Furnace trouble

[92xj]

Ugh, I'm so close.
I don't have the excess wiring like others have shown, unless I am missing something. I've gently pulled each end and instant resistance. Right now, I am thinking I will need to cut them and get more wire to create a 12"-24" extension with butt connectors on each end. I will wait to hear from someone before cutting.

I was able to get my phone in there and get a picture of the sticker, so I should be able to order a new sail switch tonight.

Also, should I screw the unit down using the tabs by my finger, on each side. I feel like maybe it should be since I do a ton of gravel road driving and I am sure it bounces around a ton.

[92xj]

this website list this sail switch fits my model number https://rvpartsexpress.com/product/d...-with-bracket/

Using that switch model number and comparing it to the amazon link listed about in the thread, the numbers match, so I will order two of these tonight and will have them delivered in a few days from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-33082...s%2C153&sr=8-2

That gives me a few days to ponder the cutting of the wires to slide the unit out.

[ChuckS]

Yes you will need to cut the four wires.. Remove furnace 12 volt ATC fuse from power center panel first..

Cut Red and Black wires. These are 12 volt DC power and ground to furnace control module

The two Blue wires are the furnace signal wires.. mark one of them with a piece of tape.. cut both of those..

When reconnecting the two Blue wires reconnect the same wire using the previously applied tape you put on one of them so you reconnect to same blue wire..

This is normal to have to cut the four wires as the idiots that install the furnace never consider someone might need to work on the furnace...


NOTE - pay attention to the toggle switch on the top of your furnace.. The small black rocker switch.. make sure it is ON when you reinstall furnace or furnace will NOT RUN

This switch also has a bad habit of tripping from time to time so if you ever have a furnace that wont run the blower motor make sure after checking the fuse that you also recycle this switch off and back on

[ChuckS]

Also once you get the new sail switch installed and reinstall the unit and LP line make sure you use some leaktec or a bottle of water with a dab of dish soap and leak check that LP line after connecting

[92xj]

Roger that

I was impatient and cut the wires last night before anyone posted, but I did tape one of the blues. I’m also thinking about installing a 16ga 4 way connector in case I ever need to pull the unit again. Good idea or just butt connect 24” wire pieces to be able to pull out and leave wired up. I know a connection point is adding a new place of potential failure, but it would be nice to reach in and just unplug the furnace to pull out.

[ChuckS]

If it where my Dometic Atwood furnace and I had it removed to replace the sail switch I would also take a few more minutes and remove the combustion chamber and check its condition and clean it and clean and check the gap on the igniter assy

That way you KNOW things are good...

This is a decent short video showing you how to pull the combustion chamber and check the igniter..

https://youtu.be/AB69oqtSiwc

[92xj]

So, new switch installed, wires extended and unit back in. Hooking up hvac foil hose things… someone please tell me that the small diameter one on the right side isn’t connected to anything and it just heats the underneath area of the camper, please. It pulled up with no hose clamps or anything.

[ChuckS]

Most will have one free hose laying in the basement area and that suffices for your “Heated basement”.. some also ( mine does) have another smaller hose then on your picture that sits directly by the water pump and blows heated air on it

[92xj]

Perfect, this small one must be the “heated basement” as I cannot see any hose clamps marks or even a hose clamp that it would have been attached to.

Got everything buttoned up and the heater did kick on. I’m letting the batteries charge on shore power, then I will disconnect and have it in camp mode and see if it works.

Does the actual furnace outer housing metal get super hot? I extended the wires a good amount and they are touching the sheet metal housing and curious if this could be an issue with hear or not.

[jsb5717]

They are "kind of" insulated so maybe not super hot, but it can get a bit warm. Personally, I wouldn't leave wires directly on the furnace but strap them up out of the way a bit.

[ChuckS]

Trust the furnace is continuing to run good.. Also make sure you leak check the LP connection if yo7 haven’t done so already.

Nice repair work and you have saved yourself a lot of money and wasted t8me at a way overworked and overloaded RV repair center

[92xj]

Thanks, I’ll figure out a way to hold the wires off the metal housing. So far, the furnace has run great on shore power, it’s now off and waiting for the batteries to get charged to unhook from shore power and fire it up in flour normal camping mode to see how it runs. Only thing left is to wait for the rain to stop to silicone the outside exhaust vent. I did take that off to make the install easier. It was not lining up, and instead of getting frustrated and pushing harder, I unscrewed and took off the exhaust port thing. Once the rain stops, I’ll seal it back up.

I’ll recheck the gas connection as well, soapy water spray

[jsb5717]

Sounds like you're in good shape. A sail switch can screw up at any old time so next time this will be much easier.

[Bustinbeards]

Congratulations on the repair. You can just bundle the wires and zip tie them up to the plastic covering the gas line

[92xj]

Here is what I ended up doing. I added enough wire to be able to pull the unit out and stand it up on end to remove/install the sail switch, so no disconnecting next time this happens. I ziptied to the gas line, figured they are rigid enough and the wires aren't heavy enough to affect them. Furnace has been running for a while and cycling like it should.
Thank you all for the help and knowledge.

[Catsailor]

Has anybody found a link to the propane regulator recall and the furnace problem? My friend has the same Passport as I do and we both have a furnace issue and the recalled regulator'

[jsb5717]

Originally Posted by Catsailor

Has anybody found a link to the propane regulator recall and the furnace problem? My friend has the same Passport as I do and we both have a furnace issue and the recalled regulator'

I found this one

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/202...1V708-8349.pdf

[TomTerrific]

After taking the entire thing apart several times, I found a mention of the black resettable fuse.
It couldn't be that easy right?
Replace with a standard fuse. It's been running for a year now.

[Chrispl36]

Originally Posted by Chrispl36

Check the resettable fuse. I had a bad one. You can check by installing a 25 amp auto fuse.

So , I did fix initial issues with replacing the resettable fuse. I still had intermittent issues. Found voltage not flowing through sail switch. order new switch but can't wait for it to arrive. I thought about jumping it out but, it's a safety. I opened the switch up. It did not send to work mechanicly correct. Checked the contact which was very clean. I think the mechanism was binding. Realigned e everything in switch and put back together . It worked switch turns on and off with the air flow. Hopefully this is my last issue with the heat.faulty switch install.