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Old 08-16-2011, 09:07 AM   #1
BlackGTS
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Attic space vent??

Has anyone with a 5er added venting to the roof that will let the hot air out of the attic space? What was the result? I am in Central Florida and need all the help I can get. I have an 07 Laredo RK and I would think that a couple on the low side of the roof towards the rear would let air in and a couple at the apex would let the hot air out. I am getting ready to replace the roof so now would be the time do do it.

Any comments?


Ron
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Old 08-16-2011, 09:33 AM   #2
Festus2
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I am not sure how effective it would be to add attic vents. If you take a look at the roofing schematic of your model, it shows that the attic is (or should be) fully insulated which should result in no air space between the RV ceiling and roof top. Also, there are cross beams/rafters spanning the roof so you are looking at a number of "attics" rather than one. It would seem like if you did add any vents, you would have to add one to each separate "attic". I somehow doubt if you would get much airflow between the rear and the roof apex.
I hope we are talking about the same thing here..... as in "attic".... the space between the RV ceiling and the RV roof top.
If you are concerned about keeping out the heat, why not beef up your roof insulation or remove it and replace it with the maximum R value you can get that will fit into the space?
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Old 08-16-2011, 05:04 PM   #3
BlackGTS
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When I retaped my inside AC ducts I saw no insulation in the "attic". Your point about the cross beams sealing off each section is something I didn't consider. If each space is sealed off from the next then this idea obviously wouldn't work. I was thinking that the crossmembers in the roof, if they were aluminum, would have cutouts in them thus allowing air to move through the entire attic space.

Guess I'll have to wait until I replace the roof to see what is up there.


Ron
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:10 PM   #4
hankpage
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I am pretty sure the roof trusses in my Cougar are wood. If you want to vent the "attic" while in storage I would think removing the inside trim from your 14x14 roof vents might help with vents open. (covered of course) I will check tomorrow but I think the insulation is just laying on the ceiling. Some of the wiring runs through the ceiling so there is space for air-flow through the trusses. You are aware that the EPDM roofing is warrantied for at least ten years. If it is just discolored KoolSeal primer and coating would make it look whiter than new. I did my last trailer at ten years old and it came out great. JM2¢, Hank
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:24 AM   #5
BlackGTS
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Is the EPDM warranty through Keystone? Transferable? Sad that a 4 year old (almost 5) roof is rotted in a dozen spots. This was probably due to faulty sealing and caulking and maybe not so much the EPDM. The roof line is leaking on both sides almost the entire length of the 5er from the hump on down. Leaking around the skylight, in both rear corners, etc. I had planned on taking the EPDM off, placing a new layer of luan on the top over the existing luan and then putting on a new layer of EPDM. And THEN I will seal everything the way it should have been done at the factory. I definitely have a Monday morning RV.

I should be able to see what kind of roof trusses I have once the total extent of the damage is known.

Ron
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