Scissor Stabilizing Jacks

[sourdough]

^^^^The above has always been an issue for us with the lego blocks. The hollowed out areas will sink into the ground once you get inside the trailer. I used a section of 2x12 but the cutting board solution sounds much lighter.

[JSisemoreTX]

I use x-chocks on the tires, standard wheel chocks for the tires. For stabilizer jacks I like to use blocks so the stabilizers have less distance to travel. The end result is that they are wider, which is more stabilizing (side to side) than if they go all the way to the ground. Make sense?

[TinaMBee1]

Originally Posted by pikespeakviewer

This summer we've started using cribbing as well. Prior to this we used a block that was about 2" thick and then extended our scissor jacks until they reached the wood. We never really got rid of the shaking when the kids moved in their bunks.

With the cribbing (exact height depends on the site), we extend the jacks much less (about 15") and the shaking has been drastically reduced. I read somewhere that extending between 13-23" is ideal? Hopefully this is right.

what is cribbing?

[Khorsam]

I had been using those plastic blocks but I found I was not getting the stability I wanted. So, I built my own. Cost me about $60 all in, and I have 6 solid stabilizer blocks.

So much better when I have a solid base.

[Beemer Phil]

Agree with above post that the less that the scissor jacks are extended the more stable they are. I don’t think you’ll ever get rid of all the shake unless the whole dam thing is up on cement blocks and the wheels are off!

[rodgebone]

Originally Posted by JSisemoreTX

I use x-chocks on the tires, standard wheel chocks for the tires. For stabilizer jacks I like to use blocks so the stabilizers have less distance to travel. The end result is that they are wider, which is more stabilizing (side to side) than if they go all the way to the ground. Make sense?

Also my method. x-chocks are a must for both stabilizing AND hitching/unhitching - don't trust regular chocks alone as they can slip'n slide (especially on concrete). I will use anything that doesn't dig into the ground to reduce the scissor jack's extension length (wood blocks, chocks and Andersen levellers/jacks turned sideways, etc, etc, etc). I've even used a chunk of firewood. anything to keep the scissors up high helps.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by TinaMBee1

what is cribbing?

Stacking wood like Jenga blocks to create a piling for a stabilizer jack to set on.

[crowbar]

Since I flipped the axles to gain more height, I use a 6x6 block under each stabilizer so I don't have to extend them too much. I run them down as much as my wimpy portable drill will take them and then go around with the supplied wrench for a turn to make them tight. Works good for me.

[dutchmensport]

I have always used wood under my jacks and tires. Sometimes the campsite pad is so unlevel, you'd have to have $500 worth of Lego Blocks to form a stack high enough. Solid lumber is just that ... solid ... and the shorter the jacks have to extend, the less shake there is in the camper. I've been using these same blocks for the past 20 years. I just keep painting them. They came from a support beam out of a 100 year old barn that was being torn down. The wood was so hard, I had to cut them to length using a chain saw. But I'll never part with them. So solid (and heavy):


Previous camper:




Current camper. Even though it has the 6 point leveling system, I still use the blocks under the jacks. Higher stack of solid lumber and shorter jack extention = always better!

[jimborokz]

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

I have always used wood under my jacks and tires. Sometimes the campsite pad is so unlevel, you'd have to have $500 worth of Lego Blocks to form a stack high enough. Solid lumber is just that ... solid ... and the shorter the jacks have to extend, the less shake there is in the camper. I've been using these same blocks for the past 20 years. I just keep painting them. They came from a support beam out of a 100 year old barn that was being torn down. The wood was so hard, I had to cut them to length using a chain saw. But I'll never part with them. So solid (and heavy):


Previous camper:




Current camper. Even though it has the 6 point leveling system, I still use the blocks under the jacks. Higher stack of solid lumber and shorter jack extention = always better!

That first step on the second picture is a doozy. What are you using to support the MorRyde step beyond the leg?

[retiredusps69]

My son welded another set of stabilizers just ahead of the front axle, really stopped the rocking out almost like it was set on cinder blocks.

[robbie]

2020 rv with rusting stablizing jacks

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by robbie

2020 rv with rusting stablizing jacks

Did you hit submit reply before finishing a question?

[Socaldave]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Did you hit submit reply before finishing a question?

Seemed like more of a statement...

[flybouy]

The "Statement" is replying to a year old thread and has no punctuation. Very suspect as many spammers will do this.

[Cyndrew0607]

Originally Posted by Gobirds38

I am having problems finding X chocks for a spread axle TT.

BAL has a set for up to 17" separation. # 28014.. Just throwing it out there....

[Jimisand]

Hi,
I am new here... and to the whole trailer life.

We have a 28' Springdale with scissor jacks. I noticed at the campground we just moved the trailer to, that a lot of people are using cinder blocks, then a piece of wood (looks like 2x6) under the jacks.

Is that an okay thing to do? I just had to Google lego blocks, as I didn't what they were. I see how they work, good idea.

Of the two options, which one would work best? The ground is dirt.

Thanks for your help,
Jimisand

[Canonman]

WELCOME to the forum!
I'd say it depends on how far you need to extend the jacks. The bricks will take up more of the height difference but if that's not an issue then the "Leggo" blocks will work just fine. I use the Leggo's. they're lighter and provide more flexibility. I have two sets of them but rarely need more than blocks contained in one set.

[NH_Bulldog]

We are always on the move and don’t want to lug/haul concrete blocks everywhere we go, so we have 2 stacks of “Lego” blocks. But if we were at a seasonal site I would definitely use the concrete blocks with a 2x6. The blocks have more ground contact area and also the height means that the jacks don’t have to extend as far. The shorter the distance that the jacks have to extend, the more stable you will be

[Jimisand]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

We are always on the move and don’t want to lug/haul concrete blocks everywhere we go, so we have 2 stacks of “Lego” blocks. But if we were at a seasonal site I would definitely use the concrete blocks with a 2x6. The blocks have more ground contact area and also the height means that the jacks don’t have to extend as far. The shorter the distance that the jacks have to extend, the more stable you will be

Yes, it is seasonal. I will have to measure the distance from the jack to the ground. If need be, is okay to stack to blocks up, or does that compromise the stability?

Thank you,
Jimisand