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Old 10-27-2022, 09:19 AM   #61
JBM3M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WDPatterson View Post
Do you have the "green" indicator on the regulator from the propane tanks?
Have you read the thread?
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2018 Cougar 1/2 ton 28sgs,
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Old 10-27-2022, 09:23 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by JBM3M View Post
Have you read the thread?
Four pages worth of thread. I didn't read the second page. Sorry about that.
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Old 10-27-2022, 09:30 AM   #63
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I had fresh full bottles, yes it was green, yes I was getting gas to the furnace. The problem was the brain of the outfit.
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2023 F350 SD, Crew, long bed, gooseneck puck, 5th (B&W Companion), and Class V bumper hitch. 6.7 PowerStroke.
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Old 10-27-2022, 09:37 AM   #64
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I must say, I learned a bunch fixing this and am glad I did. First thing I learned was: Go to Utube and find RV techs that do videos. There are many. I particularly like a dude out of Port Angeles WA. His teaching got me where I needed to go. Next thing was how the heater actually functioned, the pathways of operation....and failure.
Even though access was only from under the kitchen counter, it wasn't that bad and I am a crippled up dude. Appreciated all the help I got on the forum too, but it was usually too broad in spectrum whereas the Utube stuff I could dial in to my brand.
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Old 10-27-2022, 12:28 PM   #65
PilotIndy
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Well darn ! I was going to say circuit board, but I see from your post above mine, ya got it fixed and it was the card….

I’m betting on circuit board as the culprit. My gas furnace on my old Keystone Hideout 26BH did the exact thing you describe. The gas water heater on my new Passport did the same thing, no spark.

Most likely you had a capacitor go bad on your circuit board and now you have a no spark issue. Bad capacitors were the problem in my two instances. Replacing the boards solved the issue. I got both my boards as aftermarket from Dinosaur Electric. Seems like Dometic and Atwood both had a run of bad circuit cards at one point with junk capacitors.
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Old 10-27-2022, 08:34 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by JBM3M View Post
That sounds like hogwash. Leaking should not cause failure of the heater. I bet he found the sail switch wire had come off and figured you would not accept that? There is a 3" gap all around the heater except for the exhaust itself and that is dual pipe. Water can come in the pipe regardless of sealant.
Not too concerned what others think. We saw the water damage to the furnace and are going with it
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