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Old 02-06-2020, 01:30 PM   #41
Keystoned
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As for hooking up a controller near the converter, I have a 75 amp WFCO WF-9875 with big fat wires to the battery, hehe...
Not sure what gage they are, anybody might know?
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Old 02-12-2020, 10:44 AM   #42
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So I've been afraid to check the gage of the wires because after removing some fluffy insulation around the area I realized it was rodent midden. Yes, some kind of rodents have been living there as the PO kept the unit plugged in since the battery was dead and created a nice warm area for them.
I'm in the process of cleaning out the area and disinfecting before proceeding. Looks like I'll probably remove the panel/shelf above it so I can really clean up the area.
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Old 02-12-2020, 12:24 PM   #43
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So I've been afraid to check the gage of the wires because after removing some fluffy insulation around the area I realized it was rodent midden. Yes, some kind of rodents have been living there as the PO kept the unit plugged in since the battery was dead and created a nice warm area for them.
I'm in the process of cleaning out the area and disinfecting before proceeding. Looks like I'll probably remove the panel/shelf above it so I can really clean up the area.
When you start digging into it, check the insulation on the wiring very carefully. Much of the "Chinese wire" is covered with a "soy based plastic insulation" and to those "critters in the belly" soy is "food"....
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Old 02-12-2020, 01:21 PM   #44
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Will do when I get better access.
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Old 02-23-2020, 01:02 PM   #45
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The wiring is all good and rodent waste is all cleaned up. I had to remove the side table completely to get at it.
I have 6 ga wire for the 12v converter system, btw.
Now what to do to seal the hole where all the wires come up through to prevent this from happening again?
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Old 02-23-2020, 05:35 PM   #46
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Aluminum wool or brass wool (not steel wool, it rusts) stuffed in the holes, then covered with a sheet of 1/16 - 1/8" plastic (think frisbee or butter tub lids). The plastic is easy to cut, easy to staple or screw in place and easy to seal with DICOR (left over from the roof seal job)…..
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Old 02-24-2020, 07:47 AM   #47
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Thanks, I picked up some aluminum screen door mesh as I could not find the 1/8" stuff...
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Old 03-14-2020, 08:53 AM   #48
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Planned the path from the roof to near the converter so I can tie into the two 6 gage wires to get to the batteries.
Would wire nutting the cut 6 gage wires to the 10 gage wire be sufficient or should I use some kind of junction part?
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Old 03-14-2020, 09:14 AM   #49
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Planned the path from the roof to near the converter so I can tie into the two 6 gage wires to get to the batteries.
Would wire nutting the cut 6 gage wires to the 10 gage wire be sufficient or should I use some kind of junction part?
There are better methods than wire nuts (the worst method). The method I'd use would be ring terminals with a waterproof box that has a stud for the connection.

Why the two different sizes?
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Old 03-14-2020, 09:52 AM   #50
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The trailer run 6g to the batts from the converter. The solar system uses 10g throughout. The junction will occur inside the trailer near the converter so I'm not sure it needs to be waterproof?
Certainly don't want the positive flailing around, lol
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Old 03-14-2020, 10:06 AM   #51
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The trailer run 6g to the batts from the converter. The solar system uses 10g throughout. The junction will occur inside the trailer near the converter so I'm not sure it needs to be waterproof?
Certainly don't want the positive flailing around, lol
For inside something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Sta...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
And order terminal boot to cover the positive
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Old 03-14-2020, 10:45 AM   #52
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Thanks, I'll try to source parts locally first.
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Old 03-14-2020, 10:51 AM   #53
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A lot of auto parts stores and custom car audio install shops would have it.
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Old 03-14-2020, 11:39 AM   #54
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Any chance that 6 ga terminals can be crimped on? My crimper only goes to 10 ga and there is not much room to work behind the electrical panel where the converter is. I've soldered large terminals on before with a torch, but not in close quarters...
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Old 03-14-2020, 04:11 PM   #55
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They can but not with a "standard" wire crimper from HF. What brand/model inverter are you looking at?
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Old 03-15-2020, 05:36 AM   #56
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It's a WFCO 75A model and it's tucked in real good. Here is a pic before I cleaned up the rodent mess. Would be nice if I could just shove the 10g wires in the same holes as the 6g wires are, or other convenient location. Here is another pic with the end table removed (it was a PITA).
Looks like the ground bar might work for the negative cable...
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Old 03-15-2020, 04:37 PM   #57
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Looks like a 6 and 10 will fit in the converter and hold them very tight, so I have an easy solution...now for the rest of it.
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Old 03-18-2020, 02:02 PM   #58
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Got the solar controller hooked up to the converter and removed the rest of the system from the old TT. Waiting for decent weather to finish the install on the 5W...
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Old 03-18-2020, 02:44 PM   #59
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Question about the battery temp sensor...using one is better than using none, right?
The sensor wire is about 30' too short to reach the batteries, so I'm thinking of routing it to somewhere shady and mostly dry to at least get outside temps fed into the controller. Last time I asked Renogy's tech dept a question it seemed like 'they' didn't even read the question...previous guy was sharp as a tack.
Any thoughts on this?
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Old 03-27-2020, 01:35 PM   #60
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Just to close this out, got it installed and works great so far. Just need to cover 2 wires with matching trim in one corner and maybe add the temp sensor later.
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