New to RV Life - What are the options for Boondocking Power?

[HLB1]

I am planning travel next month (June 2022) and I will be staying in a lot next to my sister's house. She has a standard exterior outlet available but that is all. What are the options for Power for the AC, etc? i prefer not to have a loud generator running all the time. I am open to all suggestions.

[wiredgeorge]

Well, not sure if your sister's home is urban or rural but if she only has a 15A outdoor outlet, you will be very limited on what electrical things you can use. I suggest at least a 4KW inverter generator (they tend to be more quiet) or send her some money to put in an RV outlet especially if you plan repeat stays. Since I have no idea whether your camper is 30A or 50A since you don't have a signature, if it is 50A, make sure the electrician knows to wire it specifically for an RV and not a dryer, etc.

[travelin texans]

As George stated you didn't mention what rv you have, amp rating of your rv, how many a/cs on your rv, 15 or 20 amp breaker on the house plug, where your sister lives or how long you'll be there?
Too many questions to give a qualified answer!

[Gkri]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Well, not sure if your sister's home is urban or rural but if she only has a 15A outdoor outlet, you will be very limited on what electrical things you can use. I suggest at least a 4KW inverter generator (they tend to be more quiet) or send her some money to put in an RV outlet especially if you plan repeat stays. Since I have no idea whether your camper is 30A or 50A since you don't have a signature, if it is 50A, make sure the electrician knows to wire it specifically for an RV and not a dryer, etc.

i agree with George. A power hookup will make for better neighbors vs. running a generator and could be less expensive. First we talked to the neighbors to let them know the trailer was temporary. Our Passport is 120 VAC, 30 Amp so I installed a 30-amp breaker in the breaker panel at two of our kids houses and made a temporary hookup with 10-gauge Romex. It gets coiled up and hung on a bracket in the basement when not in use. Check NEC codes, after 100-feet the gauge needs to increase (bigger wire, smaller number). Standard Romex is not outdoor rated but for just a week once in a while, i wasn't worried about the outer case breaking down.

[jxnbbl]

Originally Posted by HLB1

... She has a standard exterior outlet available but that is all. What are the options for Power for the AC, etc?...

You'd have to post the following for a definitive answer:

1. What model of AC in the trailer.
2. Distance between outlet and trailer.
3. Does it have solar?
4. What type of fridge do you have (propane combo or propane).

For my particular situation I have found that on a 15A outlet or my small inverter generator I can run the AC only if I have installed a "softstart" on the AC. My solar panels are enough to run my 12V fridge. I'm going through the motions to be able to run everything BUT the AC without a generator or outlet as we stay at Harvest Host sites and prefer not to run the generator UNLESS we need AC.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by HLB1

I am planning travel next month (June 2022) and I will be staying in a lot next to my sister's house. She has a standard exterior outlet available but that is all. What are the options for Power for the AC, etc? i prefer not to have a loud generator running all the time. I am open to all suggestions.

Given the limited information no you cannot run the a/c. You can run the fridge and converter to charge the battery.

[HLB1]

I appreciate you guys pointing out how little info was in my question and the lack of signature. I will attempt to fix both here. The house is one my sister rents each summer, amps on plug unknown, new outlet no go. I have one AC and I am hoping my signature I just made shows up and provides some pertinent info. I will be on the residential lot next door to the house, maybe 50 ft more or less. Hopefully less. I plan to boondock more and I am looking for guidance.

[jxnbbl]

Originally Posted by HLB1

I appreciate you guys pointing out how little info was in my question and the lack of signature. I will attempt to fix both here. The house is one my sister rents each summer, amps on plug unknown, new outlet no go. I have one AC and I am hoping my signature I just made shows up and provides some pertinent info. I will be on the residential lot next door to the house, maybe 50 ft more or less. Hopefully less. I plan to boondock more and I am looking for guidance.

You have to enter more than - 2018 Keystone Passport Ultra Lite Grand Touring

If it is a 2200 I'm sure you will get different responses than a 3350! Also you night have to go onto the roof and snap a picture of the AC unit.

[roadglide]

I used 4-4-4-8 wire to my 60 amp shop sub panel 40 feet away, to the poll barn I used 8 -10 wire for a 30 amp rv services . I would not not use my welder and the RV AC at the same time. I can tell you right now 15 amp extension cord will burn up or flip a 15 amp breaker at 50 feet running rv ac . I’m an experience Boundocker with complete solar system and generator back up.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by HLB1

I appreciate you guys pointing out how little info was in my question and the lack of signature. I will attempt to fix both here. The house is one my sister rents each summer, amps on plug unknown, new outlet no go. I have one AC and I am hoping my signature I just made shows up and provides some pertinent info. I will be on the residential lot next door to the house, maybe 50 ft more or less. Hopefully less. I plan to boondock more and I am looking for guidance.

Well, you didn't mention if is 30A or 50A but I am guessing 30A. If you want to use the A/C and the house is a rental and you can't install an outlet, your best bet is for a quiet inverter generator or two in parallel. You ain't gonna be running the A/C from a long extension cord from a 15A/110V outlet. When you boondock, you will have to "dump" and that isn't possible unless you have one of those dump dollies or whatever they are called and a water hose. How long you plan on being there?

[HLB1]

30amp RV, one AC

[jxnbbl]

Originally Posted by roadglide

I can tell you right now 15 amp extension cord will burn up or flip a 15 amp breaker at 50 feet running rv ac .

This just isn't true. I actually do run my AC on a 15A outlet. a 15amp cord is true/can't be used...but I do use a 75-100ft 20A generator extension (that is what they usually sell them as). They are costly at probably about $150 now. At the end of this I would use a electrical monitor to sense low volts/amps. Then again, as I said earlier - you might (probably) need to run this with a soft start and make sure nothing else is being used.

Again, need to know the specific AC that you have.

Here is an example of the cord I use - LINK

From the outlet the following are in place:
1. a 15A to 20A cord dogbone (comes with extension cord)
2. the extension cord
3. a 15A to 30A dogbone (actually it use to be 30A...now50A with new trailer)
4. a watch dog "ems"
5. shore power cord

Even with the Champion generator that we run. I know it works with softstart installed on the 15K GE AC and running gasoline. When we had the other trailer it was 30A and a 13K GE AC. We ran the generator on propane. It produces just over 15A on gasoline and just under 14A on propane

[flybouy]

Here's the issue I have with telling someone that's admittedly not savy with anRV or electricity. First off is the distance, 50'. So some might say use a 12 wire gauge or larger extension cord. Wrong! That 15 amp exterior outlet is likely feed with 14 ga romex. How far is the outlet from the breaker? Nobody knows. So now you have the very real possability of turning that 14 guage wire into a heating element.

Just because you have a soft start and never had a problem doesn't mean the OP does. I stand behing my advice given earlier. Don't try out your hosts rental insurance.

[jxnbbl]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Here's the issue I have with telling someone that's admittedly not savy with anRV or electricity. First off is the distance, 50'. So some might say use a 12 wire gauge or larger extension cord. Wrong! That 15 amp exterior outlet is likely feed with 14 ga romex. How far is the outlet from the breaker? Nobody knows. So now you have the very real possability of turning that 14 guage wire into a heating element.

Just because you have a soft start and never had a problem doesn't mean the OP does. I stand behing my advice given earlier. Don't try out your hosts rental insurance.

Agreed, that is why you need to know the AC model. But it is as crazy (to me) to recommend installing a 30A circuit or you can't get 15-20A to a trailer 50ft away you can.

Most of these 13k units run way below 15A and the softstart is needed to ensure that the startup is below 15A. I want to say that my GE 13K AC runtime amps was 10 which should be handled by all the wiring in this circuit. The caveat is you *CAN NOT* run almost anything else in that trailer when the AC is on.

As you said "should" is defined as the wiring run is within code, the breaker/outlet connections are mechanical tight, that is the only draw in the circuit, etc. As that outlet should be able to support the load.

In my previous post (about 15A circuit)...I do know that the wiring supporting this is short and it is a dedicated outlet on the circuit.

[jxnbbl]

I just re-read flybouy's post this morning. He caught on to something I did not. - "Don't try out your hosts rental insurance." As this was injected in a followup response. "The house is one my sister rents each summer, amps on plug unknown, new outlet no go."

Being a landlord...does the landlord know/approve of this setup? For one of my rentals this would be a no-go due to local ordinances...

My replies assumed some basic rules (only use the AC for example). Where I wouldn't have a problem with a family member doing this at my house. I would not allow a tenant to do this unless they paid to upgrade the service outlet at their cost due to liability. To me it isn't something you want to "attempt and ask for forgiveness" or it might be the last summer your sister rents the house.

[Camping family]

Just my humble opinion is have an election run a 30 amp circuit for the camper. That’s the best and safest way to do it. Then no problems no worries.

[skids]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Here's the issue I have with telling someone that's admittedly not savy with anRV or electricity. First off is the distance, 50'. So some might say use a 12 wire gauge or larger extension cord. Wrong! That 15 amp exterior outlet is likely feed with 14 ga romex. How far is the outlet from the breaker? Nobody knows. So now you have the very real possability of turning that 14 guage wire into a heating element.

Just because you have a soft start and never had a problem doesn't mean the OP does. I stand behing my advice given earlier. Don't try out your hosts rental insurance.

Don't expect the breaker box in the house to protect the extension cord. If they are under-sized (gage) or too long the breaker will never sense that.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by skids

Don't expect the breaker box in the house to protect the extension cord. If they are under-sized (gage) or too long the breaker will never sense that.

Yep, In car and truck wiring harnesses they call them "fusible links" and they're about 4" long. Designed to "melt and shut down all power"....

In this situation however, it looks more like a "fire hazard in the making"...

As an example, plugging in a 10 ga extension cord into a 15 amp outlet on the side of a building that's wired to 14 ga ROMEX running to the breaker box 100' away that's protected by a 15 amp breaker and "hoping against hope" that the voltage drop at the trailer won't burn up the air conditioner from being "over amped and under volted".....

To me, sort of like plugging in an electric saw with three or four 18 ga UL approved house extension cords and having someone "feel the wire" as you use the saw until the cord gets hot then take a brake till the brown cord cools down ....... We used to call that "Russian Roulette".....

[solv3nt]

Originally Posted by Gkri

i agree with George. A power hookup will make for better neighbors vs. running a generator and could be less expensive. First we talked to the neighbors to let them know the trailer was temporary. Our Passport is 120 VAC, 30 Amp so I installed a 30-amp breaker in the breaker panel at two of our kids houses and made a temporary hookup with 10-gauge Romex. It gets coiled up and hung on a bracket in the basement when not in use. Check NEC codes, after 100-feet the gauge needs to increase (bigger wire, smaller number). Standard Romex is not outdoor rated but for just a week once in a while, i wasn't worried about the outer case breaking down.

Do not use Romex, it is not rated for physical damage associated with acting as a plug and cord. Also, if it gets wet at all, the water will ruin the entire cable. Romex has a paper cover inside of the wire that will wick water throughout. You can make your own extension cords, but use rated cable for this.

#10 Copper is good for 30A, #8 for 50A.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by solv3nt

Do not use Romex, it is not rated for physical damage associated with acting as a plug and cord. Also, if it gets wet at all, the water will ruin the entire cable. Romex has a paper cover inside of the wire that will wick water throughout. You can make your own extension cords, but use rated cable for this.

#10 Copper is good for 30A, #8 for 50A.

Agree with the above. The other issue is Romex is a " hard wire" intended to be secured in walls and ceilings. Repeatedly "coiling them up" will result in broken conductors.