In-Command DC no zone temp displayed - Page 2

ChuckS · 05-31-2021, 05:35 AM

The only way to have a backup for HVAC control if system is In Command is to never have had it run thru in command in first place.

A thermostat would have been wiser option. The A/C control module..one off each unit is controlled via commands sent on the CANBUS circuit and is simply two wires

LHaven · 05-31-2021, 10:14 AM

Using Occam's Razor, I would be much more likely to look for a faulty connection between the zone's thermistor and the clamshell box than to look first at the system as the culprit.

ChuckS · 06-05-2021, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LHaven

Using Occam's Razor, I would be much more likely to look for a faulty connection between the zone's thermistor and the clamshell box than to look first at the system as the culprit.

really.....

crmiller · 07-14-2021, 09:44 AM

Very recently had this very problem on our 3 week old 22MLSWE. Took it out for our shakedown trip and had to disconnect power at least 5 times in a shortened trip of 3 days. Fortunately, had very strong cell service that I could use to diagnose the issue and found someone who mentioned killing all power sources, which reset the InCommand temp to read an actual temperature - only to have it lose it very shortly thereafter.
Took in back to the dealer, and they had it a week and said everything was working fine. Brought it home only to have it continue to lose the temp setting. Got online and started my search. Hope this helps someone. Called ASA as mentioned in this thread at 1-800-688-3135 Opt 1 early from PST to EST and got right in - no hold time! Spoke with a John T. and explained the dilemma. Knew right where to diagnose the problem. It is a failing gateway on the Dometic AC unit on our trailer. At the base of the unit it is a chalkboard eraser sized part. John stated that by continuing to reset it by killing all power, it will eventually totally fail and not respond to any reset. Gave me an ASA incident number and said that the dealer could call ASA and speak with them regarding diagnose if needed.
Went to dealer and gave them info. They were able to locate the part with Keystone. Will take two weeks to get it to N. CA. Personally, I think Keystone needs to take lessons on shipping from Amazon...
I will repost to this thread after the repair is done and give an update.. Hope this helps someone else stuck with this issue

JohnER · 09-05-2021, 09:29 AM

Similar problem as mentioned below. I had to reset the BCM to solve one problem and lost the zone temps in the unit. I tried the disconnect shore and killed the battery, but the solar kept power to the AC units. I ended up disconnecting the positive cables on the battery, with shore and batteries shut off, left it for about 5 minutes, reconnected, and got my temps back. In-Command is great when it works, a real pain when it doesn't, which always seems to happen on a weekend. But I agree with comments on ASA customer Service, they are great, will stay on the line with you until a resolution is reached, have sent me videos for a couple of things to have in your bag.

firestation12 · 09-05-2021, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnER

Similar problem as mentioned below. I had to reset the BCM to solve one problem and lost the zone temps in the unit. I tried the disconnect shore and killed the battery, but the solar kept power to the AC units. I ended up disconnecting the positive cables on the battery, with shore and batteries shut off, left it for about 5 minutes, reconnected, and got my temps back. In-Command is great when it works, a real pain when it doesn't, which always seems to happen on a weekend. But I agree with comments on ASA customer Service, they are great, will stay on the line with you until a resolution is reached, have sent me videos for a couple of things to have in your bag.

JohnER makes a good point. Remove the battery cable, not use the battery kill switch to disconnect the 12 volt power. If your camper has solar, disconnect the solar first, then the battery cable. Reconnect in the reverse order.

crmiller · 09-05-2021, 11:06 AM

Just in the past week have had our trailer returned after repair. Loss of temp issue has almost cleared up. Still took it out and had it 0 degree reading 3x during trip. Will call ASA up again and see what else can be done.. If ASA referred any useful videos, can you link please?

Question to Firehouse12, why not use the kill switch? Have duel 6V batteries and a locking mechanism to secure from theft. It's a pain to undo and re-attach. The kill switch is such an easy solution to reboot the In-Command system.. Reasoning for not using it?

Thanks to you both..

ChuckS · 09-05-2021, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crmiller

Just in the past week have had our trailer returned after repair. Loss of temp issue has almost cleared up. Still took it out and had it 0 degree reading 3x during trip. Will call ASA up again and see what else can be done.. If ASA referred any useful videos, can you link please?

Question to Firehouse12, why not use the kill switch? Have duel 6V batteries and a locking mechanism to secure from theft. It's a pain to undo and re-attach. The kill switch is such an easy solution to reboot the In-Command system.. Reasoning for not using it?

Thanks to you both..

Either the DC (Display Commander) and BCM aren’t seeing the signal sent from the remote temp sensor for that zone because of a latched condition on that zones gateway or the temp sensor is bad

It’s easy to verify if the temp sensor is good or bad by disconnecting its plug at that zone gateway and ohm out the sensor

If sensor reads within correct resistance at a given temp then the issue is the gateway not sending the correct info back down the CANBUS line to the DC and BCM

The ohm reading for the remote sensor should be as follows: (+/- 10 Percent)
55 Degrees – 11667 ohms
60 Degrees – 10212 ohms
65 Degrees – 8959 ohms
70 Degrees – 7876 ohms
75 Degrees – 6939 ohms
80 Degrees – 6126 ohms
85 Degrees – 5418 ohms
90 Degrees – 4802 ohms
95 Degrees – 4264 ohms
100 Degrees – 3793 ohms

firestation12 · 09-05-2021, 02:49 PM

As stated earlier, there are several ways for 12 volts to find its way to various parts of your camper. The kill switch does not always disconnect every electrical component. Disconnecting the ground cable does. When hunting down a problem, don’t leave any stone unturned.

crmiller · 09-15-2021, 02:10 PM

Hate to say it, but I am pushing hard on either Keystone, ASA or Coleman for the solution for this issue! Kinda tired of the 3 companies pointing fingers at each other on this issue. Just had it returned to us yet again for the refrigerator issue and this In Command no Temp issue. Told repair dealer that I was going to take it for a test drive to see if systems were now working. For the In Command Issue, I hooked totally up and had my truck running. Checked the In Command screen and temp read 78 degrees. Shut the system down and proceeded down the freeway 30 minutes South of us. Stopped at a shopping center and fired up the IC system... read (-F) yet again. At least the refrigerator issue seems to be cleared up. Dropped it back again at the dealer.. At this point IDC, they either need to replace the whole system or take it back as a lemon. Due to lack of space at home, have rented a storage space for the trailer. I have paid for 2 months already and the space has never seen the shadow of our rig yet!

Don't think it's right to have to go out and disconnect the battery leads or battery kill switch on a brand new (with paper plates still) 2021 unit to make the HVAC system to work. Very frustrating.

ChuckS · 09-16-2021, 03:20 AM

I am not fond at all of the In Command System nor the Lippert One Control tablet setups in many new RVs ... While the concept is nice and all integrated the reliability of both leaves a lot to be desired...

Also.. if you have an older generation of the In Command system and the Display tablet goes out it is no longer available...

I much prefer the Digital multizone CCC2 thermostat and good old fashioned panel mounted switches inside to control my slides, lights, HVAC, water heater, etc

travelin texans · 09-16-2021, 08:10 AM

As a friend of mine once said "these things are built by the Amish, what do they know about electricity or televisions?".
Just to be clear, yes there are Amish workers at most of the rv assembly plants working right along side of the non Amish workers, they ARE NOT built by Amish, so the "Amish quality" doesn't really pertain to rv quality.

**JRTJH** · 09-16-2021, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travelin texans

As a friend of mine once said "these things are built by the Amish, what do they know about electricity or televisions?".
Just to be clear, yes there are Amish workers at most of the rv assembly plants working right along side of the non Amish workers, they ARE NOT built by Amish, so the "Amish quality" doesn't really pertain to rv quality.

Several years ago I was at the Jayco factory on a "customer tour" and saw two workers on the roof of a trailer before the membrane was installed. They looked to be about 25 or so. One had a beard and white shirt, the other was clean shaven and wearing a baseball cap. I took (my perception) that one was Amish and one wasn't. The young man with the white shirt was showing the other how to "cut" a 1.5" hole in the OSB decking. He took a carpenter's claw hammer and "quickly struck the OSB"... It produced an "instant hole" complete with splinters and rough edges... I heard him explain, "If you do it this way, it's faster than using the hole saw".... So much for "Amish quality"...

**flybouy** · 09-16-2021, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Several years ago I was at the Jayco factory on a "customer tour" and saw two workers on the roof of a trailer before the membrane was installed. They looked to be about 25 or so. One had a beard and white shirt, the other was clean shaven and wearing a baseball cap. I took (my perception) that one was Amish and one wasn't. The young man with the white shirt was showing the other how to "cut" a 1.5" hole in the OSB decking. He took a carpenter's claw hammer and "quickly struck the OSB"... It produced an "instant hole" complete with splinters and rough edges... I heard him explain, "If you do it this way, it's faster than using the hole saw".... So much for "Amish quality"...

A clear case of "I can't see it from my house" attitude.

ironjdf · 12-09-2021, 11:55 AM

Thank you very very much jackinDixe I've been pulling my hair out the last couple days with that same problem. Talking to the dealer going to have to bring it in. Then Wala your technique work for me too. Thanks to everybody that responded to fix this issue, thank you thank you thank you

ironjdf · 12-09-2021, 12:03 PM

Thanks for that information I've been pulling my hair out for the last 2 days and talking to the dealer. I was going to have to bring it in for them to look at it but now after disconnecting the shore power and the battery disconnect off and waiting 30 seconds, actually I waited longer and then turning the battery disconnect back on and plugging shore power back in Walla I show a zone temperature and was able to turn the heat on. Thank you thank you thank you. I'm new to this keystone forum but I can see how it's very helpful. We just purchased our cougar 29 rli November 29th

Av8rMarv · 01-09-2022, 03:57 PM

I’m with you Nuggy, my front zone temperature doesn’t read, I’ve tried all the threads to no success. The rear works great with no issues at this time. I have the 2021 Cougar 355FHS.

Talking with Keystone, or should say, them not talking with me on this warranty anomaly is starting to frustrate me!

SSN Sailor · 03-02-2022, 04:29 AM

Just joined the forum because of the information on this problem. Brand new Cougar 22MLS and have the same problem happening. Looks like it's resolved for now, thanks to the info listed by the members in this thread. Thanks to everyone...

LHaven · 03-02-2022, 04:27 PM

Welcome to the Forum!

Roons22Coach · 03-10-2022, 07:30 PM

To the OP,

I have had success tripping the main breaker in our 2022 25RDS, followed by removing the black 15 amp furnace fuse. If that doesn't work again flip the Main breaker in the panel, remove Furnace fuse again, then pull Zone 1 2 & 3 fuses. Wait 20 seconds and reinstall in reverse order and lastly turn on Main breaker in panel. Turn on the In Command and it should show all zones.

Remember to also from time to time link a Wifi signal to the system and update the software.

Hopefully this works for you. It has worked for us all through the winter since full-time in the camper and has mitigated the problem though a nuisance.

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