boat trailers have a EZ lube type systems
Older ones use Bearing Buddy's.
Some EZ Lube styles are lube though.
Fixed hub cap with a zerk fitting, with a hole out the back of the axel stub.
You pump grease through till new grease comes out.
Either way you grease your Bearing just be consistent.
As for automobiles
I have rarely repacked the front hubs unless I'm changing rotors.
Sold a 2004 Express 2500 with 198k miles never had to replace rotors .
Original grease from the factory.
It's seal failure that causes problems.
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Old 06-06-2021, 08:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjsibe View Post
Exactly different systems.
Most boat trailers have a EZ lube type systems
Older ones use Bearing Buddy's.
Some EZ Lube styles are lube though.
Fixed hub cap with a zerk fitting, with a hole out the back of the axel stub.
You pump grease through till new grease comes out.
Either way you grease your Bearing just be consistent.
As for automobiles
I have rarely repacked the front hubs unless I'm changing rotors.
Sold a 2004 Express 2500 with 198k miles never had to replace rotors .
Original grease from the factory.

It's seal failure that causes problems.
Seriously? What year vehicle was the last one with bearings that you could repack? They're all hub assemblies now. The last one I remember doing was on my 1971 Pontiac Grand Prix.
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Old 06-06-2021, 02:27 PM   #19
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Old 06-13-2021, 06:35 PM   #20
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Smile Wheel Bearing Failure

I have concluded that wheel bearings should be replaced about every 5 to 10K miles or sooner if you have driven in Louisiana, Ohio, or any other road that has large pot holes and wide expansion joints. Regardless of how much grease is in a bearing nothing can stop the damage to the bearing when the wheel is continuously hammered for miles with the weight of the trailer. My brother in law packs his wheel bearings before every trip. He has had two wheel bearing failures. I pack my wheel bearings about every 10K miles and have had a bearing failure. The amount of grease is important but when you experience rough roads the bearings will shatter. Another surprise is the bearings are not USA. They are more than likely Chinese made. Just a tip from and old man who has owned 6 campers.:
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