Typical RV Electrical System

Folkie · 12-15-2022, 09:24 AM

I wasn't sure of the best place to post this.

I put drew up a typical camper electrical diagram for some friends that are limited on their electrical knowledge. I thought I would share it with the folks here that are new to campers with the hope that it might help their understanding and troubleshooting.

Note: There is an updated diagram in post #12

**JRTJH** · 12-15-2022, 09:47 AM

Phil,

Your diagram looks good and will likely help some "nubies" better understand their RV electrical system..

One observation though, the "black line" from the converter/charger to the 12 VDC Battery Bank should be a "red line"... That connection is always going to be 12 VDC.

Thanks for sharing it with us.

dutchmensport · 12-15-2022, 09:49 AM

Your flow chart looks good. But the "inverter" doesn't seem quite right. Inverrters are powered form the battery only (12 volt DC in) and output is 120 volt AC that then goes to the AC breaker box. Also, there is a transfer switch that switches from shore power (AC) to the invrerter's AC power.

See diagram below, or just use this one:

CampNBrew2 · 12-15-2022, 09:52 AM

Nice work there! Many people don't know what appliances/functions run on what source.
You could also add 12VDC fridge and 12v/propane fridge to the 12v box or a residential style in the 120V/inverter box.
Hard to know when to stop while trying to keep it basic LOL.
The trailer brakes and emergency breakaway switch operation I feel are also an important lesson to newbies.
Thanks for sharing!

dutchmensport · 12-15-2022, 10:02 AM

Agree with JTRJH above. Switch the black line from Charger/Converter ---> 12 VDC Battery Bank to Red, AND switch the 120 VAC Receptacles ----> Inverter (if installed) the opposite direction and I think you got it there!

Folkie · 12-15-2022, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Phil,

Your diagram looks good and will likely help some "nubies" better understand their RV electrical system..

One observation though, the "black line" from the converter/charger to the 12 VDC Battery Bank should be a "red line"... That connection is always going to be 12 VDC.

Thanks for sharing it with us.

Good catch. Thanks, I'll fix that.

Folkie · 12-15-2022, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

Your flow chart looks good. But the "inverter" doesn't seem quite right. Inverrters are powered form the battery only (12 volt DC in) and output is 120 volt AC that then goes to the AC breaker box. Also, there is a transfer switch that switches from shore power (AC) to the invrerter's AC power.

See diagram below, or just use this one:

What I was trying to show is the 120 VAC that passes through the inverter to the dedicated outlets when on shore power. Not sure how improve that. Guess the dotted black line has to go back to the breaker panel.

**JRTJH** · 12-15-2022, 10:14 AM

I've got "mixed emotions" about the line between the inverter and the 120 VAC receptacles. Why ???

In Keystone products, there is a "inverter loop" that provides AC power to specific receptacles. Installing an inverter in that loop, would provide power "as seen in the diagram"....

In some other trailers (and in some Keystone products with a transfer switch separate from the inverter) the AC power is "from the source" not from the receptacles....

So, there are several configurations available, depending on the equipment used, trailer wiring and whether there is a separate or a built in transfer switch inside the inverter....

With some understanding of the electrical system (something most nubies don't have) the diagram does reflect the way Keystone wires that "specific receptacles inverter loop"

Trying to provide a single diagram for multiple inverter systems defeats the KISS principle .... JMHO YMMV

Folkie · 12-15-2022, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CampNBrew2

Nice work there! Many people don't know what appliances/functions run on what source.
You could also add 12VDC fridge and 12v/propane fridge to the 12v box or a residential style in the 120V/inverter box.
Hard to know when to stop while trying to keep it basic LOL.
The trailer brakes and emergency breakaway switch operation I feel are also an important lesson to newbies.
Thanks for sharing!

I had those thoughts as well. I guess "typical" and "etc." have to cover a lot.

**chuckster57** · 12-15-2022, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

Your flow chart looks good. But the "inverter" doesn't seem quite right. Inverrters are powered form the battery only (12 volt DC in) and output is 120 volt AC that then goes to the AC breaker box. Also, there is a transfer switch that switches from shore power (AC) to the invrerter's AC power.

See diagram below, or just use this one:

Depends on the inverter, some have a built in “transfer switch” so no external one is needed. I have installed a few, “Go Power” is one brand that has pass through so there is 12VDC in, 120VAC in and 120VAC out.

Don’t want to add confusion to this thread, just wanted to add more information.

Folkie · 12-15-2022, 11:36 AM

That's how my factory installed Freedom X is installed.

Folkie · 12-15-2022, 12:55 PM

Thanks to everyone for your comments. I made some changes to the diagram to try and incorporate those thoughts. With the understanding that I can't show every option and keep it "simple" I added a note that says some items may be 120V or 12V or powered by the inverter. Hopefully that helps and won't create any more confusion.

I welcome any more thoughts.

Thanks,
Phil

dutchmensport · 12-15-2022, 04:02 PM

Looks good. Nice job there!

LHaven · 12-22-2022, 09:09 AM

My only comment is that you have your fridge as a 120V item only. Most commonly, the fridge is connected to both power systems, needing 12VDC when running off propane.

I know that as an RV newbie 25 years ago, I thought my fridge's propane system was "propane-only," like the system in my dad's 1965 Skamper, and was rudely awakened when it stopped working.

Folkie · 12-22-2022, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LHaven

My only comment is that you have your fridge as a 120V item only. Most commonly, the fridge is connected to both power systems, needing 12VDC when running off propane.

I know that as an RV newbie 25 years ago, I thought my fridge's propane system was "propane-only," like the system in my dad's 1965 Skamper, and was rudely awakened when it stopped working.

I understand. My first 2 campers had basic propane only refrigerators. They were a pain to light, but no issues with bad control boards or fuses like my current one.

I recognize that the drawing will never cover all setups, but my thought process lumped the 12VDC portion of a 120V/propane refrigerator under "control circuits" along with water heater control, In-Command, tank level indicators, battery status meter, etc.

**chuckster57** · 12-22-2022, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Folkie

I understand. My first 2 campers had basic propane only refrigerators. They were a pain to light, but no issues with bad control boards or fuses like my current one.

I recognize that the drawing will never cover all setups, but my thought process lumped the 12VDC portion of a 120V/propane refrigerator under "control circuits" along with water heater control, In-Command, tank level indicators, battery status meter, etc.

Yup, I remember the old Dometic in dads 1969 Ideal TT. And it had a propane light for the dinette.

notanlines · 12-23-2022, 04:49 AM

Folkie, ya done good, fella! Some folks will always look to see where the weakness might be. This is a good, general description and should help a large number of newbies.

Folkie · 12-23-2022, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notanlines

Folkie, ya done good, fella! Some folks will always look to see where the weakness might be. This is a good, general description and should help a large number of newbies.

Thanks, I didn't mean to sound like I was being defensive. I asked for comments and incorporated those that I could and ended up with a better diagram thanks to all the experience folks on this forum have. I have learned a lot on here and I just wanted to contribute something that hopefully will be of some benefit to others.

rhagfo · 12-24-2022, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Folkie

Thanks, I didn't mean to sound like I was being defensive. I asked for comments and incorporated those that I could and ended up with a better diagram thanks to all the experience folks on this forum have. I have learned a lot on here and I just wanted to contribute something that hopefully will be of some benefit to others.

One thing that is missing is that with the correct main breaker you can one 240 volt circuit with a 50 amp service.

**sourdough** · 12-24-2022, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Folkie

Thanks, I didn't mean to sound like I was being defensive. I asked for comments and incorporated those that I could and ended up with a better diagram thanks to all the experience folks on this forum have. I have learned a lot on here and I just wanted to contribute something that hopefully will be of some benefit to others.

You've done a great job and one that will benefit any number of new folks that have not the slightest idea of the power systems that are in an RV. There are any number of "variations" might or could happen in any RV scenario but the important part is the basics. Don't fret over the nitpicking....for those situations where the individual's situation doesn't fit the diagram they can ask.

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