Wrong place, but need quick electrical assist

Outbackmel · 02-15-2012, 05:43 PM

Outback Mel is out here in AZ and plugged into RV park 50amp. All has been well UNTIL this evening when power went down. Tripped all switches and re booted 50 amp. After 3 minutes, went dead again.

Used "step down" plug on power cord to RV park power box taking available amps down to 30. Have limited power for the past hour. We need it for the furnace fan tonight, cold nights here. The High Point microwave (which we do not need to use tonight) does not even light up?? Looking for a "reset" of some sort. Manual is zero help.

Park will check 50 amp service tomorrow, so until we can figure out the issue, we are in conservative use mode.

I am thinking it is within our rv, not their box so I am trying to be proactive. Is there like a fuse someplace other than those in the breaker panel box that may have blown and is restricting electrical flow into the RV? I have no clue.

All advice appreciated....

Johnnyfry · 02-15-2012, 06:01 PM

Mel,

The 50 amp service is a 230/120 volt service ( like your house) vs a 120 volt service on the 30 amp. Possibly there is a lifted/loose neutral problem on the 50 amp side. This can raise havoc with the voltages inside the RV and possibly damage appliances in the rig. It could be a problem inside the pedestal or further down the line. Be sure that a competent electrician checks it out before reconnecting to the 50 amp plug.

John

Outbackmel · 02-15-2012, 06:22 PM

So, I should be fine using the 30amp tonight for light use; way under 30 amp draw, correct?

The RV park has a technical group. They had just left for the night when we had this happen....Murphy's Law...you know!!

It's 70 here days and low 40's at night...thus my desire to run the heater. I shut the hot water heater off and will use propane if needed.

f6bits · 02-15-2012, 06:23 PM

Did the microwave light up during those three minutes after you rebooted the 50 amp?

As I recall, that step down adaptor only feeds half of your 50 amp panel. I could be wrong. Is there anything else that’s not getting power?

Outbackmel · 02-15-2012, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdayman

Did the microwave light up during those three minutes after you rebooted the 50 amp?

As I recall, that step down adaptor only feeds half of your 50 amp panel. I could be wrong. Is there anything else that’s not getting power?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Not sure, but I do not believe so. BUT, I was bz switching back to 30amp and could very well have been on that when I figured it was not going to come on.
Everything else, including all outlets, work. I was focusing on the heat since the sun was dropping quickly

Ron · 02-15-2012, 06:32 PM

Mel: I had a converter go out on a brand new trailer after I got it home and it never tripped the breaker, just a thought I'm no electrician but you might want to try to shut off the breaker to the converter in case it is grounded out. Converters will try to reset every 2-3 minutes and that might be causing you the probelm, just my 2 cents worth. We are here in Yuma. yes its chilly at night......Happy Campin...........Ron

Outbackmel · 02-15-2012, 06:54 PM

How would one go about finding this "converter", like is it usually in a compartment or someplace? and would it be making some sort of noise when trying to reset? or "grounded" what's that mean? Not dangerous I hope??

I really do not want to be out there tonight rumagging around when I have no clue what in H*** I would be looking for, listening to/for, disconnecting?? ng ... as long as we are warm and in no danger, tomorrow will bring lots of options, check the box, find the converter, check whatever, maybe a fuse? Worst case sceneario, off to Camping World....UGH...hate that thought.

The good news: Mayo Clinic is right up the road.

Hay, have have humor through this.

Ron · 02-15-2012, 07:11 PM

Mel: The converter power supply is on a breaker in your panel, just shut that breaker off and see if that helps. My converter never made a noise when not working properly or even if is working properly, under load sometimes the cooling fan will come on when it gets warm. If that doesn't help yes probably better off to wait till to get someone to look at it. Ron

chain_dogg · 02-15-2012, 07:54 PM

if you have a battery charger, you can plug that into your neighbors outside plug, hook it up to your battery,s, that will give you lights and heater. And leave all the breakers off till you can get a tech to look at it

Outbackmel · 02-15-2012, 08:00 PM

Thanks. Electrician was here and the problem is NOT at the power box. So, tonight we will be on 30amp and be learning something new tomorrow relative to converter boxes and electrical systems. At least we have TV and heat

Since these RV's have no schematic with them, at least mine does not, I need to find this convertor box and see if there is some sort of fuse in there that is bad. I believe the issue is there as the panel where the breakers and 15amp fuses are seems to be fine. When the power dumped down when plugged into 50amp, nothing transpired inside on the breaker panel. HOWEVER, just as I would do at home, I tripped and reset all switches and reset the GFI in the bathroom. Everything works on 30 amp and NOTHING works when on 50 amp so, deduction leads me to that convertor.

If you, or anyone reading this has an idea where this may be located, would appreciate the tip.

Thanks again for all of the fast input and guidance. Have a good evening.

f6bits · 02-22-2012, 07:51 PM

The portable SurgeGuard is one of the first things I bought for my trailer. I think it was close to $250. The better approach is to get an inline system so it’s closer to your electrical box just in case the problem is with the power cord.

Bob Landry · 02-23-2012, 05:32 AM

This is a good thread and makes a good argument for a couple of things. First, carry a spare shore power cord. They can go bad with constant plugging anf unplugging, especially if you are are not diligent about turning off the breaker at the pesestal when you do it. Wires can come loose at the connector and contacts arc and corrode, givingyou unreliable connections. This is not a big financial issue for the 30A guys compared to the 50 ampers, but you have to weigh that against the likelyhood of being without power(AND air conditioning) in July or August.

The second is the installation of an EMS like Progressive Industries that monitors and protects you against not only voltage spikes, but everything else that can happen to a shore power system. Again, cheap insurance compared to replacing everything in your trailer. And, I'm not talking about the Surge Guards that plug into the pedestals. Not only do they offer limited protection, they are subject to theft and for a little bit more $$$, you can have it all. Get a hard-wired unit. They are easy to install.
I went one step further. I installed mine using male/female interlocking plugs. They were $30 each at Home Depot, but in the event I think my EMS went south, I can remove it, reconnect the plugs, and I'm back on-line.
The other thing is to frequently check your cord and trailer inlet for discoloration caused by heat(caused by bad connections). The Camco cords are hard to check because they are black, but the yellow Marinco cords are easy to check. If you are set up with a detachable power cord be sure to check the inlet on the trailer. Replace anything that is discolored.

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