2013 Cougar heater stays on

[Super Dave]

I have a 2013 keystone cougar 320 QBS last night was the first night I stayed in it and my heater fan stayed on the entire night and drained my battery. I switched it to auto but it stayed on continuously anybody else have this problem?

[Lee]

Was it producing heat?

I'm guessing not.

My heater, if is operating normally then sometime during the night runs out of propane will act like yours.

Did you run out of propane? Can you lite a burner on the stove top?

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Super Dave

I have a 2013 keystone cougar 320 QBS last night was the first night I stayed in it and my heater fan stayed on the entire night and drained my battery. I switched it to auto but it stayed on continuously anybody else have this problem?

Welcome to the forum

When you switched the fan to auto you only changed the fan on the roof AC unit. Your furnace fan only runs when your using it.

If you turn the thermostat to heat and turn the temp up, your furnace should start with the fan and then light. Can you describe exactly what is happening? What make model of AC, Furnace and thermostat.

[Super Dave]

Have propane, it stays on after it cycles. When it hit the temp to shut down the fan doesn’t. Ran all night long.

[Super Dave]

When it’s on it drags all the power away from lights fridge and such. Could the battery be bad?

[ChuckS]

Looks like you have the Suburban 30M furnace controlled via a Coleman Mach thermostat..

Typically if the Furnace fails to light ( which you state yours does light ) it will attempt 3 times to light and if it fails it will go into lockout mode..

If this occurs the Fan WILL NOT RUN again until you cycle thermostat OFF and ON to clear lock out mode.

It sounds like the Thermostat is either not sending the signal down to the furnace control board telling furnace it has reached the set point or the furnace control board time delay relay is sticking and not turning off the blower ( assuming just the fan continued to run with no heat )

[ChuckS]

Link to service manual that covers your thermostat

https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/upl...Thermostat.pdf

[Super Dave]

It lights it heats now I’m not sure what’s going on. When it’s on it drains everything. It’ll work just fine but when I turn the heater on it drains the power lights dim fridge gos off but turn it off and the battery charges back up and everything works again

[ChuckS]

Originally Posted by Super Dave

It lights it heats now I’m not sure what’s going on. When it’s on it drains everything. It’ll work just fine but when I turn the heater on it drains the power lights dim fridge gos off but turn it off and the battery charges back up and everything works again

IF you are not plugged into shore power then the batteries are really weak. If you ARE plugged into shore power then either the converter is not working and/or the batteries have a bad cell or corroded connections..

I would start first by checking the state of the batteries and cable connections and then check the output of the converter with the batteries disconnected..

About a ten minute task with a multimeter

[Super Dave]

Yes sir. Battery had bad cell. Got a new one and added another one. Everything is fine now. Didn’t know a bad battery would cause all this.

[ChuckS]

Glad all is well now with the new battery.. If you did not take a few minutes and check the converter output with NO battery connected it would be worth the few minutes of time to make this test..

Since the RV is a 2013 I assume its still got the original converter installed and you would want to verify that its actually working within spec..

You should see around 13.4 to 13.8 volts out of the converter when measured at the battery terminals with battery disconnected

[Super Dave]

How do you do that? I had the battery out and it would run a few things but not much

[ChuckS]

if you have a simple multimeter the set it to DC volt scale..

Remove the battery leads being careful to not let the positive lead short to the frame, etc

With shore power plugged in then use multimeter at the previously removed battery leads and measure with Red lead to positive cable and black lead to negative cable or Frame ground

Should read 13.4 to 13.8 volts

The converter WILL OPERATE ALL 12 volt items in that RV on just the converter with no batteries connected IF it is working at spec.

DO NOT operate ANY slides or leveling system legs ( these draw too much current) for the converter to adequately supply power to

If converter read correctly as stated above then reconnect battery leads being careful to connect correct lead to each post or YOU WILL BLOW the two reverse polarity fuses and the converter will not charge your batteries or provide 12 volts DC to the Main power center DC BUS

A good read for you...
https://wfcoelectronics.com/theory-of-operation/

Also this generic troubleshooting chart might help you on how to verify proper converter operation
https://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-conte...800-Series.pdf

[Super Dave]

Awesome! Thanks for the advice! I’ll do it