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Old 12-20-2020, 08:13 PM   #41
RoadToad
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In every scheme I have ever encountered, 1-Gnd is White, 2-Brake is Blue.
Thereafter it's not as clear cut.
Usually Green is Rt Turn and Yellow is Left turn.(Not always).

That is why I highly recommend a screw terminal box at the trailer end of it all.
Then you can, with high confidence, Join the two whites, join the two Blues and use probe light to determine all others.
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Old 12-20-2020, 08:22 PM   #42
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Be very careful not to let wires in the whip touch each other. Blown fuses could result.
With the truck running, the "Charging wire" will be hot (often Red); the trailers cable end will also have a Hot wire (if batteries exist and are charged). Join those two wires together.
Determine which turn signal goes on which connector and which is running lights, and the remaining wire (if it exists) is usually Backup lights. (sometimes a totally different function though)(like a backup-horn, dump gates, etc).
Many derivations of this. Your probe is your best friend here. lol
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Old 12-21-2020, 02:58 AM   #43
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I prefer doing this all with the truck not connected to, or touching, the trailer.
Just to be sure the Ground is via the wiring and not the hitch plates.
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Old 12-21-2020, 08:01 AM   #44
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If you don't have one, a test light probe is essential.
AutoZone, Advance Auto, Amazon.
I agree, you definitely need one of these test light probes. Will really help run down electrical issues. This is how I figured out my 7 way was the issue. Easy to use.
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Old 12-21-2020, 09:17 AM   #45
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Back to Square 1

Based on what was occurring when I turned on the lights, used the turns signals etc. I was able to determine which wires I had crossed by comparing the Bargman diagram vs. the 'Standard RV' diagram. I rewired this morning and got all the correct functionality. I still however, have no brakes.

Here is a condensed summary, should anyone have any further input:

*Truck - ALWAYS detects trailer, I never get 'Trailer Disconnected' message.
*When brake pedal is held down, I get a single bar on the output that usually drops off after a few seconds.
*Manually squeeze the trigger, output bar fills, but drops off after a few seconds. This usually ends in the 'Trailer Brake Wiring Fault' message.
*During the very brief periods when output bar shows activity, it does feel as if the brakes are activating
*Brakes work fine when breakaway cable is pulled. (This is what prompted the pigtail swap).
*My truck activates the brakes on a buddy's trailer. His truck DOES NOT brake when connected to my trailer.

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Old 12-25-2020, 06:16 AM   #46
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As a follow up to this, after finally getting the umbilical wiring correct, I was still left with no trailer brakes. I ended up isolating the issue by following some advice received on a Ford forum, as it seemed the simplest next step. I cut the brake wires at each wheel and reconnected them one wheel at a time, plugging in the truck and trailer and testing after each reconnection. I had braking on every wheel until #4 was reconnected. Still have to solve that issue (consensus from the Ford guys seem to be the magnet), but thought I'd pass on this straightforward method of isolating the problem. It was easy for someone like me (dummy with a multimeter) to accomplish. Even if I end up taking the trailer in for the final fix, at least I will have braking on one axle (I was advised to disconnect the working brake on the problem axle to avoid any pulling to one side).
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Old 12-25-2020, 06:36 AM   #47
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As a follow up to this, after finally getting the umbilical wiring correct, I was still left with no trailer brakes. I ended up isolating the issue by following some advice received on a Ford forum, as it seemed the simplest next step. I cut the brake wires at each wheel and reconnected them one wheel at a time, plugging in the truck and trailer and testing after each reconnection. I had braking on every wheel until #4 was reconnected. Still have to solve that issue (consensus from the Ford guys seem to be the magnet), but thought I'd pass on this straightforward method of isolating the problem. It was easy for someone like me (dummy with a multimeter) to accomplish. Even if I end up taking the trailer in for the final fix, at least I will have braking on one axle (I was advised to disconnect the working brake on the problem axle to avoid any pulling to one side).
Mark

Thanks for the follow up. That was a clever diagnostic idea I'll have to remember. Please keep us posted on your way to the solution.
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Old 12-25-2020, 09:31 AM   #48
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Why not remove hub on that wheel brake that is causing the fail and look at wiring to magnet and ohm that magnet ...

Most likely wire has a chaffed spot inside going to magnet or the magnet/wires have an internal connection fault right at magnet where wires go into magnet


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Old 12-25-2020, 10:00 AM   #49
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Why not remove hub on that wheel brake that is causing the fail and look at wiring to magnet and ohm that magnet ...


Yep, will probably take the plunge and do that. I have average mechanical skills/aptitude, pretty non-existent electrical skill and have never pulled a hub off before. Have watched it on Youtube as I eventually want to do my own bearing repacking, but in my mind's eye I see springs, clips and other brake parts flying all over the place when I pull it off...lol! I know that's not very likely to happen, but you don't know my luck......
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Old 12-25-2020, 10:16 AM   #50
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You can save yourself a ton of money by repairing yourself.. You will need a rear axle seal for the inner bearing... the seal is easy to pop out and you can inspect, clean and grease inner and outer bearings properly by hand..

https://youtu.be/GnH-h3W9XvI

Dexter Service manual..
https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defa...sn=cfe1e328_42

Watch the video and look in the electric brake section and review it.. then if you feel comfortable get the correct size grease seal for your axle and a new magnet prior to starting work.. Or.. wait on magnet and see what issue is if you have place to leave RV with hub removed if you need to order a magnet
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Old 01-08-2021, 02:15 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by ChuckS View Post
You can save yourself a ton of money by repairing yourself.. You will need a rear axle seal for the inner bearing... the seal is easy to pop out and you can inspect, clean and grease inner and outer bearings properly by hand..

https://youtu.be/GnH-h3W9XvI

Dexter Service manual..
https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defa...sn=cfe1e328_42

Watch the video and look in the electric brake section and review it.. then if you feel comfortable get the correct size grease seal for your axle and a new magnet prior to starting work.. Or.. wait on magnet and see what issue is if you have place to leave RV with hub removed if you need to order a magnet
I reviewed the info, YouTube'd a couple other videos, bought the appropriate magnet and seals I needed, and just completed the job.

When I pulled the hub I found the wiring on the magnet poorly routed. It was resting against some moving parts, causing the insulation on one of the wires on the magnet to be worn away, leaving about an inch of exposed copper to short out. I'm guessing this occurred when I had the axle replacement. I installed a new magnet, repacked the bearing and tested, and I have brakes again! I then went on to repack/reseal the other 3 wheels.

Thanks for the help, Chuck (and everyone else). I am very glad I took the plunge and did the work myself. I got to learn a new and necessary skill and saved a few hundred bucks in the process.

By the way, for those that want to repack their bearings themselves, I highly recommend the Lisle Bearing Packer, it makes short work out of the job.
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