Brake check

tech740 · 05-31-2018, 06:50 PM

Taking everything apart this spring. I have never had electric brakes apart before. How thick should the magnets be?

Wxman · 05-31-2018, 07:49 PM

Do you have the Dexter axle/brakes?? This manual has a section on the brakes.
Good luck

travelin texans · 05-31-2018, 08:24 PM

If you decide to change shoes & magnets just replace the entire backing plate, it cost very little more & 4-5 bolts & everything is new & already assembled.

notanlines · 06-01-2018, 02:17 AM

Tech, what they^^^^said, especially what Danny said. And, by the way, where is your jack stand in the picture?

tech740 · 06-01-2018, 11:01 AM

Didn't go under it and the other three wheels were still on so I used the jack. I'll probably change all 4 next spring. I just wasn't sure if the magnets to too worn. Plus I have a Ram and the brake controller sucks and doesn't really use the brakes much so they are prolly good for years to come. Lol

Frank G · 06-01-2018, 11:30 AM

Reference post 1 and 5, Leaking grease seals and blames poor brakes on the brake controller.

All I can say is the brake controller in our 2016 ram performs as well as the brake controller did in the 2013 F-250 and better than the dozen or so aftermarket brake controls I've used over the decades.

To the OP, if your brake controller in your Ram really does not work well I am sorry and apologize.

**JRTJH** · 06-01-2018, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank G

Reference post 1 and 5, Leaking grease seals and blames poor brakes on the brake controller.

...
To the OP, if your brake controller in your Ram really does not work well I am sorry and apologize.

Ditto on the leaking grease seals. That was the first thing I noticed in the initial post photo. The "crud" buildup on the edges of the magnet and on the lower portion of the lag brake shoe are pretty much indicative of leaking seals. Looking at the spindle, even the top of the seal seat looks like it has been slinging grease out of the spindle.

Maybe there is a problem with the brake controller, but I wouldn't troubleshoot anything on the truck until the brakes are cleaned up (preferably replaced on all 4 wheels. I completely agree, buying 4 replacement brake assemblies and doing a good degreasing/cleaning/burnishing on the current drums is much easier and usually so close to the same price that it takes a "die-hard build it myself" guy to still buy components and reassemble the old backer plate to new magnets/shoes/springs... YMMV

tech740 · 06-01-2018, 12:59 PM

The 2010-2012 Rams all have many complaints of weak brake controllers. New seals went in last night when it was put together. Plenty of brake cleaner so it all cleaned up. We will see how it goes in a few days. Need to pull it a bit so I can retorque the lugs before our upcoming trip.

**JRTJH** · 06-01-2018, 01:37 PM

The picture you posted sure looks like the lag shoe facing is "cooked with grease". I've never been successful in cleaning brake shoe facings with any type of cleaner. Once impregnated with grease, I've only been able to get good braking action by replacing them. Drums, on the other hand, if degreased, cleaned and burnished, seem to give good braking action with new shoe facings. Hopefully you'll have better luck than my past experiences. Let us know how your brakes function after you get them "worn in and seated"....

As for the RAM controller problems, even if 50% are substandard, that doesn't guarantee that yours is in the "bad category". Even if the brake control is working exactly as designed, contaminated brake shoes will cause diminished stopping ability. Don't be so fast to blame the truck until the trailer brakes are in a "known 100% good condition".... I would be very watchful of those "cleaned and reinstalled" brake shoe facings.

Ddubya · 06-02-2018, 09:46 AM

The Ram controller like other on newer trucks is proportional.
It monitors the vehicle speed, amount of pedal pressure and deceleration to determine the proper amount of voltage applied to the trailer brakes.
When I had electric brakes on my fifth wheel I could never adjust the brakes so that I felt they were working properly. When three of four brakes literally came apart I went to electric over hydraulic brakes and they work very well. I must say though that I have never been able to feel the brakes engage by simply pressing the manual control on the brake controller. I have searched for information on how to set the newer controller but have not found anything.

tech740 · 05-29-2019, 03:51 PM

So I went through and changed all the brakes (entire backing plate assemblies), adjusted them, checked to make sure they are getting power (both manual slider, and pulled the break away pin). I can say I had two that leaked past the seals and had grease on the brakes. I still have what I call poor braking. With the gain set to 10 I can feel the brakes if manually applied. When going down the road and using the pedal I rarely ever see more than 20% power applied. If i have a panic stop I get a higher percentage. Just wish the controller would apply more power. If I go aftermarket then I get the constant trailer disconnected message. I may try a new controller I was told the 12's have a better setup. I can not set mine to heavy vs. light because that wasn't an option in 2010. Just wanted to post this as a follow up.

**JRTJH** · 05-29-2019, 05:03 PM

I'm not sure how long it's been since you changed out your brakes or whether you did any "burnishing" of the brake linings after installation????

Typically, it takes a couple hundred miles for the brake linings to "set to the drums"... If you haven't "burnished them in" then you might consider making sure the adjustment is proper: Tighten the adjuster until the wheel locks, then back off until it turns easily, but still has a "touch of resistance". Then do several "panic stops from about 25MPH. That will get you started on "wearing in the linings" but you still probably won't see "maximum braking resistance for that first couple hundred miles.

If you already knew and did this, maybe it'll help someone who wasn't aware....

tech740 · 05-29-2019, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I'm not sure how long it's been since you changed out your brakes or whether you did any "burnishing" of the brake linings after installation????

Typically, it takes a couple hundred miles for the brake linings to "set to the drums"... If you haven't "burnished them in" then you might consider making sure the adjustment is proper: Tighten the adjuster until the wheel locks, then back off until it turns easily, but still has a "touch of resistance". Then do several "panic stops from about 25MPH. That will get you started on "wearing in the linings" but you still probably won't see "maximum braking resistance for that first couple hundred miles.

If you already knew and did this, maybe it'll help someone who wasn't aware....

I have done a few 25mph stops. I didn't do anything else to wear them in though. I did adjust til there was some resistance but then left them there. I hate the idea of repeated panic stops because we have drawers that open and stuff that moves around. We have traveled about 100 miles so far and have another 100 mile trip in a few weeks. Then a long trip of 1500 miles to TN. Hoping they are worn in a little better by then.

travelin texans · 05-29-2019, 08:35 PM

The only sure cure for crappy rv drum brakes is upgrade to disc.
I had mine done by Performance Trailer Braking, they came to my location to do the swap & did a fantastic job, best upgrade I ever did.
If you plan to keep your rv for several years I'd highly recommend this upgrade, the difference in performance is night/day.

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