Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin J
Just found this...........
"You can pull the wires off and test the thermostat with a continuity tester if you're too cheap to buy the replacement kit. When the water is cold, there should be continuity between the contacts. When the water is hot, there shouldn't be."
Not sure I tested T'Stat continuity with the water hot. It might have failed closed which is why i get continuity.
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That is "normal operation" for the thermostat. If it doesn't "close the contacts" it couldn't provide power to the electrical heating element. So, that should not be tripping your circuit breaker since it has to open/close in normal operation without tripping the breaker....
I'd suspect, if the electrical element is not shorted to ground, you have a wire that's "pinched and the insulation finally wore off the wire" and is shorting out the electrical side of the water heater. We have had several (3 or 4) members who have found a crimped wire "folded under the thermostat mounting area" that was the cause of their "breaker tripping problem"....
But, the thermostat opening/closing or remaining closed would not trip the breaker in normal operation, the only "condition" that you'd have is once the water got too hot, the "high limit switch" would open and you'd have to reset the button under the rubber cover before it would work again.... That event doesn't "trip the breaker either"....