What did you do to your RV today?

[Bustinbeards]

Set it up with dual 6V GC batteries and spent the night in it at the camp

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Proud Rebel

I added, wired in, a Delhonest rear view camera. Very simple and straight forward to do. Red to hot, black to black. Now ill be able to catch those people who like to tag along in the wind wash off my trailer.

Like Danny said, those folks behind you aren't "tagging" along behind you. If you tow as most and run maybe 65 and the speed limit is 75/80 and the traffic is running 80, you are an impediment to the flow of traffic. Good? Bad? No, it is what it is. I do the same thing when towing, BUT, those folks behind me aren't tailgating or catching my wind wash; they want by me so they can resume their trip at their desired speed....and there won't be any trooper stopping them for traveling at those speeds. They HAVE to tuck in close to be able to get past 60'+ of RV and TV. I try to move to the right as much as possible to give them a view of the road ahead and get them past me. To be the guy towing an RV, hugging the center stripe, driving 55 with a line of 10 cars behind you isn't a good driving practice.....and these days is downright dangerous. Sorry for the divert; back to mods.

[jxnbbl]

Before trading in my previous trailer, took it out and never had a chance to install it in the new trailer....needed it last night!

[jxnbbl]

Prior to our trip too much to prep the trailer...so didn't get the inverter installed and wired into the electrical system. I installed the 3rd panel. (510W total now) Since we stay at a Harvest Host location here and there and don't want to run the generator for simple things like the TV and coffee maker in the morning, brought along a 1000W converter that I use for tailgating wired with jumper cable clamps.

Inverter goes in before the wash/storage on our return!

Jay

[bigdave_185]

Pardon the maybe silly question but… I inwinterized the trailer and turned on all the water things today!!! No leaks!!!

Also the switch on my panel/fluid level gauge, that’s labeled heater. Is not for heated water tanks, it’s for my water heater. And it works


The question is… does the water heater turn off automatically after the tank is warm or do I need to shut it off when not directly needed?

[Gary R.]

The water heater has a thermostat which will turn it off when the thermostat is satisfied, and turn it on again when the water temp drops.

You probably already know this, but don't run the water heater on gas or electric unless the tank is full of water, or you could damage the internals.

Have fun and take care!

[bigdave_185]

Originally Posted by Gary R.

The water heater has a thermostat which will turn it off when the thermostat is satisfied, and turn it on again when the water temp drops.

You probably already know this, but don't run the water heater on gas or electric unless the tank is full of water, or you could damage the internals.

Have fun and take care!

I did make sure she was full first. Took a min to find the valve under the sink before I fired it on but it was full

Next I need to clean the female threads on the electrode deal because those were nasty!!

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by bigdave_185

I did make sure she was full first. Took a min to find the valve under the sink before I fired it on but it was full

Next I need to clean the female threads on the electrode deal because those were nasty!!

Are you talking about the anode? That's the sacrificial metal rod you remove to drain the Suburban brand water heaters. Easiest way is to buy a 3/4"-14 NPT Pipe Tap and "chase" the threads out with the tap. A light coating of Vaseline or plumbers grease in the flutes of the tap will catch most of the rust the tap breaks loose. Flush water thru the tank and out of the drain then replace the anode with a light wrap of Teflon tape or pipe dope on the anode threads.

[bigdave_185]

I was thinkin the same with a tap, my neighbor plumber is on a cruise and I can’t get into his work truck until he gets back

But reporting back two days with no leaks in the trailer and I need new propane tanks.

[wrvond]

Originally Posted by bigdave_185

>snip> ... and I need new propane tanks.

I'm assuming you are referring to the practice of trading the empty cylinders in for "full" cylinders at WalMart or Dollar General or similar.
You will get a lot more propane for your money if you have your cylinders refilled. Not only does the swap program charge you a premium for the "convenience" but they don't put a true fill in their cylinders either.

[MarkEHansen]

You may also need to trade in your tanks if they expire. They are only good for so long (there is a date code stamped on the collar). After that date, you can no longer have them filled.

https://www.ferrellgas.com/tank-talk...at-to-do-next/

[JRTJH]

I think we're talking about the propane tanks on a 2008 Raptor ???

If so, they are 30 pound tanks, not the 20 pound "underfilled tanks" traded at WalMart, Lowe's and many other locations...

Propane tanks do "age out" and most LPG stations will not refill them after the inspection expiration. On 20 pound tanks, you can trade an expired tank for an "underfilled tank" and pay the $17 for the propane, or you can take your empty tank to a propane tank inspection facility and pay $20 for a inspection and another $12 for a propane refill. That's $32 for 20 pounds of propane vs $17 for 15 pounds of propane...

Seems to be more expensive to keep your old tanks rather than "trade for underfilled ones", but that's up to each owner, whether to wait 2 or 3 days for an inspection, make 2 trips and "save money by getting a complete refill"....

That doesn't, however, work for 30 pound tanks. It's either buy new tanks or pay for the inspection. An inspection certifies the tanks for 5 additional years, so it becomes a more frequent event to "pay for another inspection"...

Anyway, that's the two choices on 30 pound propane tanks: Pay for an inspection or pay for new tanks. I haven't found anybody that will refill an expired tank (even if I wanted to) for several years.... Seems most "play by the rules" these days.....

[jsb5717]

When it’s time to swap outdated tanks I just go to a local gas shop. AirGas or PraxAir or the like. They will simply swap and recertify. Nothing to buy except the gas.

[Tom-67X]

Added a much needed- and curiously absent- mirrored vanity in the bathroom and hung the TP holder/arm. Installed the backup camera last week.

The bathroom in the 3250RL seems to be the least thought-out part of this rig. But, easy to update. Now, where to put a couple towel hooks...

[wrvond]

Originally Posted by Tom-67X

Added a much needed- and curiously absent- mirrored vanity in the bathroom and hung the TP holder/arm. Installed the backup camera last week.

The bathroom in the 3250RL seems to be the least thought-out part of this rig. But, easy to update. Now, where to put a couple towel hooks...

On the back of the door:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...KIKX0DER&psc=1

[Tom-67X]

Originally Posted by wrvond

On the back of the door:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...KIKX0DER&psc=1

Yup! I think you are in my head. Perfect.

[bigdave_185]

No I mean I’m going to go buy new 30 lb tanks. The brass bleed screw is leaking on both my tanks, the valve replacement is just about as much as a new tank. I’ll get the new tank use what propane is left in the old tanks for my bbq and then I’m sure let them sit for years on the side of my house. If I get around to it I’ll have the propane place around the corner get new valves on them but I doubt I’ll get that far anytime soon.

[KarenK]

Originally Posted by jsb5717

When it’s time to swap outdated tanks I just go to a local gas shop. AirGas or PraxAir or the like. They will simply swap and recertify. Nothing to buy except the gas.

Just recertified a 30# tank at Alto Gas for $5. Ace Hardware used to recertify but no longer does. Last trailer had to have it done and doing it again with this one. Believe a tank can be ceritfied 3 times before it has to replaced.

[madweazl]

Busy day! Had Goodyears installed along with a matching rim/tire for the spare and got the Tire Minder hooked up and paired. Whipped up an angled aluminum cradle for the lithium batteries but the strap hasn't arrived yet so they're only semi secure. Also wrestled the Brooklyn mattress in and while I haven't tested it out yet, it sure looks more comfy. Sure seems like I did a lot more than this today but I can't think of anything else LOL.

[madisonjon]

After owning our rv for a year we decided on adding some functional updates. Our last trailer we made aesthetic upgrades (e.g. painting, new drapes), but honestly I felt it was a waste of time and money.

1. Added upgraded struts. We put a new queen mattress, but it was too heavy for the provided struts. Now we can use the storage underneath the mattress. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZA2Y4D
2. Camco handle bar. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012GTVVA
3. Bathroom faucet. Now we can wash our hands as the previous faucet was cramped. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0835KJZ5Y
4. Bunkhouse ladder. For some reason only one side of our triple bunk had steps so we installed one on the other side. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050EIUOY
5. Torklift glow steps. Now no camper shake walking into the camper and our toddler can climb the steps. https://www.etrailer.com/RV-and-Camp...t/TLA8004.html
6. First alert wireless connected smoke and carbon monoxide alarm. If there is a fire or carbon monoxide, all three alarms will go off. Amazon link not working.
7. Sliding door track. The old track was bent and made it hard to open and close the door. Had to cut it to size. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2610/204323544
8. 30 amp conversion kit. No more mouse hole. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NUYZQC