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Old 11-10-2011, 04:37 PM   #1
Clark
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2012 Slide Overide

Hello folks I am Hoping to get some input from fellow passport owners on the slide overide for the 2510Rb model The motor on the bal accuslide is mounted above the slide in the middle on the side wall, I see no way to use the 12 inch extension with a drill to pull the slide in incase of failure of the motor there is not much room between the ceiling and the slide to reach in there and if you could the slide will be pushing you away from the motor, my dealer had no answer for nor keystone i have called them twice, any advice much appreciated
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:58 AM   #2
JerJan10
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Manual slide operation

Our Copper Canyon unit has Lippert slides. Because the unit has opposing slides, there is no “thru-the-frame” access to manually operate the slides. I saw a post on some RV site that described how to cut a hole in the underbelly cover in order to access the slide motors. I haven't been able to find the RV post/web site again.

Just after we brought the unit home I unfastened the underbelly cover on both sides under the slides. I could see the slide mechanisms and the hex adapter that is used for manual operation on the motor end of the screw mechanism. It is a 5/8” hex adapter. I used a large cardboard box to support the center of the underbelly cover while I had the screws removed. The screws have a 3/8 hex head and are the so called self-threading type.

I used a cordless drill with a 5/8 socket to move the slides in a little bit and then back out, it seemed to work OK. The RV manual has some generic information on how to manually operate the slides but nothing specific to our 273FWRET. The Lippert manual (pg 6) specifies that the battery be disconnected when manually operating the slides. The Lippert manual (pg 6) also warns that when you are operating the slides manually, be careful not to over-extend or over retract the slides. If you use the manual method to extend/retract the slides, have a helper watch the slides to tell you when they are fully extended/retracted so that you don’t overdo it.

I measured and marked where to cut the holes if I ever need to. Since I hope to never have to operate the slides manually I didn’t cut any holes in the underneath-cover.

For my slides, turning the hex adapter Clockwise to Retract, Counterclockwise to extend.

Sorry this reply is so long! JT
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:06 AM   #3
JerJan10
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Clark, I also intended to say in the beginning of my reply that although my unit is different from yours, the slide is probably the same Lippert slide that Keystone uses.
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:22 PM   #4
Clark
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jerjan thanks for the reply i appreciate , But no my unit has the BAL accuslide system with the cables, I have researched this system and i see no wat to overide it without problems, Due to keystone rv,s design thanks
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:31 PM   #5
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Oops!

NOW I see the slide brand in your post, sorry. Good luck with it, hope you find a solution..
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:33 PM   #6
hwhtech
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Your unit should have come with 2 flexible hoses(or 1 for each s/o you have) to attach to the shaft on the side of the motor. To get to the motor, 1st Remove the cover on the top center of the s/o fascia covering the motor (Usually has 2 or 4 screws covered with plugs) than put the female end of the hose onto the shaft and the other end into a drill to bring the slide out IN or OUT. Becareful depending on your model trailer the top of the slide out may be to close the the ceiling of the trailer and you can get "pinched" between the two. Hope this helps if you need more help let me know. Good luck
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Old 12-16-2011, 05:43 PM   #7
Clark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hwhtech View Post
Your unit should have come with 2 flexible hoses(or 1 for each s/o you have) to attach to the shaft on the side of the motor. To get to the motor, 1st Remove the cover on the top center of the s/o fascia covering the motor (Usually has 2 or 4 screws covered with plugs) than put the female end of the hose onto the shaft and the other end into a drill to bring the slide out IN or OUT. Becareful depending on your model trailer the top of the slide out may be to close the the ceiling of the trailer and you can get "pinched" between the two. Hope this helps if you need more help let me know. Good luck
I think i might need more help..... LOL That is a tight area to try and hold a drill and plus being pushed away from the motor, I need a six foot long flex shaft to use from the side of the slideout over the top of the roof, maybe keystone will help. I doubt it, BAL states not to close off the components where they are not servicable. Hmm guess Keystone did not listen, Earlier passports with the shallow slide had the bal accuslide under the couch.
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:17 PM   #8
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I just checked mine and see no way to remove that center facia piece. I swear the motor is up there, since I hear it and I think I see it. And I think it’s mounted sideways. Nobody seems to know how to override the slide, and I hope it never has to be done.
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:02 PM   #9
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Here's a PDF on the maintenance of the BAL cable driven slideout. It shows how to manually overide the slide, you shoud have been given a flexible device to use as described in the PDF. Here's the link http://eaa1358.com/Passport/Slideout...ice-manual.pdf and here's the videos of the BAL slideout http://eaa1358.com/Passport/Slideout/Videos/ click on the videos to see how to care and maintain this type of slideout. If you have the Lippert slideout then here's the manual for it and this is the most common type manual http://eaa1358.com/Passport/Slideout...ideout-Web.pdf Hope this helps!
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:18 PM   #10
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Flyguy, I’ve read the manuals and watched the videos (including Keystone’s). None of them show me how to actually get at the motor. As with Clark, mine looks to be mounted to the wall of the trailer with no access panel in the slide. With the slide in, the motor is 3 feet from the slide facia. In the last video: http://eaa1358.com/Passport/Slideout...ide_motion.avi
Imagine that the green box has a lip that extends near to the ceiling. That makes it near impossible to connect the flex tool to the motor, and with the slide in, it’s a *very* long reach.
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:21 AM   #11
Clark
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flyguy i have read all the manuals also even on your all your links which by the way are very helpful, But this design of putting the slide system above the slide makes it almost impossible to get to the side of the motor
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:18 AM   #12
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On the 2008 Passport 280BH that we had at one time the slide motor was on the bottom of the slide. There was a panel covering the motor that was screwed to the floor that could be easily removed and all the cable adjusters were visible with this panel removed. I never had to use the manual override but like you wanted to be prepared for that situation. I think if I had your situation I would make a removable petition if one didn't exist.
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:40 AM   #13
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Manual slide override

Must say I'm pretty embarrassed right now.... While I knew how to do the manual on our old TT... I don't have a clue on the SRX, not to smart. Will have to investigate... something I should have done prior to last years outings. Any SRX owners welcome to chime-in...
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Old 12-20-2011, 06:31 PM   #14
onsite
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slide motor location

I have the 2510rb as well, The motor is mounted on the upper inside center wall.Very tight place to access.
From what I was told you have to remove the center name (passport ) plate in the middle of the slide , I think the 4 wooden knobs on the front will pop out,then unscrew plate off, not sure, never tried, Hope I never have a problem. Also someone at the dealer said the upper trim on the inside slide might have to be removed. I'll find out more details when I get back to Dealer, will talk to the techs that do the work when I get there. I am taking mine back for some warranty work next week.
( Bottom drawer losing bearings, hard to open, and a small 1/16' crack on outside of kitchen window near top left trim )Also front right bed room window screen was missing. Missed a few items on walk thru, but did see and noted the 1/16"crack on delivery. Hard to spot everything the first day.
As soon as I get the info on the override , I'll post.
Thanks Have a great Holiday.
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:08 AM   #15
Clark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onsite View Post
I have the 2510rb as well, The motor is mounted on the upper inside center wall.Very tight place to access.
From what I was told you have to remove the center name (passport ) plate in the middle of the slide , I think the 4 wooden knobs on the front will pop out,then unscrew plate off, not sure, never tried, Hope I never have a problem. Also someone at the dealer said the upper trim on the inside slide might have to be removed. I'll find out more details when I get back to Dealer, will talk to the techs that do the work when I get there. I am taking mine back for some warranty work next week.
( Bottom drawer losing bearings, hard to open, and a small 1/16' crack on outside of kitchen window near top left trim )Also front right bed room window screen was missing. Missed a few items on walk thru, but did see and noted the 1/16"crack on delivery. Hard to spot everything the first day.
As soon as I get the info on the override , I'll post.
Thanks Have a great Holiday.
Hope you get your items fixed, You are correct the center plate does unscrew but it is still a very tight area to access, As far as taking the facia off that looks to be a major job, In order to work on the cable and chains it looks like it just might have to come off, Post what you find out from your dealer thanks.
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:36 AM   #16
onsite
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Finally got my 2510RB back

Well, finally got my 2510rb back from dealer, fixed issues with drawer slide and window area . Only thing is, I never got a good answer on the slide manual over ride . Everyone I talked to said that the upper valance would have to be removed. I see this to be a lot of work as well as placing it back on. From what I'm told it is held on by small nails and once removed you would have to renail it when going back on, which means touchup crayons or something to cover nail heads and not to metion any marks if using a hammer. Guess you would have to use a molding nail gun to get a better look. I tried to get step by step instructions with pictures just in case anything did happen , But no luck. Even called Keystone and was told that there was enough room to get to motor.
I hope I never have this issue.
If anyone has a better way, please post.
Thanks
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Old 08-09-2012, 11:06 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onsite View Post
... Everyone I talked to said that the upper valance would have to be removed. I see this to be a lot of work as well as placing it back on. From what I'm told it is held on by small nails and once removed you would have to renail it when going back on, which means touchup crayons or something to cover nail heads and not to metion any marks if using a hammer. Guess you would have to use a molding nail gun to get a better look. I tried to get step by step instructions with pictures just in case anything did happen , But no luck. Even called Keystone and was told that there was enough room to get to motor.
I hope I never have this issue.
If anyone has a better way, please post.
Thanks
So has anyone found a better way? I have a 2010 Passport 3050BH and I'm having the same problem. I really hate to take that valance off due to the fact of not really knowing where it is nailed. The results might end up being me breaking it trying to get it off.
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Old 08-09-2012, 11:24 AM   #18
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Over ride slideout

Maybe you can apply what I did. I have a 361lev raptor. The closet slide out motor is exposed when the slide is in. But fully extended its cover up, By the closet peditstool?? So I drilled a 1/2 hole threw the peditstool to acess the motor overide. I capped the hole with a black pastic cap so it's not noticable.
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