Need some assist on hook up

[Outbackmel]

My 2011 36' Outback pulls like a dream. Just returned to HOTlanta from 3 weeks in north and south Florida. Saw Atlantis launch! Great.

In my 2 previous trips; I have been able to snap the 5er to the tow vehicle with no difficulty. This trip I managed, but not without issue. I am thinking the nose of the 5er needs to be slightly raised and perhaps the hitch box in the truck bed raised to the highest position. ( presently one slot below max).

When I set the 5er to hookup, the latch on the Curt hitch goes 95% across BUT although no "gap"; the locking handle on the hitch does not "pop" and then hang free as it did on the previous trips and hookups. I had to physically use all my strength to "force" it the final 1 inch or so to ensure it was secure and locked.

It's a new set up, only 6 months old. I sprayed the workings with WD-40 but no help.

Anyone have experience with this type of issue?

[hankpage]

If truck or trailer are not level with each other this can happen. Pin-box should be slightly lower than hitch plate so that it is lifted slightly (or truck squats slightly) and the pivot on the hitch levels out with no gap. Don't be afraid to "bump" the pin a little to engage the latch. (With wheels chocked of course) The hitch height should be adjusted so the trailer rides level with adequate bed-rail clearance ... it should not effect hitching. Hitching with trailer too high will also cause the problem you mention as pin will not be in jaws correctly. JM2¢, Hank

[Outbackmel]

Hank,

Thanks. I do exactly as you mention. The only difference is perhaps the setup is slightly downward AFTER hookup. I DO use a silicone type pin/hitch disc in lieu of greasing. Perhaps the combination of slightly downward pressure AND the added thickness (which is minimal) of the "disc" are the culprit.

I am going to the place where I purchased the hitch and have them check it and move it to the highest position.

DO the pin boxes on the 5er's move as well? Thinking maybe if I move both to the max height, problem will be taken care of.

[hankpage]

The disc should have little effect, if any. I use one myself. Forward or backward angle should be corrected by the pivot of the hitch plate. (Some rock side to side also)

Yes, the pin-box is adjustable also, but again is only needed to ride as close to level and maintain bed-rail clearance. The height of the hitch and pin-box should be determined with the trailer loaded and hitched. Be sure the pin-box is torqued correctly if you move it.

[Paddler]

Thank goodness, someone else has had problems hitching up the 5er I never have any problems hooking up solo at the storage lot, but always have problems hooking up, with BH's assistance, at the campsite.

Finally figured out the problem was and a solution that works for me. After I have the 5er in position to unhook, I raise the landing gear til I can see a bit of air under the teflon spacer... I stop and get out my measuring tape and measure the height of the 5er to ground (pick a reference point and always use the same point). I then write this number down (cause I'm old) and disconnect the truck from the 5er.

When we go to hook up the truck, I adjust the trailer back to that height with the landing gear. No worries mate, locks in first time every time. The reason I never had any issues at the storage lot was because I never leveled the 5er there. Just unhook and go...its the leveling the 5er that was messing me up at the campground. Now I carry a notepad and tape measure in the storage compartment next to the wheel chocks. Lessons learned.

[cumminsdad08]

never use WD 40 as a lube, i works great to loosen things up, but it evapurates(sp?) not long after that. it is very effective at cleaning out the grease and junk though. so with that said, i would go out and grease whatever you sprayed it with, cause there might not be much left. not starting any battles on lube or anything, but i if you ever used it on your bike chain as a kid, it always worked awsome for that day, but you had to spray it next time too. just something that i learned over the years( i work on overhead doors). i do keep a can in all my trucks, and garages. it is good stuff, just not a lube. just something to keep in mind.

[hankpage]

Originally Posted by cumminsdad08

never use WD 40 as a lube, i works great to loosen things up, but it evaporates but i if you ever used it on your bike chain as a kid, it always worked awsome for that day, but you had to spray it next time too. .

We had WD 20 when I was a kid! And it smelled like fish oil.
I use the lube plate and still grease the heck out of everything on my 17 year old Reese hitch and it hooks up every time. It's broken in like an old pair of slippers. They need water-proof GREASE on everything that moves. That's why the DW disappears when I'm getting ready for a trip.

[geo]

Probably overkill, but in the spring, I dis-assemble the fifth wheel hitch and degrease, clean, inspect, brush, and repaint. Re-assemble it with fresh grease and a new Teflon disk, makes my mind at ease. Yes, I know ... a little overboard. But if you park beneath oak trees, you would be surprised how much tree trash blows up into the hitch and gets trapped in the old grease. Might give the overboard cleaning a try, couldn't hurt, could it?

I got a "Memory Level" from CW. Now when I reach that point to see light between the hitch and the Teflon disk, I just move the slider to cover the bubble on the memory level that's mounted next to the landing gear controls. Overall, easier than measuring, besides, I would probably lose my measuring notes!

Ron

[hankpage]

Originally Posted by geo

Probably overkill, but in the spring, I dis-assemble the fifth wheel hitch and degrease, clean, inspect, brush, and repaint. Re-assemble it with fresh grease and a new Teflon disk, makes my mind at ease. Yes, I know ... a little overboard. But if you park beneath oak trees, you would be surprised how much tree trash blows up into the hitch and gets trapped in the old grease. Might give the overboard cleaning a try, couldn't hurt, could it?
Ron

I live near the ocean and that sand gets stuck in that grease like sprinkles on an ice cream cone. Tried covering and storing in the shed but them little gremlins got in there anyway. So, Yes, degrease, clean, inspect and slop new grease on every season. Not the DW ... the hitch! But minimal wear on both.

[Outbackmel]

Some very good points. I did notice that when I set the hitch for "release" and the bar pulls back easily; makes sense to measure and reconnect at the same height. I have been eye balling the distance. (and I do have cataracts). I'll try the notepad approach.

All tips on the WD-40 and annual greasing make sense. My hitch is protected when not in use by my full "Roll n Lock" bed topper. I leave my production truck gate home when I travel and use a special gate once I arrive and drop the 5er. Provides the security I desire.

I am going to have RV World of Georgia set my pin box adjustment and bolt torque. With the hitch, I am taking it back to the dealer to assess that it is functioning properly, raised and tightened properly as well.

I only use the 2008 Dodge 2500 diesel for the 5er, so once set; it will pretty much "be there" until I die At age 68; this tow vehicle; with 24,000 miles will surely out live either me or my desire to tow

[Paddler]

I think Geo's suggestion of using the Hitching Memory Level is a great idea. I looked at it online last night at CW and for 9 bucks it seems to be the perfect easy solution. I should have one mounted in the very near future. Thanks Geo

[Outbackmel]

Sounds like a plan. Going to get one this week. For $10; I'll try anything that sounds reasonable.

[Houndie Dog]

If all else fails, here is what I did to fix mine when I had the same problem and it has nothing to do with lubrication.
I found that on my hitch, the mechanism loosened up a bit and this effected the lock when hooking up. I took the actual plate off of the fifthwheel support (just held on with pins) and found that there was a "STAR" type push on lock washer(shown in the white circles) that had slid down and allowed the whole monkey motion to loosen up abit. I put a socket over them and gentley tapped them back down snug and everything worked great......


This is on a superglide but may be the same on yours.

[msp2jxr]

First thing I do after backing into a spot is I stand next to the 5'ver and measure the nose of the trailer to my head (yes I am short!) and make a mental note of the height so when I hook the trailer back up I know where the trailer needs to be to hook up. Usually between my nose and my chin. As to your second problem I have the Valley sliding hitch and I had bent the latching mechanism by hitching once when the trailer was to high. I had problems trying to get the latch to hook after the high hook up like you are having. I was able to go into the hitch and straighten the bent latching mechanism back to original, re-greased and now it works fines. Just food for thought..

[Johnnyfry]

Well, cumminsdad08 is definitely correct, WD40 is not a lubricant. The WD stands for water displacer and it's function is to displace water and clean out old lube and dirt.

As to hitching up, I am still a rank neophyte but I have found that taking a measurement between the bed and the bottom of the pin box works for me. After a clean un-hitch (and a trial re-hitch) I measured 14 1/2 inches. I back up until the pin box is inside the bed and measure. I use the landing gear to adjust to 14 1/2, works every time.

John

[hankpage]

Originally Posted by Houndie Dog

that had slid down and allowed the whole monkey motion to loosen up abit.

I'm not sure that my Reese has a "Monkey Motion" devise.

Good post Houndie Dog, but I could not resist. Hank

[Houndie Dog]

Hank,
what do you think makes the little coupling flip around the kingpin ? At the exact moment of contact the monkey twists the coupling around the kingpin.....at least that is what my RV dealer told me

[dave67]

What Curt hutch do you have?I have the Curt Q5 and was having problems and called Curt and they told me to make sure when hooking up that the nose of the trailer is a bit lower when hooking so it puts weight on it and the jaws lock around the pin.So far it has been working.Have you greased your hitch?Mine has three zerk fittings and was told by Curt rep to grease them even though hitch was new.

[anthonbloom]

I'm a bit late joining the thread, but I found a simple solution to setting the pin height after installing a BakFlip tonneau cover which, I discovered, obscured my view of the hitch. I made a plumb bob by tying a piece of string to 2" bolt and adjusted a loop in the other end to the correct height. Hang the loop on the front lip of the pin box and adjust the landing legs and you have the right height. Wind the string round the bolt and keep it handy. I also painted a white line on the center of the pin box and bent a piece of galvanized strapping to grip the front edge at the center of the hitch. This sticks up like a gun sight and is used to line up with the painted line and works well with the hitch mirror. Low tech but works great!
Incidentally I would recommend the BackFlip which is easily installed, sits level with the box rails and is sturdy enough to jump on. I can tow with it folded 3/4 back and as soon as I am unhitched the truck bed is secure.

[rbjsaylo]

We just bought a new 5ver this year (after owning a TT) and was a complete nube when it came to hooking up and towing. My dealer rep who did the walk through with us made an excellent suggestion. He had our new 5ver ready to back up to and already at level. He suggested that we spray paint a line on the front landing jack at the current level before we hook up. No matter what we have to do to level after unhooking, we always know where to position the landing gear before backing up to hook. Not sure if this helps or not.