Weight Distribution Question

[JBWardFamily]

Hi all. I'm hoping to pick up a "new to us" 2017 Cougar X-Lite 33MLS next week. An old timer (stepdad) told me that with my 2019 F250, I probably didn't need a weight distribution hitch. Is that even close to true? I'm still planning to get one, but the question I have is that when you get to your site, do you have to remove the bars to make the tight turns? Also, what is the most economical way to get the 8 inches of drop I need for the hitch to be level? The suspension is stock on the F250, but I do have 35/12.50/18s on them which took me two inches higher. Thanks.

[Keystoned]

When you hook it up the first time, measure how much the rear drops and if your headlights point higher than normal. This usually means less weight on the front tires and squirrelly handling. If so, you need WD. I'm sure there are more exact descriptions to follow, so free bump.

[JRTJH]

The XLite 33MLS is a 36' 10,000 pound trailer. Having that much length behind any truck would require a weight distribution WITH SWAY CONTROL hitch. When you consider the tongue weight will be around 11-12% of total trailer weight, you're going to be in the 1000+ pound tongue weight. That would require a weight distribution hitch. When you consider the 11' tall trailer sidewall that's 30+ feet long, you're looking at a "flatwall size" that's larger than most 26' sailboat sails... Trying to handle that much "sidewind catcher" without sway control will probably make your first trip with sidewinds or multiple 18 wheelers passing you enough to "convert you to a "sway control user"...

With the larger tires, you'll need to verify that they can support the weight placed on the rear axle by towing and you'll probably also need to lower the hitch head on the hitch block to keep the nose of the trailer "level or slightly lower than the axles" for best towing.

Also, remember that the Ford ratings for your receiver are based on the 2.5" size. If you insert a "conventional hitch" into the receiver using the 2" adapter sleeve, you significantly reduce the receiver weight ratings.

You're about to buy one of the "largest size, ultralight trailers" that's being produced. You will want the maximum amount of towing equipment to "control that big beast" to provide the most safety for your family and the other people who share the road with you.

It's entirely possible that you can "tow in ideal conditions" for several trips before you encounter the true personality of your trailer in adverse conditions. Preparing for that eventuality before it happens is the key to safe towing.

[SummitPond]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

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Also, remember that the Ford ratings for your receiver are based on the 2.5" size. If you insert a "conventional hitch" into the receiver using the 2" adapter sleeve, you significantly reduce the receiver weight ratings.

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John

Why does the sleeve reduce the receiver weight ratings?

I'm embarrassed to say I don't know the ID of the hitch receiver. And the owner's manual is not much help in this area. I'd go out and check but I'm temporarily laid up with foot issues, so hobbling out there is not a task I would willingly take! I always assumed I had a 2.5 inch hitch receiver, but ...

I can see if it's a different class that would impact loading, but I don't understand how adding a sleeve impacts the rating of the original hitch.

Please educate me on this. Thanks.

Ken

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by SummitPond

John

Why does the sleeve reduce the receiver weight ratings?

I'm embarrassed to say I don't know the ID of the hitch receiver. And the owner's manual is not much help in this area. I'd go out and check but I'm temporarily laid up with foot issues, so hobbling out there is not a task I would willingly take! I always assumed I had a 2.5 inch hitch receiver, but ...

I can see if it's a different class that would impact loading, but I don't understand how adding a sleeve impacts the rating of the original hitch.

Please educate me on this. Thanks.

Ken

I don't think the actual sleeve reduces it but rather the limiting factor would be the smaller receiver that fits into the sleeve.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by SummitPond

John

Why does the sleeve reduce the receiver weight ratings?

Ken

.

Essentially, as with any assembly of components, the "entire assembly" assumes the limitations of the weakest link. What that means is that if your truck has a 2.5" receiver rated at 1800/18,000 (TW/MAX TLR) and you install a 2.5" shank rated at 1800/18,000 then the receiver is capable of towing that much weight.

On the other hand, if you insert a 2.5:2" sleeve and a 2" shank rated at 1400/14,000, then your receiver (even though it's rating is higher) can only tow the 1400/14,000 pound capacity (because it's limited by the shank rating).

That goes for any component used in the assembly. For instance, if the receiver is rated 1800/18,000, a 2" shank rated at 1400/14,000 and a WD hitch rated at 1250/12,500, then the "assembly" is limited to the lowest rated component, in this case the WD hitch.

Now, take that same assembly and install a trailer ball that's rated at 6,000 pounds max and that ENTIRE assembly is limited to towing a 6,000 pound trailer....

Sort of like installing 12,000 pound safety chains on the trailer tongue with 3/8" grade 5 bolts and "S" hooks rated at 1,000 pounds. Even though you've got a "hefty chain" it'll break (the entire assembly, not the chain) as soon as you reach the "lightweight "S" hook capacity.

So, the receiver rating is limited (from its maximum capacity) when you install a 2" sleeve and install a "lighter rated shank"....

[Northofu1]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

.

Essentially, as with any assembly of components, the "entire assembly" assumes the limitations of the weakest link. What that means is that if your truck has a 2.5" receiver rated at 1800/18,000 (TW/MAX TLR) and you install a 2.5" shank rated at 1800/18,000 then the receiver is capable of towing that much weight.

On the other hand, if you insert a 2.5:2" sleeve and a 2" shank rated at 1400/14,000, then your receiver (even though it's rating is higher) can only tow the 1400/14,000 pound capacity (because it's limited by the shank rating).

That goes for any component used in the assembly. For instance, if the receiver is rated 1800/18,000, a 2" shank rated at 1400/14,000 and a WD hitch rated at 1250/12,500, then the "assembly" is limited to the lowest rated component, in this case the WD hitch.

Now, take that same assembly and install a trailer ball that's rated at 6,000 pounds max and that ENTIRE assembly is limited to towing a 6,000 pound trailer....

Sort of like installing 12,000 pound safety chains on the trailer tongue with 3/8" grade 5 bolts and "S" hooks rated at 1,000 pounds. Even though you've got a "hefty chain" it'll break (the entire assembly, not the chain) as soon as you reach the "lightweight "S" hook capacity.

So, the receiver rating is limited (from its maximum capacity) when you install a 2" sleeve and install a "lighter rated shank"....

But if the 2" shank rated for 1500lbs TW / 15000lbs Max tow weight, then whether it is in a sleeve or not doesn't diminish it's capability. The 2.5" receiver is rated higher than the 2" but does not affect the tongue and tow capacity of the WDH. Unless I am wrong

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Northofu1

But if the 2" shank rated for 1500lbs TW / 15000lbs Max tow weight, then whether it is in a sleeve or not doesn't diminish it's capability. The 2.5" receiver is rated higher than the 2" but does not affect the tongue and tow capacity of the WDH. Unless I am wrong

If you're looking for a "reason to argue about a post" then yeah, check your post, you forgot the "," in 15000lbs (and there's no space between the 15000 and the lbs)…

I think the ENTIRE post will provide the answer to "your "but" and your "argument" is specifically addressed further in the body of my post. I wouldn't suggest you're "wrong", just that you apparently didn't read my entire post.... If that's not the reason, I don't think I could provide the answers you're seeking... After all, "oh never mind"...

[SummitPond]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

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So, the receiver rating is limited (from its maximum capacity) when you install a 2" sleeve and install a "lighter rated shank"....

That makes PERFECT sense! I was over thinking the problem - focused on the receiver and not the hitch that would go into the receiver.

Thanks.

[flybouy]

In my opinion yes you need a WDH with sway control. Your trailer is similar to mine and I'm at about 1,000 lb hitch weight. With 36'+ behind you that's a lot of "sail area" to push you around, even in a 3/4 ton.

You said you "suspension" is stock but then stipulate a tire that I assume is not. Your tires are a very integral part of your suspension. Oversized tires will have a negative impact on handling and stopping (tnerfore CONTROL). What's the load rating on those tires? Having "fat" agressive tires on a truck are not ideal for towing and will negatively impact sway.
If you have a 2" rise from the tires thats a 4" larger diameter tire. It may look nice but it will suck for towing. As for an "economical" 8" drop for a weight distributing hitch, good luck. But don't cheap out on the only thing between you and your new camper. Check out etrailer.com they have lots of hitches.

[rodgebone]

Originally Posted by flybouy

In my opinion yes you need a WDH with sway control.

I totally agree

[Frank G]

Back to the 2 x 2.5 inch sleeve. When a 2" shank is used in a 2" receiver and the same with a 2.5" shank is used in a 2.5" receiver, the pin holding it in place is placed in a sheer condition due to the limited space between the opposing surfaces. The pin as supplied from a reputable supplier has the necessary metallurgical properties to perform it's job holding the receiver in place, safely.

Now, when the sleeve is used there is essentially a 1/4" gap on each side due to the sleeve being free floating. The pin is no longer in sheer creating unpredictable failure points. The pin can and will bend making removal without hammer and punches, or torches almost impossible.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by Frank G

Back to the 2 x 2.5 inch sleeve. When a 2" shank is used in a 2" receiver and the same with a 2.5" shank is used in a 2.5" receiver, the pin holding it in place is placed in a sheer condition due to the limited space between the opposing surfaces. The pin as supplied from a reputable supplier has the necessary metallurgical properties to perform it's job holding the receiver in place, safely.

Now, when the sleeve is used there is essentially a 1/4" gap on each side due to the sleeve being free floating. The pin is no longer in sheer creating unpredictable failure points. The pin can and will bend making removal without hammer and punches, or torches almost impossible.

On my '13 GMC dually the 2.5" to 2" adapter had very little gap, no where near a 1/4", on either side plus the 2" fit the hitch perfectly with nearly no play, no issue with shearing or bent pins.
From my experience if it has that much slop it may be either missized or just the wrong adapter for that particular application.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

On my '13 GMC dually the 2.5" to 2" adapter had very little gap, no where near a 1/4", on either side plus the 2" fit the hitch perfectly with nearly no play, no issue with shearing or bent pins.
From my experience if it has that much slop it may be either missized or just the wrong adapter for that particular application.

I have to agree. I used the sleeve in my prior 3/4 ton going into the 7th season and never had any issue with slop or bent pins. The fit was snug; so snug the sleeve would not come out when I traded it in.

[ADQ K9]

OP, I have Curt 17501 think it is the same as yours. When I got my 2.5 inch shank I had to file/grind off a little on the corners to get to fit in the reciever. I got the Curt because it was in stock locally no one in town had an Equalizer. I have had no problems in the time I have had it. Keep the head greased and I use Aero Kroil (WD 40 on steroids) on the L brackets to keep the surface rust down. I have my hitch cranked up a little but it is rock solid passing 18 wheelers.

[flybouy]

Looks like John types faster than I do!

[JBWardFamily]

Thanks all for the replies. I'm definitely not going to skimp on the hitch and will probably end up with a Class V (2 1/2 inch) 12k lb rated one after getting it home. The tires are 2 inches bigger than stock, so it's really only an inch taller. They are BFG AT/KO2s and rated to tow as high as the truck. I've previously owned a 5th wheel with a F250 and the same size tires with good results.

[sourdough]

First, IMO a wdh/sway control is mandatory. Having done it I can assure you that 250 isn't going to drive along as if there's nothing back there and it will also try to get away from you if you don't have one.

That said, personally I would recommend an Equalizer 4 point. I used one for years and it never failed to perform. They also make all sorts of sizes/weights along with drop hitches that will fit your truck just fine. You DO NOT have to disconnect to park, back etc.

[Logan X]

I tow with a 2017 F250 diesel. I use the four point equalizer brand hitch with sway control and I am very happy with it. Equalizer has drop shanks available to deal with the height of your truck. I have never had to take of the WDH to back up or make tight turns.

[Keystoned]

Some of the friction type sway 'bars' could use loosening up before maneuvering really slow and tight turns or backing up as they will creak a lot if not. I used to hear sounds coming from the front of my truck without loosening them...pretty weird.