First generator/Charging Batteries question

[JLEL12]

I own a Hideout trailer, Model 19FLBWE. Occasionally, we take it dry camping. I have purchased a solar panel, but we live in Western WA and we don't get a lot of sun, so the solar panel does not do a great job keeping my batteries charged. I decided to purchase my first generator. After doing some research, I purchased the Smarter Tools AP2000IQ. It is very similar to the Yamaha EF2000 generator--in fact, they have the same motor. My question involves the charging of my batteries. Sadly, I really struggle when it comes to electrical stuff. I know that my trailer has a converter. The electrical panel in my trailer also has an option for generator. From doing some initial research, I've read that it's not a good idea to use the battery cables provided with the generator to charge the batteries. Some have suggested buying a high amp battery charger to plug into the generator and then use that to charge the batteries. I'd rather not go that route. Is it easier/better to plug the trailer directly into the generator and will the converter then charge the batteries? Any suggestions on how to properly keep my batteries charged while dry camping would be greatly appreciated.

[Festus2]

The best route would be to plug the generator directly into the trailer. The converter will keep the battery charged.

If your trailer lights are incandescent, I'd switch them over to LED's. These replacement lights can be ordered online and will draw far, far less juice from your battery than the incandescent variety.

If you have a single, Group24 12v battery, I'd recommend eventually replacing it with 2 12volts (say Group27) in parallel or 2 6volts wired in series.. This way you will end up with more available amp hours from which to draw upon. A single OEM group24 battery won't give you too much in the way of amp hours needed for dry camping.

[Desert185]

Buy the appropriate adapter plugs that adapt your trailer's 30 or 50 amp plug to a 15/20 amp plug and connect the trailer's power cord directly to the generator. The trailer's converter will charge the trailer's battery(s) just as as if it were plugged in at home or in a park.

[Charby]

I have 2- 6volt batteries in series, and connect a Yamaha i2000 generator to charge batteries occasionally while dry camping, using plug from trailer. The inverter is using the power from the generator to charge batteries, but then when we use the microwave with nothing else is running it will shut down the generator. We can only use microwave at 50-60% power. Is there something I'm missing here? Are the batteries too low and taking all the power available? I usually don't let batteries go below third light on panel.

[mfifield01]

I would turn off your converter circuit breaker before turning on your microwave. The Yamaha should have enough power.

[dcg9381]

I assume you've got the electric water heater off and the fridge on "gas" (not auto). The only other major component should be the converter.

[Charby]

Originally Posted by dcg9381

I assume you've got the electric water heater off and the fridge on "gas" (not auto). The only other major component should be the converter.

Correct items are on gas. I am wondering if the generator powers serves batteries, and AC appliances second? I would think it should be AC appliances first and batteries second. I don't remember having that issue when I used One 12V battery.

I guess the circuit breaker trick would work too. I will try that in about 6 months, as its in hibernation now,

[xrated]

Yamaha, like all generator brands have two ratings.....Peak and continuous power. The 2000 serves as a peak power rating and the generator can only supply that amount of power for a short time. The continuous rating is the one that you have to pay close attention to as far as running appliances, etc. The Yamaha EF2000iS is rated at 13.3 Amps continuous duty....which equates to roughly 1600 Watts. If the converter is operating and the microwave is going to be used, there simply isn't enough "Ampacity" from the Yamaha to provide both items....microwave and converter. Hope this helps you understand what is going on there.

[JRTJH]

There is no "priority system" in your trailer. The generator power is supplied to the electrical circuit breaker panel where it is "evenly divided" among all the circuits that are using power. Typically you'll see about 150 watts (1.5amp) used for the refrigerator heat circuit, 1100 watts (9.5 amps) used by the water heater element and about 900-1000 watts (about 8.5 amps) used by the AC to DC transformer in the power converter section of the power center. That DC power is used to supply all the 12 volt systems in the trailer and what's left over is used to recharge the batteries.

Usually with a couple of lights on, a roof vent fan on, the radio on and the refrigerator on (doesn't matter if it's on gas or not, it always uses 12 VDC to operate the control system and the door heat system) you'll have about 15-20 amps of "battery charge power" to recharge your batteries. If you've got two 6 volt "golf cart batteries" and they are at 2/3 charge (1/3 discharged) you'll need about 4-6 hours to fully top them off to 100% charge because of the way the charging system in the WFCO "logic circuits" control the charging rate (to prevent gassing of the electrolyte and to prevent overcharging your batteries).

So, if you do some "quick math" you'll see that even if you completely turn off the water heater element, switch the refrigerator to gas (it'll still use some DC power), you might "think you've removed the load on the generator, but in actuality, the converter is still pulling about 800 watts. That means of the 2000 watts (peak) and 1700 watts (sustained) power the generator is capable of providing, there's only about 900 watts left to power the microwave.

So, with 900 watts left, you can approach 60% power and should be very close to the 1700 watts that will "shut down" your generator's safety circuit. Crank up the microwave to 100% power and you'll be calling for more watts than your generator can provide and it'll shut down to protect itself.

The only way you can use the microwave would be to remove other loads from the "common supply at the circuit breaker panel" by shutting off the converter breaker (temporarily) while you use the microwave. Remember that the batteries won't be charging when that breaker is turned off, so when you're done with the microwave, turn the converter back on to continue charging your battery bank.

[Desert185]

My microwave is only 900 watts, so with the heater and fridge on gas the Smarter Tools 2K runs the MW at listed full power. I, too, have two GC batts.

The OP might check his MW power (see label inside the door frame) and ensure that the H2O heater is off or on gas and the fridge is on gas before tripping the converter breaker off.

[roadglide]

JRTGH Explained that right on . I have noticed sometimes when my batters get down half charged and run my 2000 champion with eco mode the gen winds up then after some time running it winds down. Is that because the converter has topped off the battery and the convertor is in the trickle mode?

[Charby]

Thanks for all the information from the above members, especially JRTJH for a very good explanation of power. I guess DW will adjust MW to 60% power while on generator. That way I don't need to do the breaker switch, and I can stay out of the kitchen.

[JRTJH]

Just one more thought "to consider": There may be a misconception about microwave power requirements. The typical RV uses a "cheap Made in China" microwave "rated at 900 watts". That "900 watts" is the cooking power, not the input power.

So, while the "magnetron" (the part that cooks the food) uses "up to 900 watts"(depending on cooking power setting) the actual input power requirement is significantly higher. As an example, here is one "900 watt RV microwave", complete with all the attaching covers and fittings, listed at $139.99. The "input power requirement is listed at 1340 watts. So, while it's a "900 watt microwave" it actually uses 1340 watts to run the entire oven system. http://www.adventurerv.net/contoure-...o4a8sn10mili40

Most microwaves in the 700 to 900 watt "cooking power" class are used on 15 amp AC breakers and quite often, depending on the "efficiency" can often require up to 1500 watts from the AC power source (or generator) while in operation.

[Desert185]

Interesting. Learned something, again.

[michael_h]

in the 2000 watt peak class inverter generators, Honda has the highest in class CC drive motor. A 2000 watt peak unit means it will only opperate @ 1600watt max continous power. I believe Yamaha uses a capacitor storage to combat the instant surge up to 2000w, where as Honda relies on brute drive motor power not to fail on surge