Reinstall bottom half of frameless window

[KenJFerguson]

In an attempt to not run the AC I wanted to prop open the bottom half of the bedroom exit window as much as possible to increase airflow. From the outside I opened the window to 90 degrees ready to lower it to the prop (2 foot piece of PVC) but it stuck at the 90 degree position. It seemed like 2 screws along the hinge coming from the inside were preventing closure so I removed them and the whole window did come out of the frame. Now I can't get it back into place! The hinge part on the window has a lip that I assume marries up with a lip on the inside of the hinge on the frame but I can't get them the window hinge to insert so the window closes properly. Does anyone know how to get this thing back together?

Follow-up: after reading another thread describing a similar problem and taking a look at the alignment of the hinge on the other side of the bedroom I realized that there is a 1/8th inch gap between the top and bottom panes of glass where I had been trying to install without that gap. With more PITA attempts the hinge lined up and the window closed fully.

[sourdough]

I am of no help in trying to resolve your problem but....why would you try to push the window past its limit "in an attempt not to run the AC"?

[chuckster57]

I see you got it fixed. Those windows will “fall out” if rotated too high. And yes they are a PITA to put back in...BTDT.

[KenJFerguson]

A good question... we have been in a few Gulf-front state parks in TX, LA and now FL where the temps are pretty warm but there has been a nice ocean breeze that will cool the trailer very nicely for sleeping during the night if all the windows and the door are open to allow good airflow.

Propping the slideout and bedroom escape windows open well beyond the few inches allowed by the red tabs makes a big difference to that airflow.

We've always had electric hookup so it's not a battery issue but it beats the AC loudly cycling all night long when the trailer is closed up. Not mention being lulled to sleep by the surf and night sounds.

Lesson learned is to not open them to 90 degrees while inserting the PVC prop sticks.

[Gegrad]

Originally Posted by KenJFerguson

We've always had electric hookup so it's not a battery issue but it beats the AC loudly cycling all night long when the trailer is closed up. Not mention being lulled to sleep by the surf and night sounds.

Surf and night sounds aside, to keep the AC from cycling, when camping in the summer, we will just turn it on AC mode and the fan to low. That way the fan runs continuously and the AC compressor will cycle as needed to maintain temp. We don't every really hear the small noise of the compressor kicking on and off. Just a tip when you are not by the ocean and the surf sounds are missing.

But yes, the fan cycling on and off wakes me up nearly every time it cycles if we don't have the fan run continuously.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I see you got it fixed. Those windows will “fall out” if rotated too high. And yes they are a PITA to put back in...BTDT.

I'm assuming that this is considered a "feature" in an emergency exit window.

[KenJFerguson]

When we first got the unit this summer we tried to figure out how to reduce the AC noise and read about turning the fan to low which we did but the fan alone is pretty loud let alone when the compressor kicks on. I assume that there are newer units or perhaps other tricks to reduce the noise which I should investigate.

[JRTJH]

Something to consider with "open windows and the air conditioner on low" (especially when at the beach listening to the surf roll in).....

Humidity control is essential for air conditioners to maintain a "cool, non-sticky environment"... That part is considered the "comfort level"....

At the same time, "low humidity across the cooling grid inside the return air vent" is essential to prevent freeze-up of the air conditioner.... There is a "freeze detector device" inserted into that cooling grid (unit evaporator) to help prevent that issue... Additionally, running the fan on low speed, especially if a window is open (replacing humidity) is a great way to cause inadvertent "freeze-up" of the evaporator coil.

RV air conditioners aren't very "high tech" when it comes to how they work and they are subject to all the "old problems of window air conditioners from years ago"....

If you start experiencing condensation on the return air grill in the ceiling, limited or reduced air flow at the ceiling ducts, humidity condensation on the inside of the trailer windows, look at that open window and the "low speed fan setting" as contributing factors.....

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by KenJFerguson

When we first got the unit this summer we tried to figure out how to reduce the AC noise and read about turning the fan to low which we did but the fan alone is pretty loud let alone when the compressor kicks on. I assume that there are newer units or perhaps other tricks to reduce the noise which I should investigate.

In my experience, the compressor adds only about 10% to the fan noise, and I agree the fan noise is overly loud. When our fan is on, we can hardly hear each other, and to hear the TV I must ramp it up to a point that DW claims other campers can hear it.

There are noise reducing add-ons on the market. However, they seem to involve adding sound-absorbing material in the cavity that feeds the central "cold air dump register," and I'm not willing to sacrifice my dump register.

[markjamestx]

Originally Posted by KenJFerguson

In an attempt to not run the AC I wanted to prop open the bottom half of the bedroom exit window as much as possible to increase airflow. From the outside I opened the window to 90 degrees ready to lower it to the prop (2 foot piece of PVC) but it stuck at the 90 degree position. It seemed like 2 screws along the hinge coming from the inside were preventing closure so I removed them and the whole window did come out of the frame. Now I can't get it back into place! The hinge part on the window has a lip that I assume marries up with a lip on the inside of the hinge on the frame but I can't get them the window hinge to insert so the window closes properly. Does anyone know how to get this thing back together?

Follow-up: after reading another thread describing a similar problem and taking a look at the alignment of the hinge on the other side of the bedroom I realized that there is a 1/8th inch gap between the top and bottom panes of glass where I had been trying to install without that gap. With more PITA attempts the hinge lined up and the window closed fully.

Glad I found your post on the bottom glass coming mis-aligned and having to reinstall. I have the same problem and will try removing the two screws on the inside. I do need to ask a question, what does PITA mean. I keep seeing all of these acronyms that don't make sense unless you are on this site all of the time. I am not a newbie, 35,000 miles in 4 years.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by markjamestx

I do need to ask a question, what does PITA mean. I keep seeing all of these acronyms that don't make sense unless you are on this site all of the time. I am not a newbie, 35,000 miles in 4 years.

The first word is pain, and the last word is unprintable.

[KimNTerry]

Pain In The A$$

[markjamestx]

After much "PITA" as you all call it and I being mechanically inclined, I decided to call in the Mobile RV Tech. Fortunately we have one that caters to our RV club. The only proper way of installing the bottom half of the double panel exit window when it is dislodged from its hinge track is to first remove the top panel. Not too much trouble, but once done the bottom panel easily slipped into the hinge track and was secured by the two inside screws. The thickness of the upper pane prevented the bottom panel from being installed. No breakage anywhere but it work whether it was the correct procedure or not. The Mobile RV Tech was two guys for two hours at a cost of $162. You see, I have a 3000 mile trip planned next week with two grandsons and I could not afford to cancel this trip because of a broken rear window in their bunkroom.

Thanks for everyone's comments.

[sourdough]

Mark glad you got it fixed. I'm telling you, IMO $162 for 2 guys for 2 hours is just fantastic! Hope it works like a charm when you get on the road.