Running fish cooker drone propane supply line

[fonecop1]

On our Laredo 320TG we have a propane connection for the outdoor kitchen stove and one for a grill. I wanted to use one of the connections to run my fish cooker so I don't have to drag an extra propane cylinder with me. I got a quick connect fitting and since the rv already has a regulator I removed the one that was on the fish cooker. When I run the cooker I have to turn the adjustable valve all of the way up and it still doesn't provide a decent flame. I was wondering if the regulator on the rv is set for a lower pressure than the one supplied with the cooker or what the deal was. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks,
Bob in Mo

[chuckster57]

How many BTU's is the fish cooker burner? It's quite possible that the regulator is set for a higher flow than the RV regulator.

We use Manometers to measure LP pressure in inches of water colum. 10"-12" is the ideal. Maybe contact the fryer maker and ask if they know how many inches the regulator is set for.

[sourdough]

Do some checking as Chuckster suggested but I'm not sure the regulator on your RV is going to give you the flow that you need to run a big fish fryer/boiler. If it's supposed to put out a flame like my cookers I'm just thinking that the RV is going to be lower than that.

[JRTJH]

Most fish cookers have "high pressure regulator" that operates at about 10 PSI. The regulator on your trailer operates at 11" WC which is about 0.4 PSI (that's less than 1 PSI). You'll never get enough propane through the trailer system to effectively operate your fish cooker.

DON'T (DO NOT) try to modify your trailer system to meet the needs of your fish cooker by changing out the trailer regulator. If you install a "high pressure regulator" you'll probably destroy your refrigerator, water heater and furnace. The stove burners may or may not function, but if you light one of them and the flame is "to the stove vent" you may burn down your trailer before you can get the burner turned off.

High pressure fish cookers need a separate propane bottle, they aren't designed to operate on the low pressures in an RV gas system.

[chuckster57]

Thanks John for your explanation, I was trying to think of the words but my brain is deep fried this week.

[Johnny's Journey]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

"high pressure regulator"....... operates at about 10 PSI. The regulator on your trailer operates at 11" WC which is about 0.4 PSI (that's less than 1 PSI).

Glad I looked in.

[Bolo4u]

You could make a tee where the tank hose attaches to the inlet side of the RV regulator and run a second quick connect to a spot where you would set up the fryer, then have a hose made to include a quick connect and fryer regulator with a longer hose. That way it's one less tank to lug around and it's a cleaner install


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[chuckster57]

A trip to the RV parts dept. will get you the tank fitting and hose. I have one, don't know why I didn't think of it.....

[Bob Landry]

I run a dual burner CampChef with 30K BTU burners off the trailer's propane supply with no issues. I can burn up a pan of fish in a minute if I'm not careful.
I don't know of any regulators made for home use that are set for anything but 11" WC

[Javi]

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

I run a dual burner CampChef with 30K BTU burners off the trailer's propane supply with no issues. I can burn up a pan of fish in a minute if I'm not careful.
I don't know of any regulators made for home use that are set for anything but 11" WC

Almost all the turkey fryers and Cajun boil pots use a 10 psi regulator.. I have a 20 foot steel braided hose and a 10 psi regulator for my fryer/boiling pot and just open the door to one of the onboard tanks and just use it.. When done put things back..

I use the QD for my grill which is 11 inches

Javi

[Harleydodge]

Originally Posted by Bolo4u

You could make a tee where the tank hose attaches to the inlet side of the RV regulator and run a second quick connect to a spot where you would set up the fryer, then have a hose made to include a quick connect and fryer regulator with a longer hose. That way it's one less tank to lug around and it's a cleaner install


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I personally would want to BE SURE that adding a quick connect BEFORE the regulator would be feasible/safe. I'm not sure plugging a hose into that quick connect at 100-200 PSI would be safe? also, any new connections you add before the regulator would/will have to withstand that pressure as well (more potential for leaks)

IF I were to do this, I would want to add the high pressure regulator to the line BEFORE the new quick connect.

Play safe kids.

[chuckster57]

I have the Tee and hoses. The hoses are clearly imprinted max working pressure 300 PSI.

[Harleydodge]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I have the Tee and hoses. The hoses are clearly imprinted max working pressure 300 PSI.

I'm sure the hoses are.
What I was referring to was plugging a quick connect into the "high" side as was eluded to in the post I quoted above.
Is that how your setup is?

[chuckster57]

No. I don't use the quick connect on my trailer. I have a 3 burner camp chef and the oven and a Coleman stove. I do carry an extra 30# cylinder for that stuff.

[Harleydodge]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

No. I don't use the quick connect on my trailer. I have a 3 burner camp chef and the oven and a Coleman stove. I do carry an extra 30# cylinder for that stuff.

Ok, thanks.
I have edited my original post to highlight the area I thought might be a little "sketchy" :0

[canesfan]

Look for a product called "extend a stay". It's a tee that you attach to your LP tank, attach the pigtail to that, and it leaves you a spot to hook an unregulated hose to your fryer. You can buy the tee alone or with a 12' hose. I have one and they work well.

[JRTJH]

I don't understand enough about LP gas plumbing to explain it fully, but the location of the regulator is probably the most important part of installing a "Tee'd pressure regulator" for a fish fryer.

LP Gas "evaporates" at the top of the tank and that "gas" (not liquid) propane is what is supposed to flow through the lines. On RV's with propane tanks that are installed on opposite sides of the trailer, a "step-down regulator" is used to prevent the high pressure from flowing through the lines. Under some conditions the gas in that "crossover line" can "re-liquefy" in the line and cause the regulator to fail.

If you're going to install a "10PSI regulator" on a line "Tee'd" at that tank, I'd think the regulator should be "at the tank" not "at the fish fryer", so installing a high pressure line on a T at the tank and connecting that to the regulator at the fish fryer will probably cause an unsafe/unreliable condition. There should never be any liquefied propane in the hose. If the hose pressure from the Tee is the same as the pressure in the tank, there's a chance the propane will re-liquefy.

I'd talk to an expert in propane system installations (not necessarily the counter guy at the propane company) and discuss the best way to proceed. Alternatively, as Javi suggested, just disconnect one of the propane tanks on the trailer and install the fish fryer on that tank. When finished, store the fish fryer and reconnect the trailer gas line. With a long enough hose, there's not even a need to remove the propane tank from the trailer storage rack.

[fonecop1]

Thanks for all of the replies. John Landry do you know what kind of regulator is on your RV and is it the factory one? Just wondering how you can run the dual burner with no issues. I would love to use one of those connections but not at the risk of all of my appliances.

[Bob Landry]

I would think the turkey fries and cajun cookers all have the high output regulators since they have high BTU burners. I sim[ly removed the regulator on the camp chef and added a quick connect and it runs fine on my trailer regulated propane supply.