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Old 09-24-2017, 06:54 PM   #1
littleking
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Springdale 295RBSSR spare tire rim too thin to seat lugs

I have a Springdale 295RBSSR and I had a blowout. I was unable to fully seat the lugs on my factory spare rim. I even stood on the tire iron.

By the time I was able to get off the highway, the lug nuts had backed out half way damaging the lugs. I was able to limp to an ace hardware and get some washers.

Now my spare is destroyed. So are my lugs.

Why would keystone give you a spare tire that does not fit safely?
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Old 09-25-2017, 01:15 AM   #2
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While I don't have an actual answer to your question, I will add this. I don't believe that your trailer left the Keystone plant with that spare tire. I believe that either the previous owner, if there was one, or the original dealer took the original spare and substituted the spare you now have with one from Tractor Supply or Northern Tools. For anyone reasonably handy the replacement of the lug bolts is not a problem. However, how you locate a wheel that fits your hub is another question. Probably one answered by your dealer.
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Old 09-25-2017, 04:02 AM   #3
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Typically, at least from my experience with trailer wheels, steel wheels have "open lug nuts" with plastic caps and aluminum (mag) wheels have closed lug nuts that don't need caps. The closed lug nuts are like the ones in the pictures provided by littleking. I'd suspect (from looking back through the previous posts about this trailer) that either the OEM wheels were exchanged at some point or the trailer was delivered with aluminum wheels/closed lug nuts at the 4 axle ends and with a steel wheel (that requires open lug nuts) as a spare. Trying to use closed lug nuts that fit a wheel that's 3/4" thick (so they tighten against the wheel) on a steel wheel that's 3/16" thick will cause the lug nut to "bottom out" against the lug before it tightens against the thinner wheel. So, you'll never get the lug nuts to properly tighten against that wheel. Essentially, it's two different systems for installing the wheel on the axle and they aren't interchangeable.

This is another example of why I suggest "new owners" actually go through the process of changing their spare tire to an "on the ground" position on their trailer "IN THE DRIVEWAY" before they have a need to do it "on the side of a busy highway".....

While one could say this is "no fault of the owner", reading the problems with this specific trailer and the lack of service from the dealer, going all the way back to 2014, I'd have to say that this problem doesn't surprise me, given the history of the unit.
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Old 09-25-2017, 04:44 AM   #4
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Damaged wheel and studs are on your shoulders. How did you ever expect the wheel to not wobble knowing it wasn't tight. You knew it wasn't right and proceed to pull the trailer anyway. A call for road service to fix the flat would have been a better choice.
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Old 09-25-2017, 04:48 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by hornet28 View Post
Damaged wheel and studs are on your shoulders. How did you ever expect the wheel to not wobble knowing it was tight. You knew it wasn't right and proceed to pull the trailer anyway. A call for road service to fix the flat would have been a better choice.
we we're in a precarious position and needed to get the trailer off of the dangerous (due to incredible amount of traffic) intersection (I-75 and I-70 in Dayton, OH).
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Old 09-25-2017, 04:49 AM   #6
littleking
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Typically, at least from my experience with trailer wheels, steel wheels have "open lug nuts" with plastic caps and aluminum (mag) wheels have closed lug nuts that don't need caps. The closed lug nuts are like the ones in the pictures provided by littleking. I'd suspect (from looking back through the previous posts about this trailer) that either the OEM wheels were exchanged at some point or the trailer was delivered with aluminum wheels/closed lug nuts at the 4 axle ends and with a steel wheel (that requires open lug nuts) as a spare. Trying to use closed lug nuts that fit a wheel that's 3/4" thick (so they tighten against the wheel) on a steel wheel that's 3/16" thick will cause the lug nut to "bottom out" against the lug before it tightens against the thinner wheel. So, you'll never get the lug nuts to properly tighten against that wheel. Essentially, it's two different systems for installing the wheel on the axle and they aren't interchangeable.

This is another example of why I suggest "new owners" actually go through the process of changing their spare tire to an "on the ground" position on their trailer "IN THE DRIVEWAY" before they have a need to do it "on the side of a busy highway".....

While one could say this is "no fault of the owner", reading the problems with this specific trailer and the lack of service from the dealer, going all the way back to 2014, I'd have to say that this problem doesn't surprise me, given the history of the unit.
very good advice (first time camper owner here). There was only one pass-through lug nut holding the spare on

I'm going to call the dealer this morning and see what they say (good luck with that)
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Old 09-25-2017, 04:53 AM   #7
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very good advice (first time camper owner here). There was only one pass-through lug nut holding the spare on

I'm going to call the dealer this morning and see what they say (good luck with that)
Good luck, but with your past experience with that dealer, I wouldn't look for much help.....

Two questions for you: Does your trailer have the OEM wheels? Are they 4 aluminum wheels (on the ground) with a steel spare?
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:07 AM   #8
littleking
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Good luck, but with your past experience with that dealer, I wouldn't look for much help.....

Two questions for you: Does your trailer have the OEM wheels? Are they 4 aluminum wheels (on the ground) with a steel spare?
yes, thats correct.

4 aluminum, and a steel spare
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Old 09-25-2017, 08:21 AM   #9
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Should have had an aluminum spare or or extra open lug nuts.


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Old 09-25-2017, 08:53 AM   #10
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Should have had an aluminum spare or or extra open lug nuts.


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2016 F350 CC DRW
As a note... My spare is also a steel wheel.... as was the spare on my '12 Passport.. Never seen an OEM aluminum spare even on a pickup...

I bought a full set of standard open lug nuts in '12 and kept them with me for this trailer... seems logical to me...
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Old 09-25-2017, 02:24 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javi View Post
As a note... My spare is also a steel wheel.... as was the spare on my '12 Passport.. Never seen an OEM aluminum spare even on a pickup...

I bought a full set of standard open lug nuts in '12 and kept them with me for this trailer... seems logical to me...
Well, this certainly is an eye opener, my trailer also has a steel spare and aluminum wheels and nary a spare, open, lug nut anywhere

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
This is another example of why I suggest "new owners" actually go through the process of changing their spare tire to an "on the ground" position on their trailer "IN THE DRIVEWAY" before they have a need to do it "on the side of a busy highway".....
Sage advice right there... wondering what Keystone expects folks to do for lug nuts in this situation?

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Old 09-25-2017, 02:30 PM   #12
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Well, this certainly is an eye opener, my trailer also has a steel spare and aluminum wheels and nary a spare, open, lug nut anywhere



Sage advice right there... wondering what Keystone expects folks to do for lug nuts in this situation?

-Brian
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Old 09-25-2017, 03:27 PM   #13
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When a RV trailer is equipped with a spare wheel & tire assembly that is different (steel vise allow wheel or bias ply vise radial tire) from the assemblies installed as original equipment, it’s intent is to be used for emergencies ONLY. It’s a buyer beware situation that should be addressed on the buyer’s PDI forms.

Note: It's addressed in the Keystone generic owner's manual.

Browsing this link may provide a solution.

https://www.google.com/search?q=conc...=1506382512626
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Old 09-25-2017, 03:50 PM   #14
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When a RV trailer is equipped with a spare wheel & tire assembly that is different (steel vise allow wheel or bias ply vise radial tire) from the assemblies installed as original equipment, it’s intent is to be used for emergencies ONLY. It’s a buyer beware situation that should be addressed on the buyer’s PDI forms.

Note: It's addressed in the Keystone generic owner's manual.
Is it addressed in the owners manual that you will need to bring your own lug nuts to the spare tire party?

It was not covered on any of my forms and who would have thought to ask if the wheel lug nuts would work, if use of the spare was required?

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Old 09-26-2017, 04:16 AM   #15
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My 5er has aluminum wheels and.a steel spare. My lug nuts are deep enough that they seat on either wheel. I'm surprised the OE capped lug nuts are that short. Personally, I've never seen this situation before. It makes me wonder if the lugs, studs, or wheels have been changed at some point.
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Old 09-26-2017, 06:00 AM   #16
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Just a thought but you could have taken a lug nut from your TV and tried it on the camper. If it fit, then you could take one from each wheel and had 4 to use on the spare to get you to safety. Going forward, I'd suggest buying enough for 2 wheels even though you only have one spare. I have stopped to help other folks with flats when road debris catches both tires on one side. I loaned them my spare and followed them to a place where they could remove and return it to me. I spent many years boating on the Chesapeake Bay before getting into "glamping". On the water it was Coast Guard "rule" to lend assistance when possible and I cxarry that motto ashore.
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Old 09-26-2017, 07:42 AM   #17
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All i can say is wow, this is RIDICULOUS

I have owned so many trailers i cant count them all and never have i had a spare that the lug nuts wont fit

I dont care if the wheels are aluminum, steel or plastic this is the stupidest thing i have ever heard of and there is no excuse for any trailer manufacturer to set up the wheels like this

Acting like the owner should have known to carry different lug nuts is just wrong, i am the most proactive, ready for any problem on the road person you will meet, there is more junk in my truck for potential problems than anything else in there and i had no idea i needed to purchase and carry a separate set of lug nuts for my trailer spare

This should be a sticky so everyone is forewarned
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Old 09-26-2017, 08:01 AM   #18
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I am going to try the spare on my trailer soon, when it's not raining. I have had flats and one blow out on the f350. It has aftermarket mag wheels with capped chrome lug nuts they tighten up on the steel spare as normal. Never gave the TT a second thought until now.
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Old 09-26-2017, 08:52 AM   #19
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Personally it wouldn't hurt my feelings... not even a little bit if they'd just put steel wheels all the way around.. I hate aluminum wheels.. flat can't stand them..
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Old 09-26-2017, 09:08 AM   #20
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My 2016 Keystone Outback 325BH (TT) had aluminum wheels with a steel spare. Other than the two open lug nuts holding the spare to the cheesy mount, there were no extra lug nuts.

Although the person mounting the spare should have recognized something was amiss when tightening the nuts, that does not help when you have a flat without nuts.

I ****-canned my ST tires the day I brought my new camper home, which included upgrading to 16" wheels (including the spare)... so I never tried the fitment of my old steel spare and the lug nuts on the aluminum wheels.

I upgraded the spare to aluminum as well and fabricated a superior mount for it.

Long way to say "that sucks"...


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