Newbie Toy Hauler question

TRFD · 12-11-2012, 02:51 PM

Looking at 297se or 300/310 toy hauler to carry a HD Full Dresser.

I don't want to go much past 35' length for storage and maneuver ability.

TV will be 2006 Dodge 2500 Cummins.

Is anyone doing this with theirs? Hows the ride going down the rear door? My bike weighs all of 1000# and I'm concerned about backing down the door.

Appreciate any comments.

Cheers

TRFD

VADave · 12-11-2012, 05:51 PM

Welcome - I have a Fuzion 310 and an HD Ultra Limited. Backing down isn't too bad. Try to keep the front of the toy hauler from getting too low which creates a steeper incline on the back ramp. I use the front brake only when backing down.

Dave

tanman32225 · 12-11-2012, 06:28 PM

I have a Voltage and frequently load two Goldwing Gl1800's in the back at a K apiece.. I have never had a problem and TV is a F250 powerstroke. My voltage is a 3200 Series and the ramp isn't bad at all going in or backing out.
My ramp is fully coated with anti skid and diamond plate in the storage area on the walls with rubber on floor. Very nice set up for toys.

rnkburg · 12-11-2012, 06:35 PM

I have the 300mp and its not bad with an ATV, but if its sprinkling rain I have had to go to four wheel drive going in, the stiff on the ramp isint as sticky as you think

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Big Boy w/ Big Toys · 12-11-2012, 07:00 PM

I have a 30 FS and that door looks big, long and high going in. Backing out can be a a little intimdating.

Ensure your ramp is dry, non skid or not it can be slippery. There is a point where u are going to lose contact with the ground because of ramp angle. So get comfortable going backwards. Do things to lessen ramp angle departure, Raise the nose of the trailer by putting blocks under the rear wheels of the truck. Use your front jacks to raise the nose of the trailer. Back up to a hill or something you can easily back onto, but not so steep as to not allow gravity to let bike still roll off ramp.

davidjsimons · 12-12-2012, 02:42 AM

If the angle is too much of a problem, back when I was racing, because the front of the car was soooooo low, the angle was always an issue. You can extend the length of the door by flipping an extension attached to the width of the door by a piano hinge. You can then place blocks under the edge of the rear door to hold it up just a bit. This will reduce the angle and allow you to load and unload your bike without any need to adjust the trailer. This may be helpful in bad weather during the middle of your vacation, when adjusting the trailer angle is not an option.

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crash · 12-12-2012, 03:16 AM

We have a 384pk (42 ft)and I load two fatboys and a sportster in it and as long as nothing is to close behind you ,you will not have a problem unloading or loading,just keep your feet down and keep a hold on the front brake and you will be ok.

Outbackmel · 12-12-2012, 06:37 AM

WEAR PROPER RIDING GEAR....LIKE A HELMET AND BOOTS.

After riding for over 50 years, I cannot stress the importance of NOT trying to load or unload wearing a tee shirt, flip flops, a baseball hat and shorts. I have seen plently of idiots doing it. A 1,000 pound motorcycle is not a toy and anything can go wrong, especially when you least expect it.

A broken ankle, leg or arm will make for a BAD family vacation. I have not had a toy hauler, BUT, many, many types of trailers with various platforms and ramps. Use good judgement, especially when wet.

Be safe and enjoy.

MNawman · 12-12-2012, 05:42 PM

If your ramp has diamond plate aluminum, I would get a spray coating such as Linex. Alum diamond plate is very slick when wet! Put blocks under the frame of the bike when you tie it down. It reduces compression stress on your forks and makes the bike solid as a rock!! I run front straps going forward, and rear straps going back, and I use a strap on each side at the crash bars as a backup in case anything breaks.

LittleJoe · 12-13-2012, 07:00 PM

When backing out, leave the engine off and in gear. Pull in clutch lever and use front brake. When you reach point where front wheel slides, just let clutch lever out and rear wheel will help out and prevent front sliding.
When full bike is on ramp and you are approaching point where you cannot touch the ground, just pull in clutch and freewheel coast till on terra firma.

When going in MAKE SURE your ramp angle is such that you won't get hung up and stall bike at brakeover angle into trailer. Have one person who is big enough to help out if you get in a bind, the first couple of times, till you feel more confident.

I used to load into back of pickup on backarched ramps, and had a preparation checklist, for everything that needed to be done. Assistance was not an option, soooo consider everything when 1000lbs is in play. HTH

GaryBro · 12-15-2012, 07:21 PM

I second what LittleJoe said. I've been using the engine off, in 1st gear with the clutch method for many years and it really works well. The only issue I have had is with many bikes, the clutch drags when cold. You will notice this when you pull in the clutch, put it in 1st gear (rock the bike a little to ensure it is in gear) and then try to back the bike up. If it doesn't want to move, the clutch is dragging. With a little rocking, you can get it to move and then you are on your way to using the engine to slow your speed on the way down the ramp.

MConnelly · 12-24-2012, 05:07 AM

Kudos to those that can ride up and down the loading ramps with big bikes.

Due to some physical limitations I cannot. So, I had to figure out another way to safely get the bikes in and out.

I installed a winch, with a cabled remote switch, that pulls the bikes in while I simply walk along side providing balance. And lowers the bikes out as I do the same walk.

No stress, no struggle. A bit of angle makes no difference. Also a wet ramp is of no concern. Cost me less than $200.00 for all the hardware inc. the winch.

I have even pulled the bikes in backwards and simply ridden the bikes out front wheel first.

hope this helps

SAD · 12-24-2012, 06:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MConnelly

Kudos to those that can ride up and down the loading ramps with big bikes.

Due to some physical limitations I cannot. So, I had to figure out another way to safely get the bikes in and out.

I installed a winch, with a cabled remote switch, that pulls the bikes in while I simply walk along side providing balance. And lowers the bikes out as I do the same walk.

No stress, no struggle. A bit of angle makes no difference. Also a wet ramp is of no concern. Cost me less than $200.00 for all the hardware inc. the winch.

I have even pulled the bikes in backwards and simply ridden the bikes out front wheel first.

hope this helps

Sounds like an inventive solution from someone unwilling to let minor physical limitations get in the way of their fun.

T11ravis · 12-24-2012, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MConnelly

Kudos to those that can ride up and down the loading ramps with big bikes.

Due to some physical limitations I cannot. So, I had to figure out another way to safely get the bikes in and out.

I installed a winch, with a cabled remote switch, that pulls the bikes in while I simply walk along side providing balance. And lowers the bikes out as I do the same walk.

No stress, no struggle. A bit of angle makes no difference. Also a wet ramp is of no concern. Cost me less than $200.00 for all the hardware inc. the winch.

I have even pulled the bikes in backwards and simply ridden the bikes out front wheel first.

hope this helps

Well done.
Where did you anchor the winch?

MConnelly · 12-28-2012, 04:06 PM

I located the floor joist closest to the sliding door in my Fuzion 403
I used a 12" X 12" X 1/4" steel plate under the winch mount plate to spread the load out a bit. I anchored the plate and winch mount to the floor joist with heavy expansion bolts to/thru the floor joist.

I can direct the position of the line pull by heavy chains and snatch blocks across the floor ti-down loops.

I load two bikes in the garage. One is a straight pull the other is moved over with the chains and snatch blocks to pull the second bike right into it's chock.

chain_dogg · 12-29-2012, 09:04 AM

I read about these on another forum, People seem to love them for loading a bike. Takes the steepness down to a safe way to load. scroll down the page.

http://www.raceramps.com/trailer-ram...xtensions.aspx

T11ravis · 12-29-2012, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chain_dogg

I read about these on another forum, People seem to love them for loading a bike. Takes the steepness down to a safe way to load. scroll down the page.

http://www.raceramps.com/trailer-ram...xtensions.aspx

I have a friend that has a pair of those, he loves them.
I had no idea they were that expensive!

chain_dogg · 12-29-2012, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T11ravis

I have a friend that has a pair of those, he loves them.
I had no idea they were that expensive!

can't be to hard to build one out ply wood and 2X6 or 2X8. And get some non skid tape from graingers to finish it off

T11ravis · 12-29-2012, 08:42 PM

I'm thinking of just modifying these: http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9867909/01541/

Coyote · 01-24-2013, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crash

We have a 384pk (42 ft)and I load two fatboys and a sportster in it and as long as nothing is to close behind you ,you will not have a problem unloading or loading,just keep your feet down and keep a hold on the front brake and you will be ok.

My husband and I are looking at the 384PK. Would like to ask you a question about it. Is it possible to load a motorcycle using the Patio Side door? This would be a full size Harley Road Glide. We don't have any where near us to go look at this model and it will be next month before we can get to a RV Show that may have them. The reason I ask this is that we have two Harleys. His Road Glide and my Tri-Glide. The 14' garage is tight to say the least. So he was thinking if it was possible to load his bike from the side and let it sit from side to side in the garage we could them pull the trike in and things would fit much better. Is this possible? Thanks for your help.

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