happi-jack bed pins?

dcg9381 · 05-07-2016, 07:23 PM

Those of you with happi-jack beds:
How many of you can get the safety pins in with the bed in the full "up" position?

I'm trying to avoid this sort of thing (taken from another thread):

It was something that I caught during PDI, but the dealer didn't fix it. Basically the bed wouldn't go far enough up to get the pins in, so you had to get on a stool back there, lift the bunk, put the pins in and continue. It's a pain.

I gave the dealer two more chances to fix it - most recent adjustment now includes one side where the pins will go in in the full "up" position, but the other side wont until you let the beds down a bit....

Before I make a further stink (I can live with it as is because I no longer have to use a stool and a stress-position), I want to know if your happi-jack beds have this issue too? It seems to be a bit of a fine adjustment that is a bit of a pain to make.... Perhaps I'm expecting too much here.

ctbruce · 05-08-2016, 03:33 AM

Mine go all the way up. I'm short so I need a stool to comfortably get the pins in. That unfortunately is a carbon-based problem and not a happi-jack one. I have an Impact 312.

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dcg9381 · 05-08-2016, 11:42 AM

Bruce, sounds like your pins go in once the bed is all the way up. Thanks for the reply.

The bed system is the same in the Carbon as it is in the Impact, Raptor, choose-your-brand. The image above was actually due to a motor engaging. Pins would have kept that top bunk up there, but not the lower one.

Just trying to determine if I'm asking too much from my local dealer. I can now get the pins in if I play with the bed position - so that's an improvement.

ctbruce · 05-08-2016, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcg9381

Bruce, sounds like your pins go in once the bed is all the way up. Thanks for the reply.

The bed system is the same in the Carbon as it is in the Impact, Raptor, choose-your-brand. The image above was actually due to a motor engaging. Pins would have kept that top bunk up there, but not the lower one.

Just trying to determine if I'm asking too much from my local dealer. I can now get the pins in if I play with the bed position - so that's an improvement.

Wow. Where's the dislike button. Good luck.

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dcg9381 · 05-08-2016, 03:50 PM

I'm going to need some luck, we've gone round and round on this. They just completed the 3rd attempt. If I ask them to fix it again, it'll be #4.

**chuckster57** · 05-08-2016, 05:44 PM

I have worked on plenty of the happi jac bed systems. It can be a real PITA to get all 4 corners in synch and high enough to make pin insertion easy.

If the repair is done under warranty, only the FIRST repair is covered. Subsequent repairs are on the dealership. I have spent well over the allowed time, and with TONS of pictures and a NOVEL, gotten most of the time covered. There have been times that lifting on the bed after its all the way up is the only way to get the pins in.

canesfan · 05-09-2016, 05:45 AM

I may not be understanding, the pins are there only to keep the top bunk up if you only want to lower the bottom bunk, there are no pins to keep the bottom bunk up, at least not on mine. And mine you do have to lift the top bunk a little to get the pins in, which is very awkward to do with the ramp closed and having to climb on a stool to get up there in between the ramp and the bunks. It would be awkward even if you didn't have to lift the bunk.

dcg9381 · 05-09-2016, 06:25 AM

It's awkward to get the rear pins in with the slope at the rear of the trailer. As long as the trolleys are blocking the pin holes, I can get the pins in. As soon as you have to lift the bed, it goes from awkward to requiring an elevated platform.

You're right to point out that those pins won't hold the lower bunk if you have a two-platform system. I'd just prefer to pin them up.. Too many stories of them coming down.

Chuckster, I appreciate your experience. I'm aware of Keystone's policy to only pay for a repair one time. Dealer hasn't rejected successive repair attempts (yet).

J-Dub34 · 05-17-2016, 06:23 PM

I have to agree. The pins in the rear are a real PITA. I have also found that after raising the entire system, the lower portion begins dropping. Every time, almost 1-1/2". If you have a second person hit the raise button while you are in position, you can shove the pin in quickly and your good. otherwise it's a stool and an extra push. not sure why the assembly drops a little after full raise...

dcg9381 · 05-17-2016, 06:31 PM

Interesting.. mine doesn't drop at all once raised.

J-Dub34 · 05-17-2016, 06:39 PM

Definitely something I will have to address before warranty is up. Right now it is in for more important stuff.....like the brakes that do not work properly and are getting rebuilt. Yes, all four!

J-Dub34 · 05-17-2016, 06:42 PM

If it didn't drop, the pins would go in just fine. you have to watch it real close to see it drop. It is very slow.

dcg9381 · 05-18-2016, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Dub34

If it didn't drop, the pins would go in just fine. you have to watch it real close to see it drop. It is very slow.

There are some limits in the full up position and these need to be set right or the pins catch pressure (from the top or the bottom).

There was talk of this system having constant power for the "brake" - but not sure that makes sense to me. If it required constant power, there would be a draw.. Perhaps the brake is "disengaged" only when the switch is deflected?

canesfan · 05-18-2016, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Dub34

I have to agree. The pins in the rear are a real PITA. I have also found that after raising the entire system, the lower portion begins dropping. Every time, almost 1-1/2". If you have a second person hit the raise button while you are in position, you can shove the pin in quickly and your good. otherwise it's a stool and an extra push. not sure why the assembly drops a little after full raise...

I don't think it's supposed to come down like that. Something isn't right.

dcg9381 · 05-18-2016, 10:30 AM

Per the manual, there is a brake which is disengaged when using the switch:

"Once the control switch is released, the brake sets securing the bed(s) in that position."

There is a brake test on page 11 of the manual:
http://happijac.com/images/pdfs/Bed-...Manual2012.pdf

There also appears to be a brake release on the back of the motor, so might be worth looking at that.

I also found a part that is a "brake adjustment screw" - why that isn't referenced in the manual, dunno... I'll be one of our resident techs know though!

skidooxman · 05-18-2016, 11:26 AM

Does anyone know if I can take out the top bed on my happijack? I dont use it and want the rear AC to get as much air as possible, and expose the speakers. I mean physically it looks like I can pull the pin out and remove the whole bed, but wasnt sure if it will effect the stability of the entire system

dcg9381 · 05-18-2016, 11:58 AM

I've seen that asked several times and the answer I've always read has been "yes" - have not done it myself.

dcg9381 · 06-01-2016, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcg9381

I'm going to need some luck, we've gone round and round on this. They just completed the 3rd attempt. If I ask them to fix it again, it'll be #4.

Well, they've got it adjusted so two pins go in with it all the way up. The other two are blocked, but can be accessed if I move the bed down. This is a big improvement from getting a stool, physically lifting the top bed and inserting pins.

I asked if the pins would go in/out with the bed all the way up. Answer was "yes". Walked service manager out there and had him show me, he couldn't remove two of 'em...

Basically we're at the "they're all like that" point.

Bigger issues to deal with... I can figure out how to level the sides myself.

rick-eureka · 09-08-2016, 09:18 AM

Poor quality control. I have to lift one side up and on the other side-I have to bump it a little. Not worth the effort to drill new holes.

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