Extra Torque

[dalamarjj78]

I'm in the process of upgrading to an Equalizer E4 WDH and, while browsing through the owners manual, noticed there are a few shank bolts that will need to be tightened to 320 ft lbs during the installation process.

The largest of my torque wrenches max out at 300 ft lbs and I was shocked at the price of a wrench that goes higher than that.

Is there a "trick" or tool accessory that could help me get that extra 20 ft lbs of torque without having to buy a really expensive torque wrench that will only be used for this job?

I found this on Amazon but it seems to have mixed reviews regarding the accuracy and longevity:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLITFW...v_ov_lig_dp_it

I plan on taking the hitch into a shop to have the hitch ball torqued to spec but would like to have the tools on hand to make any necessary adjustments to the shank bolts without having to go back to a mechanic to have them do it for me.

[CWtheMan]

Originally Posted by dalamarjj78

I'm in the process of upgrading to an Equalizer E4 WDH and, while browsing through the owners manual, noticed there are a few shank bolts that will need to be tightened to 320 ft lbs during the installation process.

The largest of my torque wrenches max out at 300 ft lbs and I was shocked at the price of a wrench that goes higher than that.

Is there a "trick" or tool accessory that could help me get that extra 20 ft lbs of torque without having to buy a really expensive torque wrench that will only be used for this job?

I found this on Amazon but it seems to have mixed reviews regarding the accuracy and longevity:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLITFW...v_ov_lig_dp_it

I plan on taking the hitch into a shop to have the hitch ball torqued to spec but would like to have the tools on hand to make any necessary adjustments to the shank bolts without having to go back to a mechanic to have them do it for me.

The picture provides the math for the least expensive way to increase torque.

[chuckster57]

I use an air impact gun. If the ball has the large shank it takes a 1 7/8” socket and I had to grind mine down to fit between the bar brackets.

[Millertyme76]

I am fortunate enough to work at a large engine assembly location. I am in the area that certifies torque wrenches. I was able to take one out to the parking lot and do mine. When certifying we use a 5% window. It is possible you are almost at the 320 with the current wrench you have.

[gearhead]

You could buy a real torque multiplier but it is much more expensive.
I would be surprised if many RV shops even have a torque wrench. If you ask them to torque something they will just use a impact gun.
I don't think Harbor Freight sells anything over 250 ftlbs.
So get your RV shop to show you their torque wrench or go asking around. Maybe stop at a smaller diesel shop and ask if they could torque it.
The diagram and formula that CW posted is likely the best solution.
This is what I used when needed many years ago:
https://www.amazon.com/Williams-TM-7...62&sr=1-9&th=1

[markcee]

Originally Posted by dalamarjj78

I'm in the process of upgrading to an Equalizer E4 WDH and, while browsing through the owners manual, noticed there are a few shank bolts that will need to be tightened to 320 ft lbs during the installation process.

The largest of my torque wrenches max out at 300 ft lbs and I was shocked at the price of a wrench that goes higher than that.

Is there a "trick" or tool accessory that could help me get that extra 20 ft lbs of torque without having to buy a really expensive torque wrench that will only be used for this job?

I found this on Amazon but it seems to have mixed reviews regarding the accuracy and longevity:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLITFW...v_ov_lig_dp_it

I plan on taking the hitch into a shop to have the hitch ball torqued to spec but would like to have the tools on hand to make any necessary adjustments to the shank bolts without having to go back to a mechanic to have them do it for me.

I actually purchased the digital adapter in your link for this purpose. I have not gotten to readjusting my Equalizer yet but have used it on the trailer lug nuts and it has worked fine when double-checking with a click type wrench.

[gearhead]

^^OP, there you go. Let us know how you like it.

[BrooksFam]

Maybe one of your local auto parts stores may have one to loan. They do loan many tools for customers to use.

[flybouy]

The largest of my torque wrenches max out at 300 ft lbs and I was shocked at the price of a wrench that goes higher than that.


If your wrench tops out at 300 then that's 93.765% of the 320 ft. lbs. I would tighten it to the max of that wrench then give it a little extra oomph. I don't think it's that critical.

[sourdough]

I agree with Marshall. Click it at 300 and grunt again. Last time I ran one up over 300 lbs. I had a cheater bar and both feet pushing against the garage door frame. Shoulda got a longer cheater bar......

[dalamarjj78]

Originally Posted by flybouy

The largest of my torque wrenches max out at 300 ft lbs and I was shocked at the price of a wrench that goes higher than that.


If your wrench tops out at 300 then that's 93.765% of the 320 ft. lbs. I would tighten it to the max of that wrench then give it a little extra oomph. I don't think it's that critical.

Originally Posted by sourdough

I agree with Marshall. Click it at 300 and grunt again. Last time I ran one up over 300 lbs. I had a cheater bar and both feet pushing against the garage door frame. Shoulda got a longer cheater bar......

Great, thanks! I wasn't sure how much it would matter if it ended up a few ft lbs off. Nice to hear it shouldn't be a big deal.

[gearhead]

X3 on the extra grunt.
What we used to call "Millwright tight".

[Mic]

Originally Posted by gearhead

You could buy a real torque multiplier but it is much more expensive.
I would be surprised if many RV shops even have a torque wrench. If you ask them to torque something they will just use a impact gun.
I don't think Harbor Freight sells anything over 250 ftlbs.
So get your RV shop to show you their torque wrench or go asking around. Maybe stop at a smaller diesel shop and ask if they could torque it.
The diagram and formula that CW posted is likely the best solution.
This is what I used when needed many years ago:
https://www.amazon.com/Williams-TM-7...62&sr=1-9&th=1

The 12k version has a payment plan....



wow


.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Mic

The 12k version has a payment plan....



wow


.

Should come with a title.

[gearhead]

Yeah they're expensive, but we weren't buying them. Pretty much a blank check with the employer buying tools.
I think for that much money you could get a hydraulic Hytorc set-up.
https://hytorc.com/hydraulic-tools

[Hankster]

210 pounds on an 18" breaker bar, or 160-175# on a 24" I'm pretty sure that the bolts aren't too critical as long as they're over 275 ft lbs, and under 400 ft lbs. As was stated even calibrated tools have a 5% window for error.

[flybouy]

Understand that. When I was working retail and restaurant industry the employer bought some fancy (read $$$$) equipment for testing/recording the digital force required to open doors, cabinets, etc. and digital slope meters for recording the grade of sidewalks, and other surfaces to meet ADA requirements for design and construction. Glad I didn't have to layout the cash for that stuff.

[chuckster57]

I just pull the trigger and when the socket no longer moves I’m done. Haven’t had one get loose in 10 years.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I just pull the trigger and when the socket no longer moves I’m done. Haven’t had one get loose in 10 years.

Same with me. The way I see it, if the torque requirement is 325 ftlbs, use a 100 ftlb wrench, torque it 3 times then 1/4 time and you're done...

OK, OK, I know LOL

Really though, I have a Ridgid 1/2" 18 volt impact wrench with settings of 300, 500 and 700 (A, B. C).

The maximum torque on a 1.25" grade 5 bolt is 1120 ftlbs. So with a "recommended torque of 325 ftlb, and a max torque of 1120 lbs, I know my impact wrench is going to exceed the "320 minimum" and not exceed the "1120 maximum" So, I set my impact wrench on C (700 ftlb) and when the nut stops turning, after a couple more "clicks" I consider it a "done deal"...

This isn't "rocket science" and we aren't building space ships or even installing vertical fins on KC-135 airplanes. We're not going to come close to the design failure criteria on anything close to what was engineered into a 2 5/16" trailer hitch ball by torqueing it somewhere "over 325 and below 1120 foot pounds". YMMV

ADDED: Now, if you're using a 3/4" shank ball or a 7/8" or a 1" shank, the above "min/max torques" don't apply, and "if you are using a ball with a small shank" you might want to check the maximum trailer capacity stamped on the ball. We should all be towing with hitch balls with ratings that exceed the maximum GVW of the heaviest trailer we'll couple to that hitch. I've seen setups with hitch balls rated at 6,000 pounds coupled to trailers with GVW's greater than 10,000 pounds. Almost always, the response is, "That's the way my dealer set it up".....

[gearhead]

In my ex-career torque values caused more heartburn than about anything. The worse I ever chewed on a vendors engineer's rear was about torque on a nat gas compressor: "What are y'all torquing this piping too?" "Uh whatever the right value is" "How do these guys know what that value is ?" "UH UH ..." "Yeah that's what you're going to tell the judge when a gasket blows out and cuts somebodies head off?" "Go back in your office and make a chart with values on it and a spot for the guys to initial. Then mark what has been torqued."
We went from just getting things tighter than a bear dogs butt to actually torquing pressure retaining bolts on hydrocarbon equipment. A leak and a fire because someone didn't know a torque value and didn't take 10 minutes to torque something became unacceptable.
So, if I'm given a torque value I try to get there. But like John says it also depends on the bolt and what the bolt is doing.