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Old 07-09-2019, 06:12 AM   #21
MarkEHansen
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Again, I wasn't trying to argue whether or not the CO will still have power (or whether it should, etc.). Only that it wasn't a requirement from RVIA that it be excluded from the BCO switch. This is (I think) my third attempt to clarify that, so I'll stop at this point.
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Old 07-09-2019, 07:32 AM   #22
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I would agree with a couple posts above, RV manufacturers seem to be required to install battery disconnect switch’s that do NOT turn everything off. There are a lot of people that travel with factory disconnect shutting off most of the power while traveling and then pulling over and sleeping/napping and then traveling again, thus the need to keep the CO/smoke detectors powered.

A 100% disconnect switch may need to be installed by the owner for storage to get around the regulations. The factory disconnect will allow draining the batteries to the point of damaging them in a couple weeks or less.
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Old 07-09-2019, 09:37 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHen View Post
I would agree with a couple posts above, RV manufacturers seem to be required to install battery disconnect switch’s that do NOT turn everything off. There are a lot of people that travel with factory disconnect shutting off most of the power while traveling and then pulling over and sleeping/napping and then traveling again, thus the need to keep the CO/smoke detectors powered.
A 100% disconnect switch may need to be installed by the owner for storage to get around the regulations. The factory disconnect will allow draining the batteries to the point of damaging them in a couple weeks or less.
In that example, if the BCO switch disabled the entire trailer, there would be no emergency braking if the trailer separated from the tow vehicle, yet another reason why the OEM BCO switch is wired the way it is.
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:17 AM   #24
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In that example, if the BCO switch disabled the entire trailer, there would be no emergency braking if the trailer separated from the tow vehicle, yet another reason why the OEM BCO switch is wired the way it is.


Yes, totally correct, a full battery cutoff should only be used for storage.
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:50 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by GHen View Post
There are a lot of people that travel with factory disconnect shutting off most of the power while traveling and then pulling over and sleeping/napping and then traveling again, thus the need to keep the CO/smoke detectors powered.
I realize the fact that I can't imagine someone wanting to do this doesn't mean that there isn't somebody who does it.

As wired, what the battery disconnect switch DOES kill are the lights, the (toilet) water pump, the propane fridge, the skylight fans... pretty much every basic comfort one would need to have a better-than-caveman overnight experience from an RV. (Except for the radio, which I consider inexplicable.)

It also doesn't actually disconnect the battery to prevent power drain in storage, which is what most people would naturally expect it to do.

As wired, I just don't understand why it exists. It doesn't do what a repairman needs, and it doesn't do what an owner expects. We all know that if vehicle manufacturers can save a buck per unit, they'll do it; which is why I would genuinely like to understand why Keystone thinks that a "mystery switch" that satisfies practically nobody's requirements was important enough to offer standard. (I'm not ignoring the regulatory issue, which is equally well addressed by omitting the switch entirely.)

(I understand the point about the tongue jack and breakaway switch; however, these aren't vampire loads, because unless you are actively using them, they drain zero power. Bypassing those shouldn't be controversial. In my old rig, which had no disconnect switch, this was taken care of by having multiple independent positive cables stacked on the battery post.)
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:36 PM   #26
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As far as a battery disconnect switch being installed in an RV; I have no idea why. I've never disconnected mine for any reason but did have to replace it because it began causing problems when it became defective....from lack of use I guess.

When I did try it out when it was becoming problematic I was like everyone else - some things were cut off and some weren't. My CO/LP detector stayed on all the time along with the light on the front of the stereo and who knows what else. Why? I have no idea. I used my lights to let me know if the switch was working or not.

Are those things required by the RVIA? I assume so because they all (RVs) seem to come that way. RVIA says they follow the established NFPA/ANSI codes. I have spent 2 days trying to "get" the RVIA codes - ain't gonna happen that I can find unless I want to pay for a book; and you may have to be a dealer to do that, I didn't go that far. NFPA/ANSI codes for RVs are almost as elusive. As for myself, a full battery disconnect from the primary battery cable makes the presence of a factory "battery disconnect" immaterial. I only use it if the trailer is in storage, and even then very seldom. I would never think to disconnect the battery when traveling for the reasons mentioned above.

For some light reading enjoyment, and further edification in the event we didn't know all of this stuff, here is a link to some NFPA standards for RVs that might prove to be interesting...or extremely boring. It took me 2 days to stumble onto this, the only thing I could find that didn't require a membership or credit card...

https://files.meetup.com/14200282/NF...192-15-PDF.pdf
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Old 07-09-2019, 03:30 PM   #27
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I agree, the factory disconnect is worthless. I never use mine. I can understand requirements to shut off propane fuel/flames at fuel stations, tunnels or for an accident. If I really stretch my mind, I could see the same for disconnecting the electrical, maybe...I certainly see no benefit to shutting off half the power , maybe to limit sparks when the rv disintegrates in an accident.

It’s a waste of the manufacturer money except to fulfill some poorly designed government regulation.
I guess I better read more of above and other discussions to see the errors in my comments, but I fear I’ll be wasting more of my time.

The only repair ever needed for my 5th wheel was a warranty covered RECALL that the switch was wired incorrectly, dah, of course it is! It was wired to allow the LED lights to operate when the switch was in disconnect mode. I wasted 3 hours of my time and 40 miles of fuel to take care of a mandatory recall dealer drop off for repairs.

I need to go fishing or have drink, happy camping everyone! [emoji3]
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Old 07-09-2019, 05:48 PM   #28
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My 2012 Copper Canyon doesn’t have a disconnect.
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:38 AM   #29
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I would think it would be a safety issue for the propane gas detector not to be functioning at all times.
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:43 AM   #30
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I would think it would be a safety issue for the propane gas detector not to be functioning at all times.
It's not functioning when the battery has been removed in storage.
It's not functioning when the battery hasn't been removed in storage, but the propane detector has drained the battery by continuing to operate.
So what's the problem with it not functioning when the 12V cutoff switch is enabled? This switch is not meant to be enabled during actual use of the rig.
You may want to review all of the previous posts in the thread.
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Old 07-11-2019, 11:10 AM   #31
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I did read the past posts. In my opinion it is left operational to catch any possible LP leaks. So hopefully it would alarm someone before enter the trailer. Yes it would drain the battery down and becomes self defeating as the alarm will stop working. Its a catch 22 situation.
PS when I store my unit for a long period of time, I disconnect the hoses to the Propane bottles and remove the battery. For the short term I top off the battery weekly with my generator.
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Old 07-11-2019, 12:10 PM   #32
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I installed a battery disconnect switch inside the battery compartment, on the Positive lead to the battery. I always open the switch when the trailer is in storage. It protects the battery from being discharged when the trailer is not being used.
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Old 07-11-2019, 01:47 PM   #33
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My Keystone Avalanche has it in the forward compartment ahead of the pass through compartment ,a smaller compartment that also stores the battery. And not sure if right or not but even at home with shore power I still leave it on. I figure the shore power would help the battery keep its charge??
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Old 07-11-2019, 01:49 PM   #34
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My Keystone Avalanche has it in the forward compartment ahead of the pass through compartment ,a smaller compartment that also stores the battery. And not sure if right or not but even at home with shore power I still leave it on. I figure the shore power would help the battery keep its charge??
Absolutely.

If you're going to leave it on constant charge like that, don't forget to maintain the water level.
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Old 07-14-2019, 07:46 AM   #35
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Disconnect

I installed a switch so it shuts everything off,, which is the way I wanted it when I store it. I understand why the factory may not be able legally to do that, for liability issue
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Old 07-14-2019, 08:42 AM   #36
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In my 2018 Keystone Cougar 344MKS, the battery disconnect is in the same area as the handles for dumping black and gray water. The disconnect switch only disconnects 12volt power to the inside of the rig. All outside functions like slides, awning, and leveling jacks still function. You need to completely disconnect connections to the battery to disable everything.
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Old 07-14-2019, 09:07 AM   #37
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Greetings all. First time Keystone owner and first time posting. Thanks in advance for your time to reply and help out a fellow rv'er.


Just took ownership of a 2019 Keystone Sprinter Campfire 27FWML. I have not been able to locate a 12v disconnect switch. If there is not one, do you recommend installing one? I realize I could just take the battery cables off but wanted to do it right.


Many thanks and I look forward to contributing in any way I can.
Hi I have seen the battery disconnect switch in with the battery and hydraulic compartment
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Old 07-14-2019, 11:08 AM   #38
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[QUOTE=MarkEHansen;348790]Welcome to the forum and RV family!

The battery disconnect switch usually looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/WATERWICH-12-...dp/B07H7ZW4L1/

If installed, it will usually be in the forward pass-through compartment.

Note that if installed, the battery disconnect switch doesn't really disconnect all loads from the battery - some will stay connected, like CO detectors, stand-by power on RV electronics, tongue jacks, etc.

If storing the RV without shore-line power for more than a few days, you really need to disconnect the battery - I take mine home and store it on a battery maintainer, like the Battery Tender - to keep it charged and ready to go.[/QUOTE

I beg to differ on this. The disconnect will disconnect everything EXCEPT the electric jack. That is why I reversed the wires so that the NEGATIVE (-) cable goes to the switch. That way ALL power is removed.

Happy Camping.
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Old 07-14-2019, 11:17 AM   #39
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If what JRTJH states is true, than what the heck good is a disconnect switch?? Just wondering. It is a known fact that all the devices named by JRTJH are the ones consuming quite a bit of power and therefore are responsible for the battery being drained. THINK ABOUT IT!!
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Old 07-14-2019, 11:51 AM   #40
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My 2019 Cougar the cutoff switch is located on the driver side in the compartment with the drain controls.
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