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Old 10-28-2022, 08:48 AM   #21
flybouy
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,750
Quote:
Originally Posted by scott moyer View Post
I have not tried that ...because I have power at all lights

I can try that on my next trip to Virginia were my RV is located.
Because it is so far away the more tests I have queued up the better.

If I wanted to take a new fan switch with me were would be the best site to buy one ?


Scott
Scott if you have power at the device, by that I mean positive and negative leads of the voltmeter connected to the positive and negative connections AT THE DEVICE then it only leaves that device (or component of that device) as a possible cause for failure. If you are testing at any other point, then you have only confirmed that you have power AT THAT POINT.

As an example a light fixture doesn't work. First thing is to check for a burned out bulb by replacing with a known working bulb or try the bulb from the non-working lamp and put it in a fixture that you know works. If the bulb is OK then you look at the socket and see if there is voltage present. If no voltage then check the connection where that the lamp is wired into the circuit.

When you have multiple devices on a circuit that don't work then look at what's common to all those devices, i.e. CONFIRM that the fuse is good by pulling it out and checking for continuity with an ohm meter. Then check every connection from that point forward. A loose wire nut, a corroded wire inside a wire nut or other connector, a wire that's been cut or chewed in two by a rodent are some of the possibilities of an interrupted circuit.
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