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Old 08-24-2017, 06:02 PM   #21
kfxgreenie
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I was joking, but kind of not joking. Now is the time to sit down with the wife and have a serious conversation. You can take a bath on the truck now, or sacrifice what you want in a travel trailer to "suit" your truck, not enjoy it and then take a bath on both the TT and the Truck in a short amount of time. Take everything into account and think about this long and hard. There are plenty of members on this forum that have "been there done that" learn from them, me included. I haul over my 3/4 ton payload slightly because the horse came before the cart.
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Old 08-24-2017, 06:12 PM   #22
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I used to be over gross, hauled a 36' Jayco fiver with an F250 with bags. Switched to current truck in '08 and I switched to current (smaller/lighter) fiver in 2012.
I see customers that change trailers as often as their clothes. IF you EVER think your going to upgrade, get the tow vehicle that will handle it. I'm on my 4th fifth wheel.
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Old 08-24-2017, 06:19 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyguy66 View Post
Ok any brand/ model suggestions?
Like to haves: in order of importance
Open floor plan
50 amp
Sleeps 6 non bunk
Outdoor kitchen
Fireplace
Electric jack and stabilizers

Of course we want a good quality trailer.
Much appreciated. Great forum.

Many ~~ very many ~~ have the same dream, then buy a bigger truck. My F150 EB max tow pulled a 7000 loaded TT just fine, but the mileage sucked. Bought an F250 to pull the Cougar which was a huge mistake. Should have bought the F350 then to pull the Montana we have now.
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Old 08-25-2017, 04:15 AM   #24
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considering a Couger, how did your 250 do pulling it.. any weight concerns?
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Old 08-25-2017, 06:57 AM   #25
ADQ K9
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I couldn't be happier with my set up, truck is 8500# empty 11,500 GVW Trailer has a GVW of 8800# In theory the trailer will never weigh more than the truck and the tail will never wag the dog.
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Old 08-25-2017, 07:17 AM   #26
mfifield01
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I couldn't be happier with my set up, truck is 8500# empty 11,500 GVW Trailer has a GVW of 8800# In theory the trailer will never weigh more than the truck and the tail will never wag the dog.
That kind of follows my theory on 1/2 ton trucks. Keep it under 6000lbs. My truck weighs 6020lbs without the trailer.
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Old 08-25-2017, 07:58 AM   #27
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A lot depends on how far and often you tow and in what part of the country.

Personally I wouldn't dump $60+K info a Cummins if I were only going to haul under a dozen times a year and no more than a few hundred miles. Which by the way is what I do and my half ton is fine.

I also wouldn't dump $50k into a 5'ver, requiring a bigger truck ($60+K) unless I planned to do some serious road trips.

I can certainly afford to do it all, just doesn't make much sense to me.
.
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Old 08-25-2017, 08:37 AM   #28
Flyguy66
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What is your setup bill-e?
And i appreciate your advice.
I would probably go a dozen times a year and typically under 100 miles.
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Old 08-25-2017, 08:58 AM   #29
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I've pulled trailers all my life with everything from station wagons (remember those?) to 1-tons. Take the advice and get more truck than you think you need; you won't regret it. I tow a 35' Montana with a F350 diesel; it's great but almost maxed out.
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Old 08-25-2017, 10:25 AM   #30
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What is your setup bill-e?
And i appreciate your advice.
I would probably go a dozen times a year and typically under 100 miles.
So my original recommendation was around 6000lbs dry weight max (mine is 6100lbs)

My camper with hitch is 30' which I consider the largest I would want to tow.

We are fans of floorplans with opposing slides and kitchen islands. The central living space is huge.

You haven't clarified the need to sleep six. Is that for 4 kids who will always be with you or just for occasional guests? If it was for the kids then I'd say get more real bunks. My camper sleeps two in the bed and then we can use the couch and dinette for an additional 4 but the problem with that is you can't leave them set up. You have to set them up at night and then close them during the day, would be a real PITA if that was the norm.

Extra sleeping aside, I would go with a free standing dinette verses the bench seat ones. I find dinettes very constricting and would love to have a table and chairs.

50 amps is usually for a second AC or a fireplace. I know the fireplace looks good in the brochures but most folks spend their days outside in front of a campfire. If you like being outside I think you can forego the fireplace and the 50 amp service. The furnace in the camper will very quickly make you feel nice and toasty. Lots of folks use a Little Buddy propane heater for additional heat. My wife sits in front of a quartz heater at home, if I had a fireplace in my camper she would never leave

Speaking of campfires, we carry alone a campfire in a can. Runs on Propane and is good during droughts when they wont let you have a real fire. Also great to sit around on a cool morning having your coffee when you only need it for a little bit before you leave and go sightseeing or whenever starting a fire is a PITA.

Outdoor kitchen...I wanted one and my wife didn't. My son in law has one and we use it a lot....but really we only use the fridge. If you find a nice floorplan with no outdoor kitchen like my camper, they have these things called coolers or even the electric ones I've never seen my kids use the sink. The drawers for cutlery is nice but you could make or buy a portable kitchen box (we tent camped with one for 20 years) and set it on the picnic table to reduce your treks into the camper.

Your current truck has more capacity then mine but it would be nice not to be at the weight limit. My son in law pulled a 35' 9000lb+ camper with his Nissan Titan. Enough power but was hairy on the road whenever there was wind or rain. It also caused premature failure of a number of suspension items. Towing overweight can be done, just not safely in my opinion...I used to worry about my grandkids every time he went out. He now has a Ultralight and no more white knuckles.

Things to consider that add to the GVW of the camper
WD Hitch and bars - 100lbs
Propane- 60lbs
2 Deep Cycle Batteries - 120 LBS
40 gal of fresh water for dry camping - 280lbs
Food
place settings and pots an pans. (in my last camper my wife probably had service for 8, every pot and pan you could imagine. I think it weighed a lot...we are only two

Stuff in passthrough:
4 chairs
folding table
campfire in a can
tool kit
misc trailer stuff like hoses, chocks, sewer connections
garbage can
rug
two tote boxes of stuff

Stuff in the truck for wet camping:
Wife
EZup
Grill and stand
firewood
Dog and parrot


I carry when dry camping (shooting matches):
60lbs of portable solar
100lbs of guns - truck
25lbs Misc shooting stuff - truck
50lbs of ammo = camper
280lbs of water - camper
90lbs of generators - truck
30lbs of gas - truck
Grill 15lbs - Truck (both wet and dry camping)

Not sure I answered your question...shorter and lighter is better in my opinion
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Old 08-25-2017, 11:32 AM   #31
kfxgreenie
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[QUOTE=bill-e;253841

Personally I wouldn't dump $60+K info a Cummins if I were only going to haul under a dozen times a year and no more than a few hundred miles. Which by the way is what I do and my half ton is fine.

.[/QUOTE]

If you don't mid asking how much did you dump into your Eco Diesel, and what kind of options does it have?
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Old 08-25-2017, 11:53 AM   #32
Flyguy66
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Thanks. Really appreciate the detail.
What trailer do you have?
So, payload on my truck is 1640lbs
As I understand it I subtract tongue weight of trailer from this weight and that's people and cargo allowance.
Trailer I'm looking at has 800 lb tongue weight.
Dry weight upper 6k. Tow max on truck is 10,600.
Think I will be ok?
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Old 08-25-2017, 11:55 AM   #33
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Oh and kids will be with us part of the time hence not wanting a bunk
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Old 08-25-2017, 11:59 AM   #34
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Every RAM 1500 EcoDiesel Crew 4x4 I've seen is upwards of $50K for a BignHorn, $55+ for a Laramie and around $60K for a Long Horn. They are priced "right at equal" to a 2500 or 3500 Cummins, at least around here.
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Old 08-25-2017, 12:07 PM   #35
bill-e
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4x4 Laramie Eco, everything including tow and cold weather options except air ride suspension, sunroof and ram boxes and trim details of the Longhorn and Limited. Paid 42k before my trade.

Around here, 2500 Cummins Laramie's are mid 60's. Most 1500's have about $7-9k in discounts/incentives. 2500's about 1.5-3k

Plus 2500's don't get into the thirties for MPG on the highway for the other 325 days a year
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Old 08-25-2017, 12:16 PM   #36
Flyguy66
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What kind of trailer do you have?
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Old 08-25-2017, 12:21 PM   #37
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Old 08-25-2017, 12:58 PM   #38
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...
Around here, 2500 Cummins Laramie's are mid 60's. Most 1500's have about $7-9k in discounts/incentives. 2500's about 1.5-3k

Plus 2500's don't get into the thirties for MPG on the highway for the other 325 days a year
Just the opposite around here. 1500 EcoDiesels are as I stated with a $1500 REBATE. 2500/3500 Cummins diesels, comparably equipped are about $10K more (sticker price) with a $12K rebate, so essentially you can buy a "big Cummins" for the same price (comparably equipped) as a 1500 Diesel.
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Old 08-25-2017, 01:05 PM   #39
bill-e
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Just the opposite around here. 1500 EcoDiesels are as I stated with a $1500 REBATE. 2500/3500 Cummins diesels, comparably equipped are about $10K more (sticker price) with a $12K rebate, so essentially you can buy a "big Cummins" for the same price (comparably equipped) as a 1500 Diesel.
I'm talking about ecodiesel prices back in '15 and current Hemi prices. Right now you cant find an Eco on the lot since the EPA just authorized production again.
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Old 08-25-2017, 01:37 PM   #40
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That's probably why the big difference in rebates. Not enough 1500's and too many 2500/3500's.
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