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Old 01-29-2021, 12:32 PM   #1
Marty - Eureka
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Eureka, CA
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Dometic™ DMC4101 RV 12V DC Electric Refrigerator

Had notice the pipes were really rusted and pitted on our 8 year old gas absorption refrig. Rather then wait for a leak, we replaced it with the Dometic DMC4101 12 volt electric refrigerator. Liked the larger capacity, no gas usage or burning, and no issue with leaving on while driving.

We have 650 watts of solar and recently upgraded to four 100 amp hour litium batteries. Prior to the litium, our normal daily power usage averaged less than 10% of the 410 amp hours available from 4 golf cart 6 volts. We were able to recharge even under the worst conditions, so feel the additional power usage of the 4101 should be no problem for our system.

The 4101 fit through the 24 inch front door, 3/8 of an inch to spare. But, we had to take the doors off to lift into the cabinet, because of a shelf on the wall across from the cabinet. The doors come off easily, removing 5 bolts; but did take some adjusting to latch correctly when putting it back together. The 4101 fit into the location of the old refrig with no modification to the cabinet. The doors are a couple of inches thicker than the old refrig, so slightly narrowed the step up area into the bedroom, but feel there shouldn't be any problems. There was a gray tank vent piipe that angled into the back of the refrig compartment and went up into the refrig vent. With the old refig there was space for this, but the 4101 would run into this pipe blocking it from being fully installed. I ordered some two inch flexiable vent material to replace the riigid pvc which allowed it to bend into the corner. The old refrig's power was a 12 gauge wire which also powered the furnace. I decided to run new 10 gauge wire for the 4101 and moved the furnace to a seperate fuse.

After installing solar system, I had just turned off the breaker for the converter and left the battery charging to the solar system. But, with the litium batteries and higher power usage with the frig, decided to replace the OEM power conveter with a litium rated conveter since I had to pull out the power center anyway. Now we'll get full charge if we need to run the generator.

Have only run the 4101 for a couple of hours to test it, but it cooled down more in that time than old refrig did in several hours. Look forward to hitting the road with the additional space.
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F350 supercab, 6.7 diesel, 4X4, B&W hitch; 2013 COUGAR 244RLSWE; Progressive Industries EMS surge protector; Bogart TM-2025-RV Battery Monitor; Lights replaced with LEDs; 4 - 158 watt solar panels; Tristar TS45 Charge Controller; WFCO T30 auto switch; Samlex PST 2000-12 Inverter; 4 Litium 100 ah batteries;
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Old 01-29-2021, 12:37 PM   #2
chuckster57
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Very cool, no pun intended. I’ve started seeing more and more 12V compressor style RV fridges and I wondered when Dometic would start making them.
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Old 01-29-2021, 12:40 PM   #3
flybouy
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Nice write up. Do you have any pictures during the install that you can post? I know you'll be asked for more detail.
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Old 01-29-2021, 04:39 PM   #4
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Indeed would love to see pics - although bet you were all done and said "oh, we should have documented this"
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Old 01-30-2021, 04:46 PM   #5
Marty - Eureka
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Pictures 1

#1 Before we ever started, what would be the easiest way to get the new refrig into the trailer. The 4101 has rollers on the back edge of the bottom. Make the ramp; set refrig on ramp, me inside to guide and son pushing. Should have take doors off, then could have tipped and had something to hold on to while carrying in. No worries about scratching the stainless.

#2 Can see the flex vent pipe. The pvc pipe blocked being able to push the refrig in the last 3/4 inch. I determined the wire was too short to reach the junction on the refrig, but there was extra embedded in a rubber compound. Cutting it free is when I found it also powered the furance underneath. I blocked the lower vent with foam, and plugged the upper vent. Since I had some, added some insulation to wall. Still have room for air to circulate wtihin compartment.

#3 Opps, won't fit. Turns out this is the same spot on the shelf that the open door hits. Glue a small piece of foam there.

#4 Just need to level and put doors back.
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Marty - Eureka
F350 supercab, 6.7 diesel, 4X4, B&W hitch; 2013 COUGAR 244RLSWE; Progressive Industries EMS surge protector; Bogart TM-2025-RV Battery Monitor; Lights replaced with LEDs; 4 - 158 watt solar panels; Tristar TS45 Charge Controller; WFCO T30 auto switch; Samlex PST 2000-12 Inverter; 4 Litium 100 ah batteries;
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Old 01-30-2021, 04:52 PM   #6
Marty - Eureka
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Pictures 2

#5 The old door was just about even with the wall on the left. The new door extends out about two inches.

#6 Possible weak point. Only about 1/4 inch thick, so be careful how much pressure is put on door.

#7 New is about 1/2+ inch narrower than old. I tacked some rubber weather strip inside cabinet mostly to block the view of insulation and reduce dust blowing.

#8 Three 1/2 screws on the top and bottom are what hold refrig in place. With all the vibration in the trailer and the soft cabinet wood, this is a place to watch.

#9 &10 Now installed
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Marty - Eureka
F350 supercab, 6.7 diesel, 4X4, B&W hitch; 2013 COUGAR 244RLSWE; Progressive Industries EMS surge protector; Bogart TM-2025-RV Battery Monitor; Lights replaced with LEDs; 4 - 158 watt solar panels; Tristar TS45 Charge Controller; WFCO T30 auto switch; Samlex PST 2000-12 Inverter; 4 Litium 100 ah batteries;
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