Is my truck enough ?

[Fkelly530]

I have been searching the site a bit and I am still confused about my answer I will be purchasing a bullet premier 29bhpr and I currently drive a

2015 f150 xlt crew cab 2.7l eco boost

Gvwr 6500lbs
Trans cooler
Trailer brake
Equalizer hitch

The trailer dry weight is 6000lbs
Carrying capacity of 1600lbs
Hitch weight 750lbs
Just want to make sure I’m not getting in over my head

[busterbrown]

It's good you're asking now. I purchased my 7600 lb GVWR 35' Bullet a few years ago and pulled it with a half ton Yukin XL Denali. Payload was 1550. That truck was sold before the start of the next camping season and my 3/4 ton RAM was the appropriate replacement. I officially joined the "been there done that" club. FYI, club membership is not cheap. Others will chime in on the specifics.

[MarkEHansen]

You should always (always) do your calculations based on the GVWR of the trailer, not the dry (shipping) weight. The dry weight is a number used by manufacturers and dealers to try to sucker people into purchasing a trailer that is too much for their truck

The same goes for the tongue weight. The marketing brochure will provide the TW based on the empty trailer (with no propane or batteries, etc.). You should figure your TW based on 15% of the GVWR of the trailer.

Based on the information you provided above, the GVWR of your trailer is 7600 lbs. (which seems light, so you should double-check this using the yellow payload sticker on the left front of your trailer).

Given that, the TW should be figured at 1140 lbs.

Next, take the cargo capacity of your truck (from the yellow payload sticker from the door jamb of the driver's door on the truck). It will say something like "cargo must not exceed ... lbs.". From this payload capacity, you need to be able to deduct all of the following:
- People in the truck
- Cargo in the truck
- Weight of the WD trailer hitch
- TW of the trailer

I don't know the numbers on your truck, but I'm guessing with the above, you'll be over.

Then you should also consider the max combined weight rating (MCWR) - this is the maximum weight you're allowed to have on the road, which combines the full weight of the truck and trailer combined. To get these, you can use the GVWRs of both the truck and trailer, but really you should go to the scales and have them weighed.

When working all these numbers, you need to consider the following:
- Do I have enough truck (engine, transmission, etc.) to pull this load up and over the hills without causing undue stress on the engine/transmission, etc.
- Do I have enough truck (brakes) to stop this whole load in the event the trailer brakes fail without causing undue stress to the truck brakes.
- Do I have enough truck (suspension, tires, etc.) to control the trailer in heavy winds, while passing or being passed by semi trucks - and especially in the event of an emergency maneuver, like dodging a deer which just jump out on the road in front of me or a tire failure (blow-out).

Post back your numbers and let's have a look.

I hope you're asking this before you purchase. You'd be way ahead of us. We're in the "been there" camp. We has a "less than 1 year old" GMC Yukon Denali which we took a serious bath on when we traded it in for our current truck. The Yukon just wasn't enough to safely pull our trailer - even though the numbers looked "okay".

[Logan X]

I’m also in the “been there done that camp.” I started with an F150 ecoboost and upgraded to a F250 powerstroke after the first year. And if I’m not mistaken, my trailer is smaller than yours at 27 feet and 7000lbs GVW.

[sourdough]

Mark has given several criteria you need to take into account when considering using a 1/2 ton truck to pull a trailer of much size. One other aspect I didn't see mentioned is the sheer size of the "sail" you will have behind the truck that will want to manhandle it in winds, passing vehicles/trucks. In this case it is in excess of 34' - a lot more than a 1/2 ton can control easily IMO. And yes, I'm also in the BTDT crowd.

[pdaniel]

I agree somewhat the weights declared by the dealers and manufacturers are to sucker many in. However, I give credit to the manufacturer of my latest 5th wheel which declares up front what the laden weight of the RV should be. And the sales person, first question was, what is your tow vehicle and confirmed that my vehicle could tow the rig.
I will agree many get suckered into a rig that their current equipment cannot tow and belong, as one poster put it, to the "been there done that" club. I also belong to that club.
I cannot stress more to prospective buyers of towables-do your homework and buy a tow vehicle larger than what you need right now-don't live on the edge and think "things will be ok". Do not sucker into the sales pitch and have your tow vehicle capacities in hand.

[avalanchehd]

Not sure any trucks have brakes rated to stop the combined weight, but better to have too much truck than not enough.

[Kanadakid]

This is a good explanation 1

[travelin texans]

IMHO the F150 Eco Boost is definitely not the "tow anything" truck that it's being advertised as. If you have a boat or ATV/snowmobile trailer you want to haul it's a great truck, but a 7-10k rv, not so much.

[Cfitzkp]

Well i just bought a keystone premier 34bi and im towing with a 2018 f150 v8... i guess will see! towed fine first time but time will tell

[08montana]

The BIGGEST problem with your setup will be braking distance. And just one emergency stop will fry your brakes

[MarkEHansen]

Yes, there will be folks who say they tow large trailers with their 1/2-ton trucks. The problem is the numbers/odds are against them. I hate to say it, Cfitzkp, but with the length of your trailer, the odds are most likely against you. Be very careful if you choose to tow that combination. If I were you, I would have a good hard look at your numbers...

[Ken / Claudia]

I like others on here may have watched a Toyota pickup tow a space shuttle just fine. Just because XX truck can tow XX RV should they when there over the payload, tire max wt.s axle ratings GVWR, CGVWR? any or all of the above. That applies to all pickups, but 1/2 tons get beat up the most.

[Cfitzkp]

My gcwr is 14,400 and im roughly at 13,400 im hoping it will be good for a couple years and then upgrade to a f250 wish me luck

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by Cfitzkp

My gcwr is 14,400 and im roughly at 13,400 im hoping it will be good for a couple years and then upgrade to a f250 wish me luck

The other number you need to look at, and it is often overlooked, is your payload capacity. It is located on the yellow and white sticker inside of the drivers door. It says “all of the cargo and occupants shall not exceed xxxxlbs.” My guess is with the size trailer you have, you are probably over on your payload capacity.

If I’m not mistaken, your trailer weighs 9400 lbs loaded, the tongue weight is around 1200 lbs, and it is 38 feet long. I’m not trying to call you out or anything but that is ALOT of trailer for a 1/2 ton truck to handle. I would very seriously consider the negative consequences which could occur from towing a large trailer and being overweight. You should also consider how light your truck is compared to how heavy your trailer is and how long your trailer is compared to the short wheel base of your truck. You are towing a giant sail behind you and I would be concerned that if you had to take any kind of evasive action, you would not be able to control that trailer. Personally, I would not want to put my family or anyone else’s family in danger by towing overloaded. Not to mention the legal and civil liability you could incur if God forbid anything went wrong.

Like I said before, I’m not trying to call you out. I feel strongly enough about the topic to make sure you have the information you need to tow safely.

[Cfitzkp]

Trailer loaded 8000lbs tongue weight 975, truck payload sticker is 1775lbs passengers 400lbs.. i believe im still under all my numbers and wont be going over 60-65... i appreciate all insight and pointers

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by Cfitzkp

Trailer loaded 8000lbs tongue weight 975, truck payload sticker is 1775lbs passengers 400lbs.. i believe im still under all my numbers and wont be going over 60-65... i appreciate all insight and pointers

You said you had a premier 34bi? What I saw on the Keystone website had different numbers than what you gave. Of course I could be wrong, it happens all of the time.

https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-tr...premier/specs/

Edit: you may be looking at the unloaded numbers, you should use the loaded numbers. The hitch weight is generally 12% of the loaded trailer weight or 9400x.12=1128lbs

[Cfitzkp]

Yes thats the one not loading trailer at full capacity. loaded the trailer very light and traveling with empty tanks..

[S&D--Forever]

My father was really good at making bad news seem reasonable. So I will keep my news brief. You can calculate all you want, but your truck will be overloaded from day one. Don’t even consider throwing dirt bike or ATVs on it. Get your tow vehicle situation resolved first. Buy the strongest tow vehicle you can afford first, then consider your trailer. Leave yourself a big fat cushion in case your needs change. People laugh sometimes when they see me towing my Cougar half ton towable with my diesel super duty but it tows my trailer with ease and confidence. Truck first, trailer second!! Good luck.

[pdaniel]

Originally Posted by S&D--Forever

My father was really good at making bad news seem reasonable. So I will keep my news brief. You can calculate all you want, but your truck will be overloaded from day one. Don’t even consider throwing dirt bike or ATVs on it. Get your tow vehicle situation resolved first. Buy the strongest tow vehicle you can afford first, then consider your trailer. Leave yourself a big fat cushion in case your needs change. People laugh sometimes when they see me towing my Cougar half ton towable with my diesel super duty but it tows my trailer with ease and confidence. Truck first, trailer second!! Good luck.

I had the same looks with my Cougar X-lite and a Ram 3500.