need some paint/surface advice

[Pulln]

I have removed all my decals as they were all blown out. It took me a solid two days to get them all off and remove the adhesive and while my motivation level is still high I'd like to clean and polish/wax the exterior.

I've never owned anything like this before and not sure what the exterior walls and nose cap are made and would appreciate any advice you all are willing to share.

I already have the new decals and plan on having them installed by an RV body shop once I am done and want to make sure what ever I do doesn't complicate their installation process.

For those interested in seeing what a naked 09 Fuzion looks like I attached are some pics I took after the decals were removed. The pics were taken before the adhesive was removed.

[chuckster57]

The cleaner the surface, the better adhesion. I would just wash it with a high quality wash, NO wax. Hopefully the body shop uses an additional cleaner like denatured alcohol. We also use a spray cleaner called acrysol, but it's like $27.00/can.

A good wax or protectant like Nu Finish would be a good idea AFTER decals are applied and left alone for a couple of days.

[Bluewater]

If I were you I'd let the body shop do the waxing. They have very good professional waxes and polish plus all the best equipment to apply and polish your rv.

[bsmith0404]

Just clean it with denatured or a 10% solution of alcohol. then wash it with a detergent such as dawn. Do not use a car wash as most of those have a wax in them. You want the surface to be clean and wax free for the details. If you want to get crazy, you could also clay bar it, but I doubt you'd be able to feel your arms when you finished.

Once the decals are done, I'd get a good quality one step wax designed to be put on with a DA. I use Pinnacle XMT 360, Marine 31 All In One Gel Coat Polish and Wax is a good one as well. If you don't have one yet, a Porter Cable 7424xp with some 4" foam pads works great for waxing twice a year.

[Pulln]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

The cleaner the surface, the better adhesion. I would just wash it with a high quality wash, NO wax. Hopefully the body shop uses an additional cleaner like denatured alcohol. We also use a spray cleaner called acrysol, but it's like $27.00/can.

A good wax or protectant like Nu Finish would be a good idea AFTER decals are applied and left alone for a couple of days.

The shop I am going to is top notch but want to give them the best surface I can when I take to them so I may do a final wipe down with denatured alcohol. Appreciate the top on the wax I read about nu finish in another thread as well.

[Pulln]

Originally Posted by Bluewater

If I were you I'd let the body shop do the waxing. They have very good professional waxes and polish plus all the best equipment to apply and polish your rv.

I am definitely considering letting them do the first polish and wax. I doubt they or I will be able to remove any of the discoloration to the surface but they would certainly have a better chance that me. The ghosting from the decals really shows how hard the sun is on these things.

I may buy a cover once it is all done.

[chuckster57]

Regardless what you do, the shop should do another prep as your unit will have been "on the road" even if it's just one block.

[Pulln]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

Just clean it with denatured or a 10% solution of alcohol. then wash it with a detergent such as dawn. Do not use a car wash as most of those have a wax in them. You want the surface to be clean and wax free for the details. If you want to get crazy, you could also clay bar it, but I doubt you'd be able to feel your arms when you finished.

Once the decals are done, I'd get a good quality one step wax designed to be put on with a DA. I use Pinnacle XMT 360, Marine 31 All In One Gel Coat Polish and Wax is a good one as well. If you don't have one yet, a Porter Cable 7424xp with some 4" foam pads works great for waxing twice a year.

I love doing clay bar on my motorcycle, car and truck and would really love to get a couple of bars and go to town on this monster but like you said I'd likely lose feeling in my arms and have to sleep in my camper at the storage lot til the sensation comes back.

I do not have a buffer yet and am glad you mentioned the porter and the wax products.

So it sounds like i should just give them the camper with a clean surface and no wax if I want this done right. So I am going to give them a call tomorrow to get the ball rolling.

[Pulln]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Regardless what you do, the shop should do another prep as your unit will have been "on the road" even if it's just one block.

yeah very good point and given the quality stuff I have seen at their shop I am sure they will.

I'd do the decals myself but I am afraid that I will dork that job up.

[Pulln]

I am gonna hijack my own thread for a minute.

So the clear coat on my wheels have seen far better days. Do you all know of some good products for removing the clear coat? I may try to find a wheel repair guy to get a quote on cleaning them up but afraid of what I might here when they give me the quote.

[chuckster57]

I bead blast and powder coat them. If the clear is peeling, the finish will show a line. About the only products I know of to remove the rest are strippers that may stain the rims. That's why I strip, bead blast and then powder coat.

Someone else might have a different idea.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I bead blast and powder coat them. If the clear is peeling, the finish will show a line. About the only products I know of to remove the rest are strippers that may stain the rims. That's why I strip, bead blast and then powder coat.

Someone else might have a different idea.

Agree, you can get some really nice finishes and colors with powder coat. Can probably get a nice custom design that will accent your RV nicely. I have gone to a softer media blast like walnut shells. It's less harsh and doesn't leave an etch like some other materials.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by Pulln

I do not have a buffer yet and am glad you mentioned the porter and the wax products.

The PC is a nice low price unit that is great for people who don't do a lot of polishing. There are several other units out there that are nice as well, Griots and Meguiars are a couple. Flex is another great polisher, but it is pricey and a bit heavier. I have a Flex and a PC 7424xp. I love the Flex especially when working a large area such as the RV or a large auto panel like the hood/door. I run 6" pads on the Flex, the PC is not as powerful and the 6" pad will stop the DA quite often, that's why I recommend a 4" pad on it. If you get several orange foam pads you can get the RV done in a day with a nice one step (all in one) product. BTW, a DA polisher is completely safe. The dual action prevents heat build up which is what causes damage when working with a rotary polisher. If you go with the PC, it is IMPOSSIBLE to cause damage to finish from the polisher. I recommend going to autogeek.com and watching some of Mikes videos. If you really want to keep your RV looking good and wax it a couple time per year, you will definitely want a polisher. And yes you can wax over the decals and it will help protect them.

[BOWWOW]

I'm just curious because I am have the same decal issue, what assures you that the new decals will not fail and have the same shortcoming as the originals? Are you having a clear coat put on them or something to keep the edges down?

[2011 keystone]

Originally Posted by BOWWOW

I'm just curious because I am have the same decal issue, what assures you that the new decals will not fail and have the same shortcoming as the originals? Are you having a clear coat put on them or something to keep the edges down?

It seems to me like there sre only two kinds of decals. Just like concrete.
those that have cracked and those that are going to.
But with decals the more you clean them and the better wax/polish you use on them will prolong there life.

[BOWWOW]

Originally Posted by 2011 keystone

It seems to me like there sre only two kinds of decals. Just like concrete.
those that have cracked and those that are going to.
But with decals the more you clean them and the better wax/polish you use on them will prolong there life.

I agree! When I am finished taking mine off I will probably leave them off and just enjoy camping in the big white mint instead of wax on wax off, it makes my coozie shake.

[outwest]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

The PC is a nice low price unit that is great for people who don't do a lot of polishing. There are several other units out there that are nice as well, Griots and Meguiars are a couple. Flex is another great polisher, but it is pricey and a bit heavier. I have a Flex and a PC 7424xp. I love the Flex especially when working a large area such as the RV or a large auto panel like the hood/door. I run 6" pads on the Flex, the PC is not as powerful and the 6" pad will stop the DA quite often, that's why I recommend a 4" pad on it. If you get several orange foam pads you can get the RV done in a day with a nice one step (all in one) product. BTW, a DA polisher is completely safe. The dual action prevents heat build up which is what causes damage when working with a rotary polisher. If you go with the PC, it is IMPOSSIBLE to cause damage to finish from the polisher. I recommend going to autogeek.com and watching some of Mikes videos. If you really want to keep your RV looking good and wax it a couple time per year, you will definitely want a polisher. And yes you can wax over the decals and it will help protect them.

I've been interested in trying an orbital polisher (hand polishing and waxing is a pain!), but have always been nervous about it because of all of the horror stories my father pounded into my head when I was a teen (how they only cause damage - whether it be from burning the paint or even just leaving swirled scratches). Your post convinced me to give it a go and got the Griot's 6" on its way. Thanks

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by outwest

I've been interested in trying an orbital polisher (hand polishing and waxing is a pain!), but have always been nervous about it because of all of the horror stories my father pounded into my head when I was a teen (how they only cause damage - whether it be from burning the paint or even just leaving swirled scratches). Your post convinced me to give it a go and got the Griot's 6" on its way. Thanks

You will be happy you bought it. The one thing that I cannot stress enough with the foam pads, you cannot have enough of them. I use about 10 to polish the entire camper. Secondly, do not use too much product (polish), Once the pad gets "loaded up" it loses it's effectiveness. It is a combination of the pad and the product that does the work. As mentioned earlier, I like a one step or all in one product with an orange pad for doing the RV...just too much surface area to do anything else. With cars I use different pads, polishes, and multiple steps. My personal preference on pads are the Lake Country CCS pads. Also a pad cleaning brush is nice to have around.

One warning....it is addictive and won't be long before you start working on your cars/truck. You should see the results of the 4 step polish/jeweling job I did on the DW's Camaro...amazing how much a stock paint job can shine when there are NO swirls/scratches in it. Of course that was after 4 steps and 18 hours of polishing. Feel free to post any questions or PM me.

[outwest]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

You will be happy you bought it. The one thing that I cannot stress enough with the foam pads, you cannot have enough of them. I use about 10 to polish the entire camper. Secondly, do not use too much product (polish), Once the pad gets "loaded up" it loses it's effectiveness. It is a combination of the pad and the product that does the work. As mentioned earlier, I like a one step or all in one product with an orange pad for doing the RV...just too much surface area to do anything else. With cars I use different pads, polishes, and multiple steps. My personal preference on pads are the Lake Country CCS pads. Also a pad cleaning brush is nice to have around.

One warning....it is addictive and won't be long before you start working on your cars/truck. You should see the results of the 4 step polish/jeweling job I did on the DW's Camaro...amazing how much a stock paint job can shine when there are NO swirls/scratches in it. Of course that was after 4 steps and 18 hours of polishing. Feel free to post any questions or PM me.

I got the Griot's Ultimate Kit w/25' cord to start me off. I didn't order any extra pads or cloths yet, partly because I wasn't sure how many I might need for the RV. Thanks for letting me know how many it takes for your rig; it helps to give me a better idea of how many I'll need. I'll definitely check out the Lake Country pads. I figured I'd start with a smaller project (one of the cars) first, before I use it on the trailer. I appreciate the offer of help w/ any questions. Thank you.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by outwest

I got the Griot's Ultimate Kit w/25' cord to start me off. I didn't order any extra pads or cloths yet, partly because I wasn't sure how many I might need for the RV. Thanks for letting me know how many it takes for your rig; it helps to give me a better idea of how many I'll need. I'll definitely check out the Lake Country pads. I figured I'd start with a smaller project (one of the cars) first, before I use it on the trailer. I appreciate the offer of help w/ any questions. Thank you.

That's a nice kit. Cars typically take 4-6 of each color pad (except red, only 1 since it's just applying wax). Unless your paint is really bad, you should not need the polish 1. I'd start with the polish 2 and orange pad. If you can get the swirls/scratches out with that move to the polish 3 with the black pad and then finally put some wax on with the red. I love Black Fire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba. The reason to stay away from then polish 1, when you polish you are removing microscopic layers of clear coat to remove scratches. You want to remove the least amount as possible to get the desired result. So start with a lesser aggressive product and move up only if needed. The purpose for the second step with the 3 and black is to remove microscopic scratches left behind from the 2. You cannot see them with the naked eye, but they leave a bit of a haze and prevent a true shine. Finally the wax is a protection layer that bends the light to give a better shine. Again, I only use these steps on cars, not worth it on an RV, the difference isn't worth the work. I guess we kind of hijacked this thread, but it is about finishing/waxing the RV.